JL Audio w7 in Lightning ?
Can anyone tell me how I could fit this in my lightning ? Here is a link to the sub . http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/10w7.html
I talk to a guy at the car sterio place and he said if we could get it to fit somehow it would sound awesome . I will either go with this sub or (2) JL W3`s in the 10 " . The sub is around 10.5 " wide . Any idea`s on this ?
I talk to a guy at the car sterio place and he said if we could get it to fit somehow it would sound awesome . I will either go with this sub or (2) JL W3`s in the 10 " . The sub is around 10.5 " wide . Any idea`s on this ?
do you mean 10.5" deep? that is a deep sub. you could build a box and if you are tall enough stick it behind the seat and lose some leg room. that would be the only way. put it behind the passenger seat and scoot it up some.
or cut through the bed
or cut through the bed
First off I have to agree with the "salesman" that "if" you could get the JLW7 to fit it would be an incredible sub in the proper enclosure.
However unless you had somehow indicated to him that you intended on heavily modifying the interior of your truck he has done nothing but waste your time. The key here is that it must be in the proper enclosure.
Even the best sub installed improperly will easily be outperformed by much less expensive subs which have been correctly installed.
In my opinion the best subs from JL for your truck would be the W3's if you intend on placing them behind your seat. The W3's can perform excellently in a small sealed enclosure which is the most practical for a standard cab truck such as yours. These subs can take an incredible amount of abuse and keep on playing, just be certain to get enough power to drive them (the JL 500/1 would be an excellent choice).
Another common misconception is that more subs are always a better choice... not so for most people. If you have the extra money to spend a larger amp, which would give you more dynamics and a carefully designed better quality box would be money better spent for most people.
Back to my original point, remember when you go to a stereo shop or any other store that the salesman should be able to help you get what YOU want, not simply tell you what would be "cool" or lead you around the store and rehash what he sees on the tags. Yes the JLW7 subs are awesome, but realistically not worth your time considering for your truck. The "salesman" did nothing but waste your time by showing you something that is not practical for you to use, either because he A: didn't know what it was he had to sell, or B: he didn't want to take the time to find out find out what would work for you and satisfy your needs.
OK enough ranting, the JL sub’s are awesome (I’ve got 2 10w0’s under my back seat).
Don’t be afraid to tell the salesman what it is that you want, that is what he is there for.
However unless you had somehow indicated to him that you intended on heavily modifying the interior of your truck he has done nothing but waste your time. The key here is that it must be in the proper enclosure.
Even the best sub installed improperly will easily be outperformed by much less expensive subs which have been correctly installed.
In my opinion the best subs from JL for your truck would be the W3's if you intend on placing them behind your seat. The W3's can perform excellently in a small sealed enclosure which is the most practical for a standard cab truck such as yours. These subs can take an incredible amount of abuse and keep on playing, just be certain to get enough power to drive them (the JL 500/1 would be an excellent choice).
Another common misconception is that more subs are always a better choice... not so for most people. If you have the extra money to spend a larger amp, which would give you more dynamics and a carefully designed better quality box would be money better spent for most people.
Back to my original point, remember when you go to a stereo shop or any other store that the salesman should be able to help you get what YOU want, not simply tell you what would be "cool" or lead you around the store and rehash what he sees on the tags. Yes the JLW7 subs are awesome, but realistically not worth your time considering for your truck. The "salesman" did nothing but waste your time by showing you something that is not practical for you to use, either because he A: didn't know what it was he had to sell, or B: he didn't want to take the time to find out find out what would work for you and satisfy your needs.
OK enough ranting, the JL sub’s are awesome (I’ve got 2 10w0’s under my back seat).
Don’t be afraid to tell the salesman what it is that you want, that is what he is there for.
ok, I gotta throw my JL experience in. I have an old 15w1 (they don't even make them any more, I believe the 15w0 is the replacement) and it will take a ton of abuse. It's rated at 150 watts RMS and I've been using an Orion 275SX on it for over 8 years now. The 275SX runs 300watts RMS when bridged. Anyway, point is JL subs are great and you don't need a supersub to get good sound or pounding bass. 2 10W3's would give you great sound. If you want tons of bass you could always go nuts with 4 subs if they'll fit. Too bad you can't get a 15 behind the seat in a pickup, glad I have an Expi.
If you have the money I suggest going with a good Orion amp. Their web site is here The HCCA's are stable and clear at .5 ohms.
If you have the money I suggest going with a good Orion amp. Their web site is here The HCCA's are stable and clear at .5 ohms.
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It can be done. You would have to do the bucket seat conversion, see Vinnie or RobGs truck. You would then have to build a fiberglass center counsel that is deep(tall enough). I'm currently doing this on an extra cab F150 w/ captains chairs and intergrating in the stock center counsel that goes with the captains chairs. Areas of concern are, you have to leave enough clearance for the glove box to open, just recess a part of the box and if you have the in dash cup holders like the regular f150s the cup holder may hit the top of the box. You will need to recess, fleece and fiberglass to fit around that. I don't have any pictures right now but i can send you to a link that gives you a good idea of what is involved.
http://www.fordtruckworld.com/mygall...965&album=1382
http://www.fordtruckworld.com/mygall...965&album=1382
808hawaiin,
Awesome job on the console box.
SVT_KY,
Any pictures of the 4 10w7's mounted in the cab of Crazyone's truck? That seems pretty extreme to be able to get 4 of them in there with the proper enclosure size.
Keep on rockin'
Awesome job on the console box.
SVT_KY,
Any pictures of the 4 10w7's mounted in the cab of Crazyone's truck? That seems pretty extreme to be able to get 4 of them in there with the proper enclosure size.
Keep on rockin'
the w'7s are nice but in away they arnt
i mean jl is the bomb dont get me wrong i got 4 ten inch jl w'6 but the w7 u need a good amp, and when u turn them up they are loud but they arnt clear... personally i go tens for clear bass and its loud. ive installed w7s before mult times they sound low but it not clear when turn up
i mean jl is the bomb dont get me wrong i got 4 ten inch jl w'6 but the w7 u need a good amp, and when u turn them up they are loud but they arnt clear... personally i go tens for clear bass and its loud. ive installed w7s before mult times they sound low but it not clear when turn up
I agree that installing that sucker is a waste of time and comfort. Thats a huge sub! I installed 4 10" polk dx 10's behind by reg Cab f-150 without giving up leg room. Now I have trashed the 10's and installed 4 MA audio 12" subs without giving up leg room! It's all about taking time to plan your system. I have been doing this for 14 years and have my own shop. With my currnt system, I can easily hit 158 Spl. Think about how much money that subs cost and the power it will take to run it right, then weigh in on your options!
Yes, Yes, Yes ... I do have pictures! When I get them back from wallyword. Then I will learn how to post them on here! In order to get'em in, you need to cut the plastic trim in the back corners of the cab ( square them off) The box will cover the missing trim and you get and xtra 2 1/2"s to work with. Also, I had to shorten my center console by 3"s. (so the console would not hit the box) because the box goes from the floor of the truck to the roof. The top of the box is custom fit with the back glass so it gives a custom fit look. As for amps, not in the cab. NO MORE ROOM! So being that I never use my tool box, I installed my amps in it. The amp rack is motorized and rises out of the tool box. Cools as ****! But since I own my own shop, It took me over 6 months to design, build and install my new system. My old system can be seen at
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/library/uc/ucjasonbell.htm
click on readers riders on the left. Then ford rides. then f-150, then Jason's F-150. I do have a pic post here but it doesn't show then old sysytem.
http://4wheeldrive.about.com/library/uc/ucjasonbell.htm
click on readers riders on the left. Then ford rides. then f-150, then Jason's F-150. I do have a pic post here but it doesn't show then old sysytem.


