So I've got a couple of blown speakers in the doors. I'd like some guidance on what component sets to use for the front speakers. (back speakers are obvious, I can just get coax sets) I don't want to install an amp... I'm looking for a simple replacement for the fronts. I saw many component sets that come with a cross over. I'm assuming I'd have to use those? Also, I'd like to replace the tweeters without modifying the current spot. I'm also hoping I don't have to run wires from the tweeter to the door panel. Is this possible? Help please!

Oh, I'm driving a 2011 Platinum, Nav/Sony. Thanks!

 

Youve got quite a lot of choices for door speakers. (suggestion)... I know a lot of guys like the Infinity Kappas in the doors. Ive heard them and they sound great. Very sharp and crisp sound.
If you want to stay component... Youll need the crossovers. Crossovers are kinda like the sorting lady at the post office. They sort different types of frequencies produced in the music. they kinda tell them what goes where. They decide what frequencies are allowed to be played through the speakers and what arent.
Theres two basic types of crossovers. Passive and active crossovers. Passive are less expensive and very simple to install. They are the most common.
Active are more expensive and are a little harder to install. The upside of a active crossover is that you can adjust the frequencies and sound being emmited.
I highly recomend Amping passive crossovers. Youll be happier with the quality. They wont sound as cheap.
Active crossovers dont always require an amp because they can get their power from an outside source... i.e battery.
Remember that when it comes to car audio. you want the quality sound coming form the front/stage of the truck. You can skimp on rear doors a little. But go with quality in the fronts.
Ultimatly... Go with what sounds good. If it fits your music style and your wallet... thats what you want.

 

I installed these JBL components in place of my stock speakers and they sound amazing. I went with these because they are relatively low power and use a 2 ohm load instead of 4 which is supposed to make them louder under low power, like a stock headunit. I'm very very happy with these.

 

Not really how it works, must headunits are made to run 4ohm at the lowest. Giving it a 2ohm load is a good way to blow the internal amp in the headunit.

And it's not under less power, generally 2ohm is about double the power draw of 4ohm.

It'll make them louder, because you've given them a lot more power. It can also damage them or the headunit.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I don't run them very loud, but I was trying to comment on how most people say components sound bad without an amp. These sound great. Probably another thing that helps them sound loud with the underpowered stock headunit is they are only 60W RMS/180W peak. Most other 6x8 component sets are around 100W RMS/300W peak.

JBL says they're "True 4 ohm", but it's supposed to be more like 2 ohm. I'm really not sure what that means.

"True 4-Ohm Topology
Low-impedance speaker voice coils extract more power from your amp for more powerful performance than high-impedance coils do. JBL GTO8608C component-system speakers use a lower-impedance voice coil than a typical 4-ohm speaker to extract the most power possible from all amplifiers engineered to drive loads of 4 ohms or less. And the GTO8608C component system is compatible with both aftermarket head units and factory-installed systems. Since many factory-installed systems incorporate 2-ohm speakers and include amplifiers designed to drive 2-ohm loads, replacing those reduced-impedance speakers with a typical 4-ohm model will reduce the power output from the amplifier. For the most powerful performance, the GTO8608C component system makes the best use of any amplifier by providing an optimum 2-ohm load."

 

So mletchworth, You run those speakers just with the head unit amping them? How do the tweeters fit in the existing spots? Also, were you able to use existing wiring between them?

 

Yep. The only other mod I have for the stereo is a small powered subwoofer. I've got the fader set about 70% to the front speakers.

You don't have to do any complex wiring but you will have to crimp some wire connectors. The stock speaker wires go to the crossover, then the woofer and tweeter connect to the crossover as well.

Having trouble adding pics right now, but I'll upload some in a bit. Not exactly stock location but real close.

 

Crossover under window switch panel


"stock" tweeter location

 

Just a question, why didn't you mount the tweeter behind the stock speaker grill?

 

How do you like those JBL's?

 

Tweeter mounted behind grill

 

My tweeters are up near the windshield, not in the door. I could imagine the wiring could be a pain if I can't re-use what's already there. Could someone explain the best way to get new tweeters to that spot, including wiring?

 

I really love the JBLs.

The dome on the tweeter sticks out pretty far, so I don't know if they would fit under the grill. I didn't want to take the door panel off and at the time I also thought it would be nice or not cut a hole in the panel. I could always get new grills if I wanted to move the tweeters in the future.

 

I replaces my door speakers in my 2012 super crew with Polk MM components and regular polks in the back, and powered them with a Fosgate T400.4 amp. The speakers, I found very cheap on Sonic electroncs, and honestly don't think that you'll find a better deal for what you pay for those, but that's my opinion.

 

Great thread, I been looking also.