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I plan to upgrade my trucks system very soon, just not sure what to buy. This is a daily driver, but want it to sound great. I am stuck utilizing my 2013 stock radio because of everything it controls. I pulled everything listed below in sig out of my last truck. I will be doing install myself and utilizing Sound Deadener Showdown products on 4 doors and back wall
I am leaning towards JBL MS-8 and utilizing the center channel. Any suggestions for good center speaker upgrade, maybe find a single on ebay? I am open to other DSP's?
The ID comps will go in rear doors, so considering Focal Access/Solid Amp package or Polyglass for fronts. My FD2200 amp cuts out on one side when the outside temp is cold. I know weird, but it resolves with turning up the volume ****. Amp plays fine once warm, but considering abandoning it. This is why considering the Focal Access/Amp combo. The ID's were not bright enough for me, so that's why leaning towards focal. Felt they were just missing something, compared to my Boston Pro's of old school system from High School 25 years ago.
Willing to spend around $1000 on DSP and front stage. Listen to mostly country and top 40 hits.
I am also considering going with cheaper DSP like AudioControle and going with higher grade/expensive components. If I utilize the AudioConrole, will probably abandon the center channel.
Just did an upgrade in my 14 Raptor....I put Focal 165 v15s in front doors and run them off a 4 channel amp mounted inside center console..I have JBL MS8,a 2 ch. amp for rears and the sub amp mounted behind back seat....The fox box with 2-10s from my 09 platinum fits perfect under rear seat...I have the center speaker on ch. 7 of ms8 without amp but it sounds ok at lower volumes but most times i dont use L7....
RE Audio 3000.1<br/>Rockford 300.2<br/>JBL MS8<br/>behind rear seat..
A Helix DSP is arguably the best if you know how to tune or want to learn and/or want more control. If not the MS8 is a quality "autopilot" DSP. If you want to go a little cheaper, the PPI DEQ.8 is a good compromise. It's miniDSP based (a good thing) but discontinued so hard to find. Someone has them on Amazon for about $390 OTD. Or, you can go with two miniDSP balanced 2x4 DSP's with an isolator for about $300 OTD.
No need for a component set if you're going active. Save the money and buy raw drivers. At your budget, look into brands like Hybrid Audio, Dynaudio, and Scanspeak. Lots of good info/reviews on DIYMA forums. If you really want it to sound great, consider your crossover points and on/off axis mounting when choosing your drivers. If your mids can't play up to 4000 Hz you're going to have to mount the tweeters right next to the mids...
Also, some drivers do better off axis then others and some will be too harsh if mounted on axis.
If you're going to do the doors and back wall, might as well do the the entire cabin (sans roof) in CDL/CCF/MLV. The floor and firewall is one of the easier parts to do and you get a lot of road/engine noise from the those locations. Kick panels are a bitch because of everything mounted there that you need to remove if you're going to do it right and get up high into the dash. Pillars are easy.
Lots of people don't even bother with rear speakers or if they do they go cheap with coaxials and just use them for rear fill or surround sound with video. Components are not necessary in the rear. I have rears but rarely use them, even for fill. Rear speakers just pull your front stage to the back. If you want them for surround sound, just go with a decent set of coaxials (round, not oval and preferably 6.5's instead of 5.25's) and spend your savings on the front stage.
