Well, I still haven't located the perfect used kit so that comes first, but as soon as I do, I want to be able to jump on it and have a game plan ready to follow so this goes as smoothly as possible. I only want to run the stock 9 psi. kit on my 4.6L. I have already obtained the necessary instructions and gaskets so that I can remove the upper intake to clean the EGR ports, IAC, TB, and TB elbow. While I have the upper intake apart I plan to install the plugs at this time. I am planning on going with Denso Iriduim IT-20's, or NGK Iridiums gapped at .036 - .038. (Is this one or two heat ranges cooler than stock? Which do you prefer?) After that comes the ATI kit, change the fuel filter, then reprogram the ECU with Superchips 87 octane tune.

A few more points of concern:

- Are ATI's pullies really junk? How often should I expect to have to change them? From what I've read, it looks like every year? Don't know if I like that idea so much. How much are these things anyway? Does the kit replace any of the stock pullies? If so I'll need a puller or something won't I?

- Is oil consumption through the PCV valve really an issue? I can't see spending another $200 for a decent setup. Does anyone have any instructions for setting up an air compressor oil filter or similar setup? Is anyone running this one: http://www.accmachtech.com/pcvcatchcans.htm

- I hear ATI's install instructions are complete ***. Has anyone written up a better set of instructions / walk-through maybe even with pics?

- Seems like many have issues getting the serp. belt to line up right / proper tension, and even some issues with the tensioner rubbing. What do I need to know here?

- What is the recommended plug change interval with the Iridiums? How about fuel filter changes, and head unit oil changes? I don't mind working on the truck, but if I have to spend 3 - 4 hours every 4 - 5K miles working on it, I'm not going to have time to drive the thing. This would especially be a problem in the winter months because I have no garage.

- Guages...I really only plan on installing a boost guage on the a-pillar or on top of the steering column, but how hard / easy would it be to install an A/F guage? Can anyone recommend a place to get the guage pods specific to the F-150? Does anyone have a pic of the location I need to tap into for the boost guage?

- Is my engine going to take me another 100K mi. with this setup? How about the head unit? Booster pump? M5OD with Hurst shifter? 8.8" rear end?

- I have removed the pre-cats, swapped the stock "Y Pipe" with a Flowmaster "Y Pipe" into single 2 1/2", I'm not running any muffler, and it's turned-down before the axle. Will this help / hurt anything? Do you think I will be able to achieve 300 RWHP with this setup? What kind of torque?

If it matters, the truck is a 2001 4.6L 4x4 ext. cab with 3:55 gears. It was built in late 2000, so I basically have a 2000 4.6L with non-PI heads. It has about 54,000 mi. and has had the oil changed at the dealership every 4,000 mi. with Motorcraft 5-20 synth-blend. All other fluids have been changed over to full synthetics in the last 6,000 mi., and I just did the coolant yesterday for the second time. Any advice / help is greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!!!

 

Wow! That's a lot of questions. I'm not an expert, so I will tackle a few:
Oil consumption: I don't have the problem, but maybe because I don't get into the pedal too much. There is a good set up that Jordon not Mike uses that utilizes the cheap oil seperator from CH. There are many links to that set up if you search.

I had no problems with the Installation Instructions. They were fairly clear and straight forward. Only muddy ones related to belt tensioning.

I did indeed have a problem with the belt line-up. 10 minutes and 2 washers later, it was resolved.

Irridium plugs should last 20,000 plus miles. But you still need to check. Fuel filter changes should be normal, but if you get some bad gas or dirt in tank, that will alter you need to change. (see gauge comment below). Head unit oil is changed at 6000 miles after break in.

Gauges: I would recommend a good fuel pressure gauge over the AF gauge. I have both, but if you read up on the AF gauges, you will learn that they can't really tell you the right story under heavey full boost when you need it. The fuel pressure gauge will let you know that you are getting the recommended fuel delivery through the FMU that ATI recommends. It will also alert you to a dirty fuel filter or other fuel delivery issue. Boost gauge connect to any manifold vacuum source. Do a search and there are several pictures of the tap off the passenger side of the intake that you can T into.
Autometer makes custom gauge pods for the pillar and steering column for the f150. Here is my set up. Pillar modified to fit around Grip.


As in all of life, nothing is certain, but there are MANY who have 100,000+ miles on Procharged engines. It is known for reliable engine life because of the intercooler set up. PS go with the 3 core.

 

Thanks man, I'll look into a FP guage instead. How does it get it's reading though? I like the looks of the single guage in between the "Oh *****" handle...I just may mount my boost guage there instead. Sorry about all the questions...I've read and read and I still have concerns. This is a pretty big project, IMO.

Nice truck man...interior looks sick!

 

This works for me, I have one separator for each bank though (these aren't my pics):
https://www.f150online.com/galleries...0810&anum=7528

I had two pulleys die, totally easy to replace. Talk to Crash, he may sell them a bit cheaper than the $60/each that ATI charges. My kit was used, so I have no idea how long the pulleys really last.

As desperado stated, you can correct for mis-aligned pullies with a washer or two. Totally easy, even I can do it.

You should have PI heads on a 2001.

 

I still don't see the vaccum location for the boost guage on the forums when searching. All I can find is the stock location for the L's is under the dash.

Jordan not Mike, that looks nice, and cheap. Is it mounted? If not, is it plenty secure? Do you actually have to dump them on occasion? Do both sides seem to trap oil or is it mainly on the driver's side? I understand this is where it hooks up to the ATI intake right?

Unfortunately, my truck was built in laste 2000, and I don't have the "PI" stamped into my head, and my upper intake doesn't look like the PI one.

 

Autometer electronic gauge comes with a sender that mounts on the fuel rail. The adaptor for Ford Trucks is separate...about $10

 

Mine just sort of hang there, the tubing is plenty strong to hold them up.

I dump them every few tanks of fuel. Both sides appear to trap about the same amount of oil. Totally

I have both dumping into the ATI intake. I capped-off the inlet to the intake manifold (for the passenger side PCV) and re-routed it to the blower inlet.

 

Any reason? Just curious. I'm not totally familiar with the PCV system / routing on our trucks.

 

If you leave the factory routing to the intake manifold, you can (potentially) lose boost by having it leak from the pressurized intake manifold back thru the PCV.

By capping it off the boost is trapped in the manifold.

 

I see, I assume this has happened with the ATI kit? You'd think there would be an "upgraded" PCV valve that would eliminate both of these issues.

 

ALL boosted Ford modular motors have this PCV/oil problem. Even the Lighting guys. Doesn't matter which blower you get, you'll still have PCV blow-by.

 

May want to gap the plugs a little tighter. The guy who tuned my truck recommended a gap of no more than .035. He generally recommends between .030 and .035 or else you may experience some blowout of the spark.

 

...even with copper or iridium?

 

Either way. He said the only thing that Iridiums will do for you is just prolong the life of the plug. From his testing/dyno numbers they did nothing for performance.

 

Had a new EV68c pcv valve laying around in a box, this valve is like a one way check valve vacume can pull through it as a pcv should but when presurized it stops the flow of boost into the valve cover and eliminates the presurized crancase problem. Installed this valve about 1000 mile ago and everything is as dry as can be, no oil in any hoses or intake track no oil blowing out of breather. Before I installed this I was cleaning up oil every time I opened the hood, This valve is steel, not shure what the newer ones are made of but I am shure they are avalable, They were an upgrade for the older v8 cars and trucks in the late 70's