Hi I got a Polk audio db1240 rated at 360 Watts rms and I got it hooked up to a dual 400 Watt amp and my question is I'd this enough to blow the sub all the connections are tight but it sound like my speakers did when I blew them thanks for any info


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Need more info.
What kinda of speaker is it?
What are the voice coils?
How is it wired?
How do you have the gains set?

40 watts overpowered with clean power shouldn't be enough to blow it, but depending on the amp and how you have it all set up, it could be getting a really dirty, distorted signal, way too much power, etc.

 

The speakers I blew were factory Ford speakers this is is a 4 ohm sub wired for 4 ohms I used Walmart wires and amp since when I put it in I was a little on the broke side and haven't gotten around to changing it


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The box doesn't say how many voice coils and I can't remember of hand how to check on the sub itself but for some rain I believe it's a single


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Did it have one or two sets of terminals on the sub? If one, it's single, if two it's dual, etc.

What kind of box are you using? Is it to the specs of the sub?

How is the gain set on the amp? Do you have it maxed out?

Does the amp have one of those bass *****, and again, is it cranked all the way up?

All three of those things can make it sound terrible. A poor box will kill the quality, as will unclean/distorted power.

You wouldn't happen to know what brand the amp is?

 

It's a cheap Walmart box and amp the amp is a dual it's a single voice coil yes it was Al maxed out except on my deck it was at ten the top is fifteen


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Basically all of those things are problems..

According to the specs, it needs a sealed box at around .88cf, if your box is too small and say like .5cf, you can add about 1/2 pound of polyfill to help out some, just make sure to staple/glue it off to the sides in the box so it doesn't get into the pole on the sub and ruin it. If your box is too big, say 1.1cf or so or bigger, you really need to find a new box before you blow the sub and until you do keep the volume and gain way down on it.

Onto the amp, Dual amps are expensive paperweights. If it's rated at 400rms, it's probably putting out about 250-300rms before it starts distorting and clipping pretty bad. If it's 400 peak watts, it's even worse.

Side note, gain **** is not a volume ****, don't keep it all the way up.

For a quick fix just to get it to start sounding better, turn all the bass down, and set the volume on the headunit to the level that you normally listen at. From there slowly turn the bass up until it starts sounding bad, then go back a little.

 

That sub has a max power rating of around 720 watts and a single 4 ohm coil if I remember right. Sealed like pizzaman said. You should take a pic of the box with some measurements and post them on here. Dual anything is crap. If you have the box I think you have it's 1.25 qf. That to much volume for that woofer but it won't kill it. It will sound muddy easier and by reducing the RMS input would sound fine. If you are looking for competition bass, your not gonna get it from that set up. Overdriving it will blow the sub and most likely the amp too. Go with what pizzaman said about the settings and you should be fine. If the sub isn't working make sure the connections inside are good too.

 

It looks like you are trying to drive a 360 watt RMS sub with a 150 watt RMS amplifier!


Features

•Power output: 50 Watts x 2 RMS at 4 ohms; 75 Watts x 2 RMS at 2 ohms; 150 Watts x 1 at 4 ohms bridged
•MOSFET power supply
•Stereo/Bridgeable simultaneous operation
•Variable High and Low pass crossovers
•2 Ohm stable stereo operation
•Bass boost of 0, 6 or 12 dB with an additional bass boost at 45Hz when connected to a subwoofer
•Class A/B
•Auto-reset speaker short-circuit protection
•Extruded aluminum heat sink
•Side mounted controls

 

Hey sorry guys I forgot about this post with work being busy and all I think I fried the amp looking at everything closely so I'm gonna replace that with a quality one when money and time permits I figured this because it was getting really hot then the sub would stop then start again get hot then stop and repeat and it turns out a sweatshirt fell on top of it thanks for the info


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Just make sure you look at the RMS power rating of the amplifier & try to get around 400 watts rms

 

I got a couple more questions what is Polk audios top subwoofer and what would you guys recommend for speakers I got a 97 f150 extended cab I'm thinking 3 or 4 ways to get the most out of my music or am I looking at thinks the wrong way


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http://www.safeandsoundhq.com/polk-a...FUUV7AodP04A0Q

You need to know what type of space for the box you have. What amp to drive it. Power for the amps and how to get it there. Possible alternator and battery upgrades. Door speakers and wire upgrades. There is endless possibilities, It just depends on budget and what you want. Sound Q or ghetto slump, Or a combo of the fore mentioned. We have a few guys on here that have a vast knowledge in this dept.

 

Like he said^. Depends on the budget and what you want. SQ, SPL, somewhere in the middle, etc. Give us some more info and we can help you spend allllllllllllllll your money...

 

Well I don't really want to break the bank so to say I wanna be able to rip it out and put it in another vehicle when I decide to buy another one fairly simple I want to stick to a Polk sub and the alpine head unit I have and have good sound quality and loud when I want it to be thanks for the help


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