reccomendations for 6.5" speakers?
I have the CDT Audio HD braxials and love them, plus I know where to get them at a good price. CDT just came out with a higher end called the Eurosport, fiberglass driver, 1" silk tweeter, and new crossover. These cost about 40% more than the HD. Email if you are interested and I'll tell you where to buy at a good price.
Just today I went and got some new speakers for replacing factory ones, i have a 94 f 150 reg cab and replaced fronts with 6 1/2 Pioneer TS-A1655 and in the rear i replaced with 6X8 TS-A6855. at 79.95 a pair and had 4 speakers, they have tweeters and the VMPP sub system
Can't wait to put em in, i'll tell you how they sound.
Crazy Jay
Can't wait to put em in, i'll tell you how they sound.Crazy Jay
It's hard to compete with the Boston Acoustic 6.5 Pro Series. It's a 6.5" woofer and a 1" titanium dome tweeter seperate system. They will outdo just about every other component system on the market. They sound awesome, and have amazing clarity. Check them out before installing any other component system. Go to Boston Acoustics . Click on their products and decide for yourself. Most reputable stereo shops carry them. Good luck..........JB
DynAudio.....Diamond Audio....Rainbow......Focal....
They all make awesome high end components.....unfortunately, they are really expensive. Q series MB Quarts are good also....and Boston Acoustics...
try www.thezeb.com
They all make awesome high end components.....unfortunately, they are really expensive. Q series MB Quarts are good also....and Boston Acoustics...
try www.thezeb.com
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Does anyone know anything about the Infinity Ref 5x7s? A local radio shop salesmen I called said the tweeter rotates for better imaging. Has anyone heard these? I'm not looking for the best of the best and breaking the bank, just something better than factory.
If you go infinity, get Kappa's. They are a much better speaker. The new kappas, with a swivel tweeter and outboard crossover (Like components) are only 99 dollars a pair from thezeb.com
i went with Diamond Audio 5.25 components (Motosport series). To hurt them, I'd have to use a Smith&Wesson. I mounted the tweets in the door, just forward of the door latch. They're amped with a simple Kicker 55W. Amazing sound. Clear. Extremely precise. Lots of sizzle. I've cranked them till my ears bled. They're so good, I can't hear the 6.5's mounted in the rear. At all, at any volume level. I bought them after listening to them on a comparison with comparable Polk's and Infinity's. To my ear, it wasn't even close.
<grin> Mess up? If you're asking how I mounted a tweeter without making a hole, I didn't. Nope. I took a drill and bored right thru the panel. Then I took the correct size hole cutter and bored that baby out. What a mess. But I didn't care about not "messing up" two measly inches on my doors. They're wired for good, for the better, and permanently. I've "messed up" every door I've ever had in all the cars I've owned. Small price to pay for quality sound.
<tongue firmly in cheek> I recommend everyone should "mess up" their doors. Components are a commitment and should never be bought on a whim. Besides, I've had more passengers hop in and say "Wow. Looks like you got some cool speakers". That's all the excuse I need. Here. Throw in this Stevie Ray CD, pal.
<tongue firmly in cheek> I recommend everyone should "mess up" their doors. Components are a commitment and should never be bought on a whim. Besides, I've had more passengers hop in and say "Wow. Looks like you got some cool speakers". That's all the excuse I need. Here. Throw in this Stevie Ray CD, pal.
I just wanted to make sure that a hole saw wouldn't tear through my panel with reckless abandon. Just worried that the hole saw would "rip" the existing material on the door....the vinyl portion in front of the door handle....
Hmmmmmmm.......yes. There must be great care, my friend. On my SCrew, I mounted forward of the door latch, where the "soft" part of the panel meets the "hard". The tweet looks like it "belongs" in that nice gentle curvy part. Having the same concerns as you, I used the tweeter template to mark the area to be cut with a fine magic marker. (Your may have to make a template; my speakers came with one). Before boring with wonderful, reckless abandon, I made an extremely precise, surgical cut thru the "soft" tissue of my door panel, thus avoiding any possible ripping. Worked like a champ. My wife, however, thought my wearing a white gown and surgical gloves a bit much. She, alas!, didn't understand that I was operating on my baby.


