Whipple 30psi Built ShortBlock good to 700rwhp ?
Whipple 30psi Built ShortBlock good to 700rwhp ?
Is it possible to buy and install a built short block good to up to 700rwhp with around $5000,00 ?? If so tell me where... I have a Mark LT 5.4 3v, 24 inch wheels, toyo proxes 285/40/24 , 32.9" overhall tire height. Just installed 4.56 Precision gears. I will receive my Whipple S/C till the end of the month so i am in a hurry to transplant the engine, built transmission prior to the Whipple install, i am planning to have 2 tunes one for 25psi and other to 30psi. Whipple claims that the W140AX S/C can go up to 30 psi and i wanna pay to see it but in a safe way , i don't want to take any risk of blowing up my engine because the project will be expensive.
JDM in New Jersey offered me a brand new block with a steel forged crank, manley H beam rods, manley pistons, arp hardware, blue printed and balanced good for up to 700rwhp, a few other misc pieces to complete the tranplant for $6000 between shortblock, misc parts and labor.
Does anyone can beat JDM price with the same quality parts and labor ??
Thanks a lot guys.
JDM in New Jersey offered me a brand new block with a steel forged crank, manley H beam rods, manley pistons, arp hardware, blue printed and balanced good for up to 700rwhp, a few other misc pieces to complete the tranplant for $6000 between shortblock, misc parts and labor.
Does anyone can beat JDM price with the same quality parts and labor ??
Thanks a lot guys.
Easy Tiger! I have noticed allot of your posts are pushing outrageous wants from your truck. Realize that it is a process, you can't just jump to 30psi and expect it to go smoothly. Make sure and do alot, and I mean, alot of research. Don't just take peoples passing opinion, since most have never ventured to the extreme you are talking about.
It will cost you well more than 5 grand to pull off running 30psi. When it is all said and done your powertrain will cost as much as the original purchase price of your truck. Everything needs upgrading to handle 700+ hp. Not a dig, just make sure you are truly ready for what you are about to embark on.
That is my 2 cents, take it as you will.
It will cost you well more than 5 grand to pull off running 30psi. When it is all said and done your powertrain will cost as much as the original purchase price of your truck. Everything needs upgrading to handle 700+ hp. Not a dig, just make sure you are truly ready for what you are about to embark on.
That is my 2 cents, take it as you will.
IF you want to push the kind of boost through a supercharger you are much better going through one of the big vendors here! That is entirely to much boost for a street driven truck to stay together without some serious upgrades.
Completly new suspension... or upgrades to that air ride system you got... new, built bullet proof rear end and drive shaft... bullet proof u-joints and transmission....
then slap 30lbs of boost in there...
then slap 30lbs of boost in there...
Originally Posted by khendrix2374
Completly new suspension... or upgrades to that air ride system you got... new, built bullet proof rear end and drive shaft... bullet proof u-joints and transmission....
then slap 30lbs of boost in there...
then slap 30lbs of boost in there...
And watch the heads lift off..
You'll have 5K just in fuel system and computer managment. That's NOT including a built engine, trans, DS, rear end....
Jeff C.
Jeff C.
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Ya gotta start somewhere. If you plan to go to 700hp, you need to put the right stuff in the first time around (and it's cheaper in the long run).
Get your engine block, heads, intercooling system, and positive-displacement device of choice (turbo or supercharger) and just go mild with the boost at first (8-12psi). Boost upgrades are only pulley changes once all the other supporting hardware is in place.
Next, get your fuel system and computer tuning tools in place and get things working correctly. As far as fuel system, GO BIG!!! I found out I didn't have enough fuel pump while on the dyno just at 18psi with an Eaton (and it's already a 255LPH Bosch).
For computer and tuning, decided on where you will be getting the majority of your tunes and purchase their recommended tuner hardware/software. I went with the SCT from www.lightningparts.com because I 100% trust Sal to be the best tuner out there.
Finally, as you are working your way to 700hp, do upgrade your transmission and your drive shaft u-joints since those things can cause lots of other damage if they fail. For transmission, take the easy and reliable approach and go with a Factorytech monsterbox. They make them in the 4R100 and the 4R70 models. My 4R70 monsterbox dropped right in and is taking everything I throw at it.
Did I mention to GO BIG on the fuel system?
Talk with Mike Dunn at www.madenterprise.com for recommended fuel system upgrades, monsterbox transmissions, pulleys,,,etc. He has it all,,and some good knowledge to go with.
Get your engine block, heads, intercooling system, and positive-displacement device of choice (turbo or supercharger) and just go mild with the boost at first (8-12psi). Boost upgrades are only pulley changes once all the other supporting hardware is in place.
Next, get your fuel system and computer tuning tools in place and get things working correctly. As far as fuel system, GO BIG!!! I found out I didn't have enough fuel pump while on the dyno just at 18psi with an Eaton (and it's already a 255LPH Bosch).
For computer and tuning, decided on where you will be getting the majority of your tunes and purchase their recommended tuner hardware/software. I went with the SCT from www.lightningparts.com because I 100% trust Sal to be the best tuner out there.
Finally, as you are working your way to 700hp, do upgrade your transmission and your drive shaft u-joints since those things can cause lots of other damage if they fail. For transmission, take the easy and reliable approach and go with a Factorytech monsterbox. They make them in the 4R100 and the 4R70 models. My 4R70 monsterbox dropped right in and is taking everything I throw at it.
Did I mention to GO BIG on the fuel system?
Talk with Mike Dunn at www.madenterprise.com for recommended fuel system upgrades, monsterbox transmissions, pulleys,,,etc. He has it all,,and some good knowledge to go with.
Last edited by adami67; Jan 11, 2006 at 06:02 PM.
Originally Posted by adami67
Ya gotta start somewhere. If you plan to go to 700hp, you need to put the right stuff in the first time around (and it's cheaper in the long run).
Get your engine block, heads, intercooling system, and positive-displacement device of choice (turbo or supercharger) and just go mild with the boost at first (8-12psi). Boost upgrades are only pulley changes once all the other supporting hardware is in place.
Next, get your fuel system and computer tuning tools in place and get things working correctly. As far as fuel system, GO BIG!!! I found out I didn't have enough fuel pump while on the dyno just at 18psi with an Eaton (and it's already a 255LPH Bosch).
For computer and tuning, decided on where you will be getting the majority of your tunes and purchase their recommended tuner hardware/software. I went with the SCT from www.lightningparts.com because I 100% trust Sal to be the best tuner out there.
Finally, as you are working your way to 700hp, do upgrade your transmission and your drive shaft u-joints since those things can cause lots of other damage if they fail. For transmission, take the easy and reliable approach and go with a Factorytech monsterbox. They make them in the 4R100 and the 4R70 models. My 4R70 monsterbox dropped right in and is taking everything I throw at it.
Did I mention to GO BIG on the fuel system?
Talk with Mike Dunn at www.madenterprise.com for recommended fuel system upgrades, monsterbox transmissions, pulleys,,,etc. He has it all,,and some good knowledge to go with.
Get your engine block, heads, intercooling system, and positive-displacement device of choice (turbo or supercharger) and just go mild with the boost at first (8-12psi). Boost upgrades are only pulley changes once all the other supporting hardware is in place.
Next, get your fuel system and computer tuning tools in place and get things working correctly. As far as fuel system, GO BIG!!! I found out I didn't have enough fuel pump while on the dyno just at 18psi with an Eaton (and it's already a 255LPH Bosch).
For computer and tuning, decided on where you will be getting the majority of your tunes and purchase their recommended tuner hardware/software. I went with the SCT from www.lightningparts.com because I 100% trust Sal to be the best tuner out there.
Finally, as you are working your way to 700hp, do upgrade your transmission and your drive shaft u-joints since those things can cause lots of other damage if they fail. For transmission, take the easy and reliable approach and go with a Factorytech monsterbox. They make them in the 4R100 and the 4R70 models. My 4R70 monsterbox dropped right in and is taking everything I throw at it.
Did I mention to GO BIG on the fuel system?
Talk with Mike Dunn at www.madenterprise.com for recommended fuel system upgrades, monsterbox transmissions, pulleys,,,etc. He has it all,,and some good knowledge to go with.
Last edited by rafa26; Feb 25, 2006 at 03:46 PM.
700 hp?
You won't need 30 psi to make it to 700 hp if you play your cards right. Plus, your engine will be all the better for wear if you DON'T do that mostly through boost.
Have your heads and intake ported and polished by a pro first. Follow that with some higher-lift cams suited to the power-adder you wish to install (blower cams vs. turbo cams, etc). Get some good, strong valve springs with high quality retainers. Ramp up your fuel tuning and make it run rich for FI, and lean it out only a bit until you get a prime a/f ratio that is safe and still delivers a good amount of power. Remember, you'll wanna go with a set of high-quality fuel injectors, and 60lb-hr would be right about what you would want, if memory serves.
The block itself should be just fine to ~1200 hp. Rods and pistons should come into question at about 500-550 hp. Replace with some good h-beam rods and forged pistons from JE or Probe (as two top-shelf examples), and make sure to get good quality rings for them, as ring gap and sealing ability is just as important to a reliable engine as getting enough fuel is. Remember, it's little stuff that makes the difference.
If you wanna pick up a couple extra hp, have your crank knife-edged and install a windage tray to avoid some of the turbulence that is created inside the crankcase. Remember, though, with the rod/stroke ratio of the 5.4L, you won't want to go much past 5500 rpms though. No need to with boost, anyways.
Finally, intercool! No matter what you decide to use, there is much to be gained by cooling the air charge. Water cooling is best, but can cause non-linear power levels (as the cooling medium heats up with use), and it adds weight to your vehicle even more so than what adding any power adder would tack on. Air-to-air works very well, weighs less, and is arguably cheaper (except on roots-style superchargers, or any supercharger that blows directly through the intake manifold).
Good luck, and remember that research is the most powerful mod.
-Flea
You won't need 30 psi to make it to 700 hp if you play your cards right. Plus, your engine will be all the better for wear if you DON'T do that mostly through boost.
Have your heads and intake ported and polished by a pro first. Follow that with some higher-lift cams suited to the power-adder you wish to install (blower cams vs. turbo cams, etc). Get some good, strong valve springs with high quality retainers. Ramp up your fuel tuning and make it run rich for FI, and lean it out only a bit until you get a prime a/f ratio that is safe and still delivers a good amount of power. Remember, you'll wanna go with a set of high-quality fuel injectors, and 60lb-hr would be right about what you would want, if memory serves.
The block itself should be just fine to ~1200 hp. Rods and pistons should come into question at about 500-550 hp. Replace with some good h-beam rods and forged pistons from JE or Probe (as two top-shelf examples), and make sure to get good quality rings for them, as ring gap and sealing ability is just as important to a reliable engine as getting enough fuel is. Remember, it's little stuff that makes the difference.
If you wanna pick up a couple extra hp, have your crank knife-edged and install a windage tray to avoid some of the turbulence that is created inside the crankcase. Remember, though, with the rod/stroke ratio of the 5.4L, you won't want to go much past 5500 rpms though. No need to with boost, anyways.
Finally, intercool! No matter what you decide to use, there is much to be gained by cooling the air charge. Water cooling is best, but can cause non-linear power levels (as the cooling medium heats up with use), and it adds weight to your vehicle even more so than what adding any power adder would tack on. Air-to-air works very well, weighs less, and is arguably cheaper (except on roots-style superchargers, or any supercharger that blows directly through the intake manifold).
Good luck, and remember that research is the most powerful mod.
-Flea
Do it with a single turbo easily enough. Don't need two turbos to make that kind of power. You'll need a helluva a fuel system, a basic built short block (Manley H-beam rods, stock crank, forged pistons), ported heads, and lots of tuning. Rear end will handle the power...nothing to change there except maybe getting the axle tubes welded to the center. Can make it easier by using the 3V Whipple as the power adder with a shot of nitrous. Seen plenty of Lightning guys get near 700rwhp with a KB and drugs.



