DUSTIN WHIPPLE SAID:"the factory drive shaft speed is very critical and can reach ...
DUSTIN WHIPPLE SAID:"the factory drive shaft speed is very critical and can reach ...
...a dangerous point when exceeding 99mph"
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hlight=whipple
Drive-shaft good up to ONLY 99mph ??? I think that they would be good for at least 130mph ??? 99mph only ???
Do you guys agree with that ???? If so, what kind of drive-shaft will be good for a 4x4 truck with the 5.4 3V engine ???
Thanks a lot for your time guys.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hlight=whipple
Drive-shaft good up to ONLY 99mph ??? I think that they would be good for at least 130mph ??? 99mph only ???
Do you guys agree with that ???? If so, what kind of drive-shaft will be good for a 4x4 truck with the 5.4 3V engine ???
Thanks a lot for your time guys.
Ok, mine's an 03 HD but it goes a lot faster than 99 mph
The Lightning is good for 140+ too.
Is there some kind of major difference between the 4th gear ratio on the 03 to 05 models?
The Lightning is good for 140+ too.
Is there some kind of major difference between the 4th gear ratio on the 03 to 05 models?
Originally Posted by EnglishAdam
Ok, mine's an 03 HD but it goes a lot faster than 99 mph
The Lightning is good for 140+ too.
Is there some kind of major difference between the 4th gear ratio on the 03 to 05 models?

The Lightning is good for 140+ too.
Is there some kind of major difference between the 4th gear ratio on the 03 to 05 models?

I tend to think that Dustin's statement is motivated by the fact that "Ford Racing" is stamped on the side of the supercharger. The driveshaft can withstand more than 99mph, but isn't designed for that.
I'm glad you posted this because I am searching for a stronger driveshaft, or looking for ideas on how to upgrade the current one with either end loops or beefier U-Joints. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm glad you posted this because I am searching for a stronger driveshaft, or looking for ideas on how to upgrade the current one with either end loops or beefier U-Joints. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Originally Posted by 05RoushMarkLT
I tend to think that Dustin's statement is motivated by the fact that "Ford Racing" is stamped on the side of the supercharger. The driveshaft can withstand more than 99mph, but isn't designed for that.
I'm glad you posted this because I am searching for a stronger driveshaft, or looking for ideas on how to upgrade the current one with either end loops or beefier U-Joints. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm glad you posted this because I am searching for a stronger driveshaft, or looking for ideas on how to upgrade the current one with either end loops or beefier U-Joints. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
and get rid of the Whipple tune.
He also will be installing 48lph injectors, saleen fuel pump(Fatherford has one, good for up to 750hp) and a 10psi pulley. I hope someone can give us any good ideas about the drive-shaft.
I cant see how anybody could have a speed limet on a superchared truck.Thats just BS.
My truck is set at 5800 RPMs and I think the speeds set at 150 MPH
As for the driveshaft,,I had a custom 2 peace one made up just like the Harley trucks.Had to have a new one when I took out the T case.
Phil
My truck is set at 5800 RPMs and I think the speeds set at 150 MPH
As for the driveshaft,,I had a custom 2 peace one made up just like the Harley trucks.Had to have a new one when I took out the T case.
Phil
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Originally Posted by phil6608
I cant see how anybody could have a speed limet on a superchared truck.Thats just BS.
My truck is set at 5800 RPMs and I think the speeds set at 150 MPH
As for the driveshaft,,I had a custom 2 peace one made up just like the Harley trucks.Had to have a new one when I took out the T case.
Phil
My truck is set at 5800 RPMs and I think the speeds set at 150 MPH
As for the driveshaft,,I had a custom 2 peace one made up just like the Harley trucks.Had to have a new one when I took out the T case.
Phil
Last edited by rafa26; Mar 18, 2006 at 05:26 PM.
Don't need to replace the driveshaft. Should get a bolt-in driveshaft loop though for safety (and legality at the track). I don't care what any company says as far as their tuning is concerned. I'd use a canned tune just for validation that everything is installed correctly then driving to the nearest, well reputed shop for a custom tune. My truck may be a 2000 F-150 with a 5.4L 2V and there are a million of them on the road but that doesn't mean a one-size-fits-all tune is the best for it. You want to get the most out of your particular combo...pick up a book and start reading. Go to forums such as modulardepot.com and modularfords.com and become a search button *****. Read anything and everything you can about these motors and find out who can tune them. Then learn from those people. Finally, do what I am about to start doing and start tuning your own vehicle if you feel up to it.
Originally Posted by justjames80
Don't need to replace the driveshaft. Should get a bolt-in driveshaft loop though for safety (and legality at the track). I don't care what any company says as far as their tuning is concerned. I'd use a canned tune just for validation that everything is installed correctly then driving to the nearest, well reputed shop for a custom tune. My truck may be a 2000 F-150 with a 5.4L 2V and there are a million of them on the road but that doesn't mean a one-size-fits-all tune is the best for it. You want to get the most out of your particular combo...pick up a book and start reading. Go to forums such as modulardepot.com and modularfords.com and become a search button *****. Read anything and everything you can about these motors and find out who can tune them. Then learn from those people. Finally, do what I am about to start doing and start tuning your own vehicle if you feel up to it.
I am not concerned about the tune, Jdm or Troyer can do that for me anytime, i iniciated the thread to get information about the DRIVE-SHAFT man.
I have been building driveshafts for more than 30 years and though I am certainly not the last word, I have built some Pro-Stock shafts that ran in the sevens.
I can only speak with experience for the "Old" (pre 2005) trucks but I strongly suspect that most of this will hold true for the newer ones.
The Yokes, fitting and U-joints are all Spicer "1350" series which is the heaviest available for any racecar save, top fuel or funny car. Most of the really high powered door slammers buy their yokes from the likes of Mark Williams who makes them from better material. However, bear in mind that we are talking dropping the hammer on a 500 ci engine at 8000 rpm, a little more severe than a launch from one of our trucks.
Here is my take on the driveshafts in our truck. The OE Lightning shaft which is made from aluminum is marginal. It doesn't take much wheel hop to destroy it. The Supercab trucks have a similar driveshaft but longer and therefore even more fragile. All 4x4 trucks have smaller, shorter driveshafts but the fittings on the rear one are the same 1350 series. The Harley and other Crew Cab trucks have a two-piece unit even though they have the same wheelbase as a Supercab. This is to reduce vibrations and make for a smoother ride for the rear seat passengers.
When my truck was new, it had a slight vibration from the driveshaft so I had the dealer replace it with one that was even worse. I had them put my original back in and balanced it myself. When it was about a year old, I swapped the entire powertrain to that from a Harley and since the driveshaft had to be shorter due to the transmission swap, I built my own.
Now here is the important part: I used a tube that was 3.500" O.D. x .095" wall, same as would go in a Pro Stocker today if they weren't using Carbon Fiber. Additionally, due to the length, I very carefully straightened the tube before assembly and welding. I don't have delusions of horsepower grandeur but a PS drive shaft is about 40" long, mine is a whole bunch longer and is therefore more prone to becoming "banana shaped" under extreme load. My truck is by no means the most powerful (only 492 so far) but I don't think my driveshaft is going to give up the ghost.
Probably more important than a replacement driveshaft will be a decent set of traction bars. Wheel hop is the real concern.
I can only speak with experience for the "Old" (pre 2005) trucks but I strongly suspect that most of this will hold true for the newer ones.
The Yokes, fitting and U-joints are all Spicer "1350" series which is the heaviest available for any racecar save, top fuel or funny car. Most of the really high powered door slammers buy their yokes from the likes of Mark Williams who makes them from better material. However, bear in mind that we are talking dropping the hammer on a 500 ci engine at 8000 rpm, a little more severe than a launch from one of our trucks.
Here is my take on the driveshafts in our truck. The OE Lightning shaft which is made from aluminum is marginal. It doesn't take much wheel hop to destroy it. The Supercab trucks have a similar driveshaft but longer and therefore even more fragile. All 4x4 trucks have smaller, shorter driveshafts but the fittings on the rear one are the same 1350 series. The Harley and other Crew Cab trucks have a two-piece unit even though they have the same wheelbase as a Supercab. This is to reduce vibrations and make for a smoother ride for the rear seat passengers.
When my truck was new, it had a slight vibration from the driveshaft so I had the dealer replace it with one that was even worse. I had them put my original back in and balanced it myself. When it was about a year old, I swapped the entire powertrain to that from a Harley and since the driveshaft had to be shorter due to the transmission swap, I built my own.
Now here is the important part: I used a tube that was 3.500" O.D. x .095" wall, same as would go in a Pro Stocker today if they weren't using Carbon Fiber. Additionally, due to the length, I very carefully straightened the tube before assembly and welding. I don't have delusions of horsepower grandeur but a PS drive shaft is about 40" long, mine is a whole bunch longer and is therefore more prone to becoming "banana shaped" under extreme load. My truck is by no means the most powerful (only 492 so far) but I don't think my driveshaft is going to give up the ghost.
Probably more important than a replacement driveshaft will be a decent set of traction bars. Wheel hop is the real concern.
Last edited by madferraristi; Mar 18, 2006 at 09:54 PM.
madferrari, thanks for the insight. For us that aren't knowledgable on what can be done to strengthen the driveshaft, what are our basic options? I'm getting a rare small clunk noise, and I'm pretty sure it is the U-joints, so I'm looking into getting them fixed with either a new driveshaft, or strengthening the U-joint and having the loops installed. Any recomendations on what I should look for or ask a driveline shop?
Originally Posted by 05RoushMarkLT
Any recomendations on what I should look for or ask a driveline shop?
Originally Posted by ONELOWF
05Rousch - If you are still in Las Veags, try Driveline Service of Las Vegas at 702- 876-3100. They have done a few things for me , and are first rate.
Originally Posted by rafa26
I think you didn't read the thread TITLE...
I am not concerned about the tune, Jdm or Troyer can do that for me anytime, i iniciated the thread to get information about the DRIVE-SHAFT man.
I am not concerned about the tune, Jdm or Troyer can do that for me anytime, i iniciated the thread to get information about the DRIVE-SHAFT man.
And if you read my first two sentences you'd see what my opinion was as far as the driveshaft is concerned. The rest was for those who where going on about the 99mph limiter....man.



