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Where to tap power for sub

Where to tap power for sub

  #1  
Old 11-24-2018, 07:43 AM
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Where to tap power for sub

Is there a reason to power a sub woofer right off the battery? Isnít the preferred method to tap off a key on position on fuse block inside cab? Or are these newer trucks so electronically sensitive you canít use a fuse tap
 

Last edited by nu-supercrew; 11-24-2018 at 07:45 AM.
  #2  
Old 11-25-2018, 04:55 PM
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Are you talking about the power on relay/remote turn on for the amp? If so, those are usually super low draw and it's intended for that. They sell tap/stab fuses that you can stick in do this.

As far as powering the amp, usually you go + to battery, and - to the closest sanded off chassis part for ground. Although, I have wired + and - directly to the battery to chase noise/whine problems.
 
  #3  
Old 11-25-2018, 10:11 PM
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I am referring to the power to the amp on the subwoofer. According to my schematic the available pins/connections on the amp/woofer are:
Enable pin 1
ground pin 2
ground pin 3
empty pin 4
power pin 5
power pin 6
subwoofer + pin 7
subwoofer - pin 8
shield pin 9
I am assuming the amp/sub is turned on by the 'enable' at the head unit. I was going to tap off the radio fuse position on the fuse block to power the sub.
 
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2005sub.pdf (337.1 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by nu-supercrew; 11-25-2018 at 10:15 PM.
  #4  
Old 11-25-2018, 10:13 PM
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Is this for an aftermarket combo unit, or are you trying to install a Ford kit?
 
  #5  
Old 11-25-2018, 10:16 PM
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Trying to use the factory sub out of my '05 f150
 
  #6  
Old 11-25-2018, 11:00 PM
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Without looking at it myself, it's hard to tell...

Doing a little bit of research, not sure if this will help. It appears as if there is already a line that goes back there. However, some folks say it needs to be activated with Forscan, and some don't.

I'm sure with enough persistence, you'll either be able to do it "more" factory, or else just do it outright aftermarket, and use line out converters and crop it right into the blue to turn it on. Then run small gauge cable to the battery.

Either way, you should be able to get it to work. Just takes some work.

For a 2015:
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: White/Red
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: Violet/Gray
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue


There is a plug hidden behind the trim for the left rear seat belt.

Orange/Red = Power
Black/Violet = Ground
Brown = Remote Turn On/Clip Detect
Violet = Speaker +
Green = Speaker -


 
  #7  
Old 11-26-2018, 06:29 AM
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Leave it up to you to find that 2015 info! I am acquiring the items to install the sub and also upgrade to a sync3 lite to be able to run apple car play. Thanks again for this !
 

Last edited by nu-supercrew; 11-26-2018 at 08:10 AM.
  #8  
Old 11-26-2018, 10:35 AM
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No problem.

That's the adventure of installing systems into these newer vehicles.

I prefer going the route you are taking, by making it more "factory".

Good luck!
 


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