Hi, everyone im new to this sight and had a few questions for you all. First off I am wanting to buy a JL Audio 13TW5-3 13.5" shallow mount sub but cant find an enclosure... which I know I could always buy a 12" enclosure and cut it out. Secondly I was looking at a JL audio HD750/1 amp, does anyone know of another options that are still quality products? Also what do you need to be able to have it running off of the factory HU? I plan on getting an alpine nav system, would it be a lot cheaper to get all of this together rather than waiting to get it at a later time?

 

any stereo shop can make you a custom enclosure for that sub. i had that same JL13 and had the guys at my audio place make me an enclosure to fit under the rear seat of my SCREW. i was running it off a JL 500/1 amp.

here are a few pics of it.




didnt care for that sub at all though so its been replaced with a ported probox with 2-8" subs running off the same JL 500/1 amp. sounds a hundred times better in my opinion.

 

Hey milt how have you been bro from my exsperience the jlwovi will work great in the shpercrew box in fact if i am not mistaken u can get a 10w3v3 inthe supercrew for you year truck i believe it has the depth u need to make a good clean install just my
.02centes have a good one my friend HLB

 

whats up buddy!? long time no talk. I have been great. Hope you and the truck are doing well also.

i have already replaced that JL13 setup with 2-8" image dynamics subs in a ported "black box". it is a replica of the "probox" and the image dynamic subs are much better than the probox subs that come in their loaded boxes. i know because i had the 2-8" probox subs in the ported probox in my 2005 4x4. lol. i was just posting pics of that old JL13 setup for the OP. have a good one bud!

 

whats up buddy!? long time no talk. I have been great. Hope you and the truck are doing well also.

i have already replaced that JL13 setup with 2-8" image dynamics subs in a ported "black box". it is a replica of the "probox" and the image dynamic subs are much better than the probox subs that come in their loaded boxes. i know because i had the 2-8" probox subs in the ported probox in my 2005 4x4. lol. i was just posting pics of that old JL13 setup for the OP. have a good one bud!

here are a few pics of my current setup.

 

Milt IV, i talked to probox on the phone and they said that their probox with the dual 8" subs for my 2008 crew cab was probably the hardest hitting thing on the market. True or false?...i am wanting something that hits hard and clean. My father has a JL 13.5 in his 2011 crewcab and it hits good....any suggestions? opinions?

 

it is true. i had the probox with the dual 8s for the 04-08 in my 05 and it was awesome. it is the reason that i am running the setup i have now in my 2010.

 

Just wondering, do the 8''s sound better, hit harder than the JL13? What made you switch?

 

A ported box will typically have a hump in the response around 35-45hz, can make for a fatter sound... and will play louder and lower than a sealed box. All depending on the enclosure size and tuning of course.

 

IMO the 8s sound cleaner and they have a much tighter punch to them than the 13" does. I think the tight punch hits harder than the extended bass note the 13" provides.

 

been good milt everything has been great towed the boat over the summer for a 600 mile round trip bags worked great. Your truck is lookin really nice bro everything you do is very clean. I am thinking if going to the air struts up front for shows add the shackle in the back it should be like a 6x8 drop will tuck tire in front and rear. Have a good one milt ttyl
Mark
HLB

 

Nate
if you are going to do the 13.5tw which i highly recommend...you need to think about options. I own http://www.jlaudio.com/cs113tg-tw5-c...-systems-93255 I had my stereo guy put little runners on the face of this box and have it facing down with a 500/1 jl amp with a bass ****...you must get the bass **** regardless i don't care which way you go. I have always had two 10's with a clarion head unit in my old 04' f150 i was pretty happy witht hat set up. I didnt know what i was missing... I giot the wedge for $400 bucks if you have someone build a box they better know what they are doing because if it isnt perfect it will sound like a pos... this thing hits so hard and so tight and i havent even replaced my head unit in my 2011 supercrew yet. the hd750 is what they tried recommending but i already had the 500/1 and it rocks it. you could even add another wedge later on but you wont need it. if you want to jump up to the stealthbox for a $1000 I am sure that gets a tad better but you wont notice it...i could be wrong. Just make sure you buy the truck wedge and not something someone tries to build...it wont work right. just remember bass **** it is a must have I can take a pic of my settings on the amp and email you some pics if you want...

 

Bumping an almost one year old thread for that? Bass ***** first off are horrible for your subs, they'll end up damaging them because they allow you to turn it up too far and send clipped signals. And you don't need a 400 dollar box for it to sound good, anyody with a calculator, and basic woodworking skills can build a box that'll sound just as good for 30 bucks. And the 13tw5 is a great sub but the alpine type r shallow kinda puts it to shame for the price difference of the two.

 

...didnt realize the date on the thread. I do apologize....bass ***** actually let you shape the bass without having to edit controls for each song especially if your range of music is broad...I have had bass ***** for 10 years not one problem and I didnt pay $400 for the box it included the 13.5tw5 and the type r flat sub is quite close in price to the JL but if you are a frugal shopper you can find deals...I don't actually think you have had owned both subs and have them in your own truck to know the differences. imho

 

Guys, Guys, Guys. First of all. Everything depends on the type of Bass ****. There are level *****, gain *****, and boost *****.

1) Level *****. (PAC LC-1) This is a **** that splits the RCA's going to the amp. If it is set correctly this is the most safe. This should be set with full open being a correctly set amplifier. All this will do is attenuate the RCA signal going to the amplifier and slowly mute the subs or give them the full RCA signal.

2) Gain *****. (Kicker Amps) This is a **** that will override the amplifier settings as far as Gain is controlled on the amplifier. This is not a safe ****. As the **** is cranked as is the gain on the amplifier. With improper use this will clip speakers and lead to blown drivers.

3) Boost *****. (RF Amps) This is a **** that overrides the boost settings on the amplifier. This will add boost in the (depending on the make) 35 - 45hz range in a parametric fashion (boosting the surrounding freqs logarithmically). This is a VERY dangerous bass ****. Because when all levels are set correctly the amplifier will put a clean signal to the drivers across the board. When boost is added it will send a combination of clipped and non-clipped signals to the driver. And can be much harder to hear the clipped signal with it clipping on certain freqs only. THIS **** WILL DESTROY DRIVERS, if used incorrectly. I do not recommend this **** under any circumstances unless levels are set to expect for a full cranked ****. This may mean that gain is set to a minimum and that the boost is the only thing that you will hear out of your subs.

Keep in mind I am a current RF dealer, ex-Kicker dealer (many times over) and a current PAC dealer. These products I used are examples of the types and have seen the issues with many many many times. Many other manufacturers do use those types of bass *****. Please, do your due diligence and figure out before buying (if you MUST have one) which bass **** type they use. And if you need one, pick up the PAC LC-1. This is the only one I personally back and backed BEFORE I was a dealer.