I currrentl have the jl10 w1v2 4 ohms in a sub thump mdf encloosure. To change box and subs will be close to $500 with tax and shipping. Then I have to replace my amp, I am looking at two. One Is $319 the other is usually runs $649 I can get it cheaper 150 to 200 bucks less. its advertised new and in the box.

but this online reatailer has not so good ratings for recieved products! and customer service is about the same!



Would you change them? Be brutally honest that way I have an outsiders opinion

HLB

 

If I was gonna spend that much money, I wouldn't order from a company that has bad reviews. I definitely wouldn't wanna be out that much.

 

I agree.

 

any good feed back about the fox box using the 2-10"s model are the caps a problem


Thanks again

 

love my foxbox..........i have 2 RE Audio SEX10d4s @1 ohm in the 09 ported box...im running the RE 3000.1 amp...it says 1400 rms @1ohm....i did have to remove the plastic magnet covers on subs and make hole in box alittle bigger so they would fit...The box was 175 + shipping...have a few pics in gallery...

 

does anyone have exsperience with this set up the fox box with 2 10w3v3 4 it will be run by either 410 or 500 watts to each speaker. Does the box flex or rattle after a few years of pounding. The cups to allow the more depth on deeper speaker mounting sizes. If someone sits in the back seat will it be possable crush them in a normal environment. (no seat lift and a person weighing 250 or less) With silicone, and srews provided will that keep the cap air tight is there a certain type of silicone for this application?

 

hlb

 

I'm not gonna lie, I could barely understand what you just wrote. Some simple punctuation and capital letters goes a long way man..

 

yeah I know it was late and I was tired. I will make it short and sweet.

I want to change from 2 jl10w1v2 to 2 jl10w3v3 both are and will be 4 ohme drivers I am currently runing a 08ZX700.5, on the class D of the 700.5 it gives you 420 watts in the mono position.th two drivers are in a subthump box .64 per side the jlwi req .625 and is a shallow mooun 4.43 i think

now on the jl10w3v3 4 ohme they also need .625 inner speaker box volume. I want to run the fox acoustic witch has .65 inter box volume its the 2 ten version box. Its not wod though its composite. I will try the 10w3's with the 700.5 if it needs more power. I am going to buy the IZ1000.5 and it gives you 500 watts in mono position

anyone with good or bad feeed back on the 2004 to 2008 fox box for 2 10's or the jl10w3v3 4 ohme please let me know it will be greatly appreciated

HLB

 

Ah okay that definitely cleared it up. Even though the fox box's aren't composite they'll still hold up, I don't see it breaking or cracking or anything under that kind of power.

 

since we have been pretty much the only two on this post. You would go with the Ix1000.5 and the jl1w3v3 4 ohmes with the fox acoustic box. One cool thing that I have is the zx750.5 stil works so i could test the 10w3v3 4 ohmes load to see how they do with th new fox box then if it needs more I can go to the Ix1000.5 thanks again i will let u know how it all works out. I think it is going to hit realy realy hard cuz my jl 10w1v2 4 ohmes hit like mad but my highes are just a little more overpowering on some songs. Again thanks again sory I am on alot of meds for crohn"s disease and i know what i want to type it just does not come out right 17 scripts and 50 pills a day. Its life as i know it today. Mine is not so healthy. The only thing I dont like about the IX1000.5 is in mono it gives 250 watts when u combine the front channels and my speakers top out at 180 maz i could add some nice mid base in the rear door but more $ my meds suck up most of my money but as far as the class d in the IX1000.5 it is solid 500 to each 10 when run in 2 ohmes mono? i know i can turndown the gain and the 10w3 need 300 comtinuious to be happy and max out at 500 watts and the zx700.5 gives 165 mon at 2 ohm load on the 4 high and mid channels and the class d puts out 420 at 2 ohmes an mono position

 

when the tern "The big three is used " what does that mean. I know three parts need to be up graded I am running 4 gauge poer wire to a 100 amp breaker switch and the amplifier. The ground is 4 gauge and connected to the frame I grounged it so the ground should be good, Alt Puts out 13.8 to 14.4, just got new yellow top battery voltage is at 12.3 to 12.7 when truck is not running and the alarm is only on. I trickle chargrd the yellow top to optimas 13.1 specs before puting it in the truckpep boys has a battery ground in the 4 awg in various lengths and it also comes with a post connector. I bought a 7 inch in the dash and removed the kicker EQ so all that is left is the amp ,alt and neg battery wire I thinkthat ford uses the 4 awg for there negatice connection to the battery and when I use my test light the only way i get a groung is connecting directly to the negative side of battery my truck wont pick up ground unless I ground directly to the battery is the truck ground poassably not a perfecr groung from the battery.I have engine noise thats why i have mentioned to you about replacing the zx700.5. We checked all the major components some we isolated others we ran a ground to the battry nothin changeds like i said earlier alt amp and battery cable have not been replaced. Alt is putting out 13.8 to 14.4. Are there diodes in the alt that could have gone bad and that is the source of the noise is? if u get it right ukk be the first one on over a two year chasing and my installer has been installing for 20 years I hah the same thing with him on a 1988 for mustang gt removed a octive eq problem went away but the truck nothing and the amp is installed on back wall. My installer just used screws with nothing between the amp or the back of the cab to isolate the amps metal from the trucks metal he told me it was not necessary cuxthe electronics in the new amps have circutry to omit that interfearence that use to ne a problemWhats ur take on this pos noise

Thanks bro


mark

P.S. I have spoke to 4 different guys on this site that do stereo installs for a living and they are stumpped also, Wtf pos I am at a loss, No sound comps till I get it fixed

 

I used to use 2 JL w1 10" in the past. upgraded to a set of Adire Kodas in the Attrend box and that was a huge upgrade. The W1 just doesn't have much displacement at all at 9mm xmax. The Kodas have 20mm, over twice the output.

Then I stepped up to the 12" BMs and those blew away the Kodas.

So yeah I think an upgrade will be worth it.

 

The big three is the last thing you do before adding a second battery. If your running 4 gauge its most likely not needed considering you do the big three with 1/0. It's alternator to battery, battery to frame, and engine ground to frame. Also I wouldn't trust a circuit breaker as your main line of defense, they're known not to trip right away.

 

Thank for your input i appreciate it