Been awhile since I've been on the forums here, but I moved on from my 2005 FX4 Screw (R.I.P.) to a 2011 Platinum Screw with the 6.2L.
So I had an Audiobahn A4002V amp pushing a 12" JL 12W1v2-4, and an Alpine head unit. I liked the low power drain and high volumes, so I kept the amp and sub.

Now for the life of me I can't find out if I can just replace the factory amp with mine, or if the head unit has RCA outs, or how to remove the panel around the head unit. I find a lot of posts about dropping a compatible sub in the factory box, or filling the sub box with poly fill, and things like that.

If anyone can help me out it would be greatly appreciated. Even it's just telling me what to search for.

FWIW I installed this equipment in my 05 FX4, but I'm not eager to tear apart my Platinum blindly. Also I was installing it with the Alpine head unit so the install was easy. I'm at a loss when it comes to factory stuff.

 

The sony amp is integrated and the easiest way to do what you want is just buy a good LOC like an audiocontrol LC2i. Unplug the wires going to the factory sub and unbolt the sub and remove it. Run the sub wires into the loc input and the out put to your amp, then to your sub. Don't forget to put in power and ground leads for the amp, and get a new box to put your sub into.

 

Well I wasn't wanting to spend money on it other than for wires. Is it not readable to get behind the head unit and bypass the factory amp? Also does the panel come off the same way it did in the 2005 f150? Just some clips holding it in place?

 

Feasible not readable.

 

There is no need to. The amp is under the center console. You could always get a cheaper loc. A simple 2 channel loc can be had for 15-20 bucks if you look around.

 

So after further review, my sub will not fit under the seat. Not even close. So I found a low profile setup, and I'll still use my old amp. I'll probably end up getting the LC2i. Just wondering if you have any suggestions for sub enclosures to fit under the rear seat. Preferably 4 ohm so I can keep my old amp. Thanks for the help so far.

 

All the subs I am looking at need a minimum of 1 cubic ft, and the pre built boxes all allow for .8 cubic ft.
So I'm going to build my own. Do you happen to know what powers the door speakers? I'd like to swap them out also, and amp them if necessary. This is kind of why I wanted to go from the back of the head unit. I feel it would be easier.

 

The same amp that powers the sub. There is actually up to 12 output channels on the sony amp. The F150 uses 9 of them, so if you want to amp the doors you need to put a loc on the outputs you want to upgrade (just like your doing for the sub). You might be better off to use a multiple channel loc like a LC6i or a LC8i and then run multiple amps to all new speakers.

 

I think I'll go with the LC8i. Don't think I'll do the door speakers yet but I will atleast be ready for it when I do. The LC8i will allow for a sub amp and door speaker amp without losing any of the sync functions, right?

I'm also assuming I will have to run all new speaker wire for the doors? Or do I just tap into the existing speaker wire? There are so many threads with different equipment choices and setups, not to mention different model years, it is getting a little confusing trying to decipher what I need for my setup. I read a post where you could disable the sync options, or that you lose the center speaker all together. I really wish it was as easy as using an aftermarket head unit, but maybe it is and it just seems a little overwhelming. So for that I appreciate you helping me out here.

My project of just adding a new sub has grown into a little bit of a monster now.

 

You could have the navigation unit reprogrammed to turn off the Sony sound, pop out the Sony amp and then run the output of the navigation unit directly into the low-level inputs of your aftermarket amplifiers if you were willing to add a 4 channel.

The advantage would be cleaner sound and a cleaner install. Downside is you have to send your radio out.

If you just want to run the sub/amp, you could grab low level audio at the back of the navigation unit in the 8 pin plug. No need for a LOC.

 

babysho - In 2009 when ford made sync available on the 150's the entire audio harness changed. The upgraded sony systems have a multi channel amp/DSP combo that drives all the speakers, including the sub. The sony amp uses the can-bus for the input so bypassing is impractical, it's easier to piggyback onto the sony than trying to bypass it.

 

Yes, the control of the Sony amp is via CAN Bus but the audio is still line level in. My previous statement still holds true. By tweaking a few values in the radio config, it will operate as if it does not have a Sony amplifier attached and therefore the radio will once again maintain all control over the audio (volume, fader, EQ, etc.)

From the prospective of the radio, the settings that allow it to work with an external DSP just cause the radio to output max volume and output unmodified audio. The Sony (or THX DSP in the Lincoln cars) just listen on the MS-CAN network and perform the audio manipulation. This is the reason you can not grab the line level between the deck and the amplifier without reprogramming.

I believe it would be worth the programming cost to have direct line level outputs that have not been amplified, attenuated and manipulated before my amplifier go them. Especially because (as mentioned before) the signals are split up by the Sony amp. With my idea, you are left simply with FL, FR, RL, RR and a Dedicated subwoofer output - perfect for a 4 channel and some form of a sub amp.

Just one mans opinion - take it for what it is worth.

 

Just get 2 8" w3 jl audio they go for 450 comes with box they r lil but they make some noise thats what I did