Ok so I just bought a ROCKFORD FOSGATE P2D2-8 8" Punch P2 500 Watt 2-Ohm DVC sub and I want to build a box for it. I have been reading alot of threads and I never realized how important it was to have the right sized box and I want to make sure and do this right. In the owners manual they have this.



It says this is the optimum size to have, am I on the right track here?

Also they have the same thing for a ported enclosure but it is bigger and I dont know if it would fit under the seat but I would definitely try if I would get much better performance.

 

Yup you can go by those specs but if it doesn't seem like it'll fit under the seat with proper space for the sub to move without hitting something you know have the recommended internal volume of .23cf, I'd build to around .27-28 to account for displacement, and you can build your own box with some mdf.

I'm not sure how that sub is going to do ported, if you have extra wood it'd be worth a try, but if not I wouldn't go out of your way to do it.

 

Well the manual says to use 2 inch pipe but Im not looking to go crazy just want something that sounds good. Do you have any tips on how to cut the MDF without getting burs on the edges. Would a table saw be the bet way to go.

 

Table saw or jig saw, then you can just take a piece of sand paper and clean up the edges if needed.

 

Ok Pizzaman so this afternoon I mocked up a box the same dimensions as stated above and it wouldn’t fit so I had to change up the design alittle bit and I’m not sure on how to figure the air space correctly, I need to know how wide to make it. I tried to upload a pic of the shape but couldn’t but I’ll try and describe it. The front height is 61/2", back Height is 4", bottom depth 113/4", top depth is 12 1/4", width ?

 

How thick is the wood your using?
How are you orienting the sub (is it forward firing or down firing)?

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
Try using that, scroll a little bit down until you get to the triangular enclosure one and you can plug in numbers until you get the right airspace.

If those are your external max dimensions above this is definitely going to be a tricky box to build without doing something to lift the seat up. Mostly due to the fact that if 6.5" is the max front the sub will be too tall to forward fire unless you push it out from the seat, and to down fire the sub has 4.75" of mounting depth, plus it needs at least a .5" behind it for the pole to vent, and 1.25-1.5" for it not to hit the floor or bottom of seat depending on orientation. So figure at using 1/2" wood thickness to save as much space as possible (definitely brace the corners if you go with that thickness) the box will need 6.5-6.75" at the most total height in certain spots if that makes sense.

So what the easiest route is, I think would be too make the box the tallest in the front, as tall as possible in the back, the depth as little as possible (probably around 9-9.5") and use the width for what airspace is still needed. Also don't forget if the only box design you can come up with ends up being too big you can throw some bracing in the box to take away some more airspace.

 

How thick is the wood your using?
How are you orienting the sub (is it forward firing or down firing)?

http://www.bcae1.com/spboxnew2.htm
Try using that, scroll a little bit down until you get to the triangular enclosure one and you can plug in numbers until you get the right airspace.

If those are your external max dimensions above this is definitely going to be a tricky box to build without doing something to lift the seat up. Mostly due to the fact that if 6.5" is the max front the sub will be too tall to forward fire unless you push it out from the seat, and to down fire the sub has 4.75" of mounting depth, plus it needs at least a .5" behind it for the pole to vent, and 1.25-1.5" for it not to hit the floor or bottom of seat depending on orientation. So figure at using 1/2" wood thickness to save as much space as possible (definitely brace the corners if you go with that thickness) the box will need 6.5-6.75" at the most total height in certain spots if that makes sense.

So what the easiest route is, I think would be too make the box the tallest in the front, as tall as possible in the back, the depth as little as possible (probably around 9-9.5") and use the width for what airspace is still needed. Also don't forget if the only box design you can come up with ends up being too big you can throw some bracing in the box to take away some more airspace.

 

Well crap I built the box already and it fits good under the seat but the space between the sub and the floor is only about 3/4". What is the bare minimum I could get away with and could this damage my sub?
In ny old truck (2003 f150) I had two 12" subs and in the middle of the truck where there is a hump half of one sub was actually touching the carpet and the other had maybe 1/2". I thought it was fine because those were installed by a shop, I guess they really didnt know what they were doing or didnt care.

 

How much of the sub is touching the carpet or how close is if so far? It can date the cons if it hits a lot and it'll hurt the sound too.

 

Sorry wasnt clear before my new box I just built the sub has about 3\4" clearance between the very top of the cone and the floor, I havent installed the sub yet. When I was building it it never crossed my mind that I would need that much space.

 

I think you'll be okay but once you install it you can watch it some to make sure nothing is wrong.

 

10-4 thanks pizzaman for all the help hopefully I can get this going by the weekend.