My new sub box showed up today. I bought a single 10" box from supercrew sound. I have to modify it because my 10" IDQ is too deep for this box. I haven't decided on whether I'll just use a spacer ring or knock out the back and build a hump to clear the magnet. I have to take some measurements and see if I have clearance to use a spacer ring and how thick I can go, the sub has an xmas of 28 mm and I don't want it to hit the carpet during full excursion.

I was curious as to how much I've spent so far on this system so I added it up, right now it totals $2300

 

My AudioControl 6XS showed up today. Now I just need some time and good weather to start putting it all together.

 

subscribed... can't wait to see how it turns out.

are you mounting the amps behind the seat? Could you take a few pics when you get the chance?

Thanks

 

Yes they are going back there, and I plan on taking plenty of pics. I'm just waiting on the the weather and the time to do the install. I now have a honeydo list to take care of first, before I can spend time on the truck.

 

Well I got 95% of everything installed. I just have to get it all tuned up and clean up the install then put the seat back in. I got a few pics, but this is the only one I have uploaded right now.



The rest are here http://s254.photobucket.com/user/05r...%202013%20f150

After doing some research and testing, there is a remote lead going to the sony amp that supplies 12v when the truck is running, so I used that for the remote turn on for my amps and audio control boxes. I have the wiring diagrams for the plugs on the sony amp for my truck so if anyone wants to see them I'll upload them. http://s254.photobucket.com/user/05r...dio%20diagrams
The wire colors may have changed from year to year but the outputs are the same for all sony amps from 09 up.

The same research that provided the remote lead also told me that all the outputs on the sony amps are a full range signals. That is one of many pitfalls of mass production. To ensure longevity of the speakers with a full range signal to them ford keeps the power level rather low for an amped system. Somewhere south of 20 watts per channel RMS, plus there is bass blockers inline to the tweeters. Knowing this I could have gotten away with the cheaper LC7i vs the LC8i and eliminated the EQS altogether.

Oh, and finally I would have had this done weeks ago but this showed up April 30th and kinda put a damper on things.
No, it's not mine. She is my first grand child.

 

Looks great and congratulations grandpa!

 

http://www.wssdriveeasy.com/f150-sou...n-2013-raptor/

The above article is about a similar upgrade.

 

Thanks for the link!

 

Any update to this? Where did you mount the tweets? Do you by chance have the wiring diagram for the sony amp? I have an FX2 13 with sony. I'm going to use a bit ten and just use the front mid and rear outputs to the bit ten and hope that gives full range.
Edit: just saw your wiring diagrams. Just wondering about tweets now

 

I'm still running the factory tweets in the stock location. After getting everything else installed and tuned, it sounded good to me with the stock tweets, so I left them.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

05RedFX4 your thread and the attachments you've supplied have been exrtemely helpful in my planning so far but I had a few questions about the signal coming from the Sony Amp. Have you confirmed that the signal out of the Sony amp for the front doors and tweeters are full range? Most people that post seem to think that you need a signal summing interface to merge the tweeter signal and door woofer signal in order to get full range to feed an aftermarket amp.

I'm in the process of installing a simple upgrade; a 2ch amp and a component set to replace the front speakers. I bought an LC2i to convert the signal from high level to low level (speaker wire to RCA) as well as take care of the factory bass reduction with the AccuBass feature. I was thinking the same as you, that the signal to the door woofers would be full range and perfectly acceptable to feed the LC2i which would then send a ful range signal to the new amp. However the more I read the forums, the more I see that most people are using some sort of signal summing interface or digital sound processor; whether it be a LC7i, CleanSweep or something similar.

Now if the signal to the front door speakers is full range, I shouldn't need a SSI, just a signal level converter (speaker wire to RCA) which is what I have in the LC2i, correct? The component set has their own cross overs so I don't really need to alter the signal that much, but clearly I have to start with full range.

I probably should have just bought the LC7i to begin with, but I didn't want to waste the money on something I didn't need since I'm only running one 2ch amp off it and I got a brand new LC2i for under $70. Obviously that's a wasted $70 if I still need a SSI since the LC7i does everything the LC2i does PLUS sums the signals. Grrrrrrrrr dam new technology!!! LOL

Any input you could provide would be much appreciated.

 

I did not verify that there is a full range signal to the tweeters, I saw no need to. Most all auto manufacturers do the same thing, build something as cheaply as possible. It is cheaper for them (ford and sony) to put in a bass blocker inline to the tweeters than to put a crossover internally in the amplifier. Besides if there was a crossover built into the amp, there would be no need for the bass blockers, they would be redundant. And since there is bass blockers there, and ford would not put them in unless they were needed, that means there must be a full range signal, it's the only logical explanation.

I wasn't absolutely sure, so I used an LC8i to sum the signals of the front mids and tweets and also provide a RCA level signal for the rear and sub. The lc8i doesn't have the accubass feature of the 7i or the 2i so I had to add in an EQ (eqs) and a crossover (6xs) before I reamped the signal.

Hope this helps, anymore questions, just ask.

 

When I was planning my system, I sent an email to AudioControl requesting they add in the accubass to the 8i and call it possibly the 9i. Don't know if they did anything about it.

My thought was since the 7i is basically a 6i with accubass, why not call the 8i with accubass the 9i, makes sense to me.

 

LOL, I hear you on that. I don't know why they don't have the AcuBass feature on all of them, if it's not needed just make it switchable with jumpers like everything else in their processors.

I think I'm going to order the 7i and call it a day. Have you had any issues with any of the processors? I read on the other forum, a long nightmareish ordeal with the Sony system and the AudioControl stuff not getting along well and ultimately frying a bunch of components. I'm really starting to wonder why and when I became a masochist...