I have an 06 Supercrew and been doin some research on ported/vented sub enclosures before I start my build on an underseat ported/vented enclosure (fabbing a custom seat lift for this also) to house 2 10s. Ive seen many variations of these enclosures and was wondering what are the pros/cons of having a ported/vented enclosure that has both subs sharing the same chamber as opposed to having some sort of divider for each sub to have its own individual space? Also anyone know of any good general porting info', diy's, etc. on the forum or anywhere else?

 

What tens are you planning on running? I doubt you'll have enough room to port two with the required air space.

If your going to do it have them both share the same airspace so you don't need to extremely long ports. The more airspace equals shorter port. The magic tuning number is 34hz for deep bass.

If you go round port I would either run two 4" ports or one at least 6" to cut down on port noise. In a trunk you could get by with a smaller port somewhat but in the cab of the truck the port noise would definitely be audible. If you go slot port the rule is a 9:2 ratio for lower power subs (500rms or less) or 7:2 for more power subs or 5:2 for really high power subs (like 1500rms plus a piece), basically for every 9" it is tall it should be at least 2" wide, again to cut down on port noise. If you go square port I'd go with a 5x5" port.

To calculate the port length you'll need to figure out the inside airspace of the box, subtract the displacement of the subs, then plug it into a port length calculator with whatever port size/configuration you decide on and out will pop what length it needs to be. Google is your friend to find a calculator.

Be prepared to sit down and draw out designs, throw them out, and do it all over again for many many hours until you find what works for you man. Just remember the enclosure can make or break a subs sound, a great sub in a poorly designed box will sound worse then a poor sub in a greatly designed box.

Also definitely build the box out of 3/4" mdf, and you should include some bracing in the corners and something between the front baffle where the subs mount to whatever wall is behind it, box flex will not only hurt the sound but also in time will end up ripping apart the new box you just took all that time to build haha.

Good luck!

 

So, yea.... Where did you get these "golden rules"? Since, when is 34hz the magic number? Why brace the corners? Why a 5x5 port when running 10's vs a "9.2" slot?

Ive been at this a LOOONG time and have never heard these rules.

34hz is fairly common. But depending on woofer and sizing of the box the ripple and way the curve will play out, its very possible that it is NOT the correct tuning freq for the car. After all a ported enclosure can only play 1/2 oct below tuning freq before the woofer will act like a free air woofer and will have 0 suspension. In this case 25.5 Hz is the absolute lowest it can play.

The rule is normally between 1/4 and 1/6 the woofer area is needed for the port area. Now the thinner port you use, the more chance of chuffing. Also, 32" is a good number to stay under for port length.

Btw, the corners of a box are the STRONGEST part of any box. I normally will run a bead of glue over them just to make sure there are no leaks but the large flat areas are where the box has zero support and can flex. That can reduce the efficiency of the sub and depending on the application add noise or collapse the box (in extreme cases).

If the software is right, you should have a ported enclosure designed in less than 30min. 15 if you have done it before.

 

I said they were general rules, I never said which port to choose over the other I was just trying to give ideas of what id do to eliminate chuffing.

34hz is a great starting port tuning frequency. Read around, it's recommend on a lot of different car audio sites. To get to the right tuning frequency you'll have to build and rebuild boxes or make ports that are interchangeable, etc.

As for the 1/4 to 1/6 area are you saying my box I ran my skar 8's had too much port area because it was equal to about half of the total area of the subs?

You said basically the same thing I said about bracing, my reason for bracing corners is that's generally where wood likes to split if you put in screws too fast.

And so your saying you can design an underseat ported enclosure for this guy in under 15 minutes since you've been in the game a LOONGG time right? Go for it man, help a fellow member out since its basically no time out of your day.

 

Im pretty open for sub suggestions...been lookin for 2 d10" dvc 4 ohm subs in the 500-1000w rms range...ive looked at re, sundowns, massive audios, alpines, etc....wanna stay away from MOST of the mainstream brands. Any 2 10's suggested thatll do work ported with what I have to work with? And if my calculations are correct, with the seat lift im fabricating i can have somewhere between 1.8- a little of 2 ft^3 (thats if what ive been doin is corrrect, this is my first time in such a confined area! lol) and I have been drawing up many different designs but I wont know for sure until this seat lift is done...everything ive been doin is a rough estimate based on the current box I have without a lift which measures like 7.5" front height and 5" back height, my lift should free up another 3 in and may go more IF i have too. Only on occassion do I have people in the back seats so sacrificing ride height in the rear doesnt make a sh** to me! lol Like i said, Im no master at this yet and it will ALWAYS be a learning experience so im open for suggestions with havin 2 10s ported.

 

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ok, according to a calculator online im lookin at a VERY little of 2ft^3...

 

that would be AMAZING and GREATLY appreciated lol

 

that back seat will have to be pretty high. i had an lmi seat lift under mine with a box for 2 12's that would barely fit and it only had about 1.9 ft.^3 of air space. it was a sealed box. with that being said anyone about 6 ft. tall could hit their head on the roof sitting in the back if they sat all the way up.

 

Yea, but Im not too worried about the ride height for passengers in the back...its mostly just me and my girl in my truck and only during hunting season do I have passengers frequently. My lift im having fabbed up is going to lift the seat 3 to 3.5in so ill be looking at a lil over 2ft^3...this is all estimates based on my current "Crappy" pre-fabbed box and I may be able to squeeze a lil more cu. ft. depending on how I take advantage to the limited space and lil nooks under the seat. Anybody have any suggestions on 2 10s ported with that amount of space available? Ive found a few that require 1 or less cu.ft. per sub with 500w or better rms rating...just looking for suggestions.

 

Take a look at DC audio subs. They are competition subs that come in different levels. Says they only need .5ft sealed and 1ft ported for the level 2s. I really wanted to use the 10s in my new truck but they won't fit.

http://www.dcsoundlab.com/subsamps.html

 

hmmm those subs are intriguing...but, where do u buy them????? cant find them nowhere to check prices or nothing...

 

Ha yeah that's the hard part. There is a number somewhere to call about prices. I know one guy on another f150 forum use to be sponsored by them so he could get them for people but I think you have to call them direct.

 

damn, talkin about goin around your elbow lol but appreciate it dillon...ill definetly check them out more

 

just noticed your from jackson, ga...im about 30 min east west of savannah