i made 2 boxes for 10"s in my 2002 supercab under my rear flip up seat. Im afraid the box doesnt have enough air space and im gonna blow the speaker. It works fine right now but im not the most inteligent person when it comes to this stuff.check out my gallery for pics of the boxes. Let me know what you think. https://www.f150online.com/galleries...TOKEN=82187532

 

I wouldn't think that you would blow them. They probably just don't hit as deep as they would in bigger boxes. I have the other Kenwood driver from the series you have. I've got the "blue" one that is designed for small enclosures, as I have just about .6cf in my box.

You might get better sound if they were aimed down. Maybe add some dowels as feet, flip 'em over, and see if they sound better.

Back to the question, I don't think you'll blow them. I assume there is a couple of inches behind the voice coil and magnet of the speakers? If not, heat and meltdown of the voice coil is what would worry me...

 

I'm not familiar with the subs you have. How much airspace do they require?

In case you don't know how to figure box volume:
measure the outside of your box in inches

(length - (wood thickness*2)) * (width - (wood thickness*2)) * (height - (wood thickness*2)) / 1728

That will give you volume in cubic feet. Match that number with the airspace requirements for your sub.

I agree with SlvrnBlckF150. You won't blow your subs in too small of an enclosure (unless of course you apply way too much power) they just won't pound very good.

 

Thanx for the feedback guys. I really appreciate it. My rear seats fold down and they land on top so it is like they are turned over and i notice a difference than when the seats are up. I will try turning them down and see what happens. Im not sure about how much space they need but i know there is about 1/2" from the bottom of the box and the bottom of the speaker. if that means anything to you.


FX4Guy

 

If your sub has a vent (a hole in the middle of the magnet when looking at the rear of the sub), you need at least as much clearance as the diameter of the vent from the rear of the box. If not, bottom clearance doesn't matter.

Also, if the sub surround is hitting the bottom of your seat, you will get some funky sound. Anything from a bump noise to muffled sound, and clarity will be greatly reduced.

 

In your pictures it looks like you have enough airspace to get the job done. Generally a 10" sub doesn't require much. I'm assuming those are sealed enclosures at that size. I tried to find details on box size on the web site but only found info on the DB series. It appears that Kenwood puts that info in the manual so I would check there. A bigger box would give you more low end, but it all depends on what you want. A big box could sound like crap to for that matter, unless you have someone build it that knows what they are doing.

Robdude30 was right on about it possibly hitting the seats, but after looking at your pictures and Kenwood's site I don't think that particular model has that much voice coil throw. A way to tell is to watch the sub with the seats up and see how far above the surrounding it travels (use a BASS track if you have one) then when you put the seats down try to see how much distance there is between the seat and the speaker.

I wanted to make the typical suggestion of running the speakers in a one channel bridged parallel mode, if you haven't done so already. That will make your amp put out more power to the subs. Just make sure the amp is rated for 2 ohms. I don't know the details on the amp or your speakers to get any more in detail about it. Again, check your manuals on details and instructioins.

As far as blowing the subs I wouldn't worry too much about it. Kenwood makes a pretty good product and if you do manage to blow one, which I doubt you will, they should replace it under warranty.

A side note to all the people on this group. This is my first time posting and I wanted to say that there is a lot of good information here. I've been reading regualarly for a few weeks now since my wife got her 02 King Ranch SuperCrew. I drive a 99 Expi myself and have found a ton of ideas here to play around with. It's out of warranty now so I don't feel so compelled to not touch it for fear of voiding something ;o) Keep up the good work everyone!

 

The sub doesnt come up above the sorrounding when it hits or at least not when i was looking ha ha. I dont blast the crap out of the thing all though I should. I feel better knowing that kenwood makes a good product and will also stand behind it. Im not worrying about it too much anymore.

Also I agree there is a great deal of information being shared here and it is all usefull I love these message boards and really appreciate all the great people here that help with the knowledge they have.

FX4Guy

P.S. Anybody from southern california?

 

Just in case you were wondering I have a 4 channel amp and i have the 2 subs rining on there own channels and the 2 front speakers on there own and the rear speakers are still running off the head unit.

 

Hey man, I took a look at what I think is your amp...

http://www.xplodsony.com/products/?C...Q&MD=XM-475GSX

It appears to bae a 2/3/4 channel amp whch is good news. You could possibly set up your subs in parallel on one channel. "Dual mode -- An amplifier configuration in which both a stereo pair and mono speaker system are simultaneously powered by a stereo amplifier." The only catch is this "Speaker Impedance -- 2 - 8 Ohms (stereo) -- 4 - 8 Ohms (when used as a bridging amplifier)" Now, it all depends on what the Impedance of your subs are. The ones you have come in a 4 ohm or 8 ohm version. If you have the 8 ohm sub I would suggest bridging your amp to 3 channels (2 stereo and one mono (subs) and that would increase your power output quite a bit. If you have the 4 ohm sub I would just leave it alone. That amp may or may not be able to handle that kind of punishment. I have an Orioin amp that is rated similar to your sony, but it's an old SX series amp that is tough as nails. I've had it down to a 1ohm load bridged and the only major problem I had was blowing the occasional fuse. Anyway, just some info for you to mull over. I like to see people get the most out of their equipment

 

From looking at the picture I am guessing that box is about 18" long x 14" wide x 8" deep. If you built it out if 3/4" MDF or particle board it would have internal dimensions of 16 1/2" x 12 1/2" x 6 1/2" which would give you about .78 cubic feet which is plenty for a 10" sub. Most 10" speakers need around .65 cubic feet in a sealed enclosure.

Mike

 

I have .75 for each driver.

my box takes up the whole space under the seat, and fires down. much like the subbox.net one or whatever.

The box is split in the middle.


.75 is generally the perfect amount of room for most drivers.

I get DEEP bass

 

Hey Mike thanx you were close. It is actually 5.5" tall, 11.5" out, and one is 16" wide and the other is 14" wide. I made it out of 1/2" mdf to make up for that little bit of space. so knowin that what do u think?

FX4Guy https://www.f150online.com/galleries...TOKEN=82187532

 

oooops i shoulda said this in the last one but the speaker hangs in the box 4.5" so i have about 1/2" from the bottom i think.LOL
Thanx

FX4Guy

 

In that case the inside dimensions would be 4.5" tall, 10.5" deep and 15" long for one box. So 4.5 x 10.5 x 15 = 708.75
708.75 divided by 1728 = .41 cubic feet.

The other box would be 4.5" tall, 10.5" deep and 13" long.
So 4.5 x 10.5 x 13 = 614.25
614.25 divided by 1728 = .355 cubic feet.

Both enclosures are really too small for 10" subs. You could put some dacron stuffing in the boxes and gain almost 20% more volume but you would still be short of the recommended .65 cubic feet for a sealed 10" box.

 

Aww man that really sucks. Whats gonna happen if they are too small? So far so good. thanx again for your feedback.

FX4Guy