Coming home from Afghanistan in November and looking to do some more mods (naturally) haha. I was going to get a 5.0 as a project but rather than throw money at a second vehicle I'll just keep making the daily more enjoyable. Now I'm going to get some new guns and make my drive to work a bit more pleasant.

My budget is $2K. Installation shouldn't be an issue I have a decent knowledge of electronics/wiring but what I lack is experience with stereos. I'm looking at replacing the front speakers with components (I like Focal but am open to other comparable quality) and a decent sub setup. I'd like to keep the stock head unit but if it makes more sense to replace it I'm not opposed. I have sync but no other audio upgrade and would like to keep my sync features (mainly the bluetooth and voice activated dialing/steering wheel buttons since it's all I really use). I'd really like to keep the total cost under $2K so that will include wiring/installation kits and sub box and capacitor if necessary. A good well rounded set up is the ultimate goal since the stock system leaves much to be desired. Thanks for any help and suggestions and I'll keep browsing through threads for ideas.

 

If your going to keep your stock head unit, get a metra bt 5520 wiring harness and it will retain all of your sync and steering wheel controls. also if you keep the stock head unit get an lc6i line out converter so you can hook up your amps to it.
If your looking for good components that arent going to break the bank but still sound really good you should check out the massive audio ck6III's, thats what i have. Langlowe also has them but he is running focal tweets with the massive mids. there is a lot of good build threads on here to check out and get ideas from.

 

Thanks! I suppose the most useful recommendation is where/how to mount all of this. I've seen some of the setups on here with custom boards built but I'm not much of a carpenter. Most people don't really post the total build cost in their thread as well so that's another large curiosity of mine. Appreciate the advice on the components.

 

I'll try to make this less painful and noobish in hopes of soliciting more recommendations.

As far as power considerations go I'd be willing to upgrade my battery but keep the alternator stock.
I'll be looking to use one 10 or one 12 in a pre-fabbed box and will try to mount the amps on the other side of the seat.
I'll use an LC6I and keep the stock head unit.
I'll definitely replace the front speakers with components but would like recommendations on whether or not to replace the rears.
Would two amps be necessary if I replace just the fronts and include one sub?
With wiring, the LC6I, pre-fab box, and converter for the sync my budget is now around $1500 for sub, components, and amp(s).

What would you all recommend for the remaining components and would a capacitor be necessary?
What're the thoughts on dynamat? Worth the time and effort to remove interior parts?
Thanks again for any and all advice and comments.

 

I'd also prefer not to use a seat lift and minimize the ammount of interior modifications. I understand this will impact my choice of woofer and would like recommendations for this option. Thanks again.

 

A $2K budget, man a lot of guys would like to upgrade with that kind of budget. You will definitely be able to get some great sounding tunes.

I believe you have a 72Ah battery already with the 2010's (650 CCA). That is actually a pretty decent sized group 65 battery. No reason to replace it. If you plan to play a fair amount of music with engine off or have lights/AC/cooled seats running at idle draining your battery, then I would suggest to get an auxillary battery instead of replacing the OEM. Don't mess around with a CAP, only on rare occasions will they help. An aux battery will help in almost all situations.

Plenty of pre-fabbed boxes available for underseat. I built my own for a fraction of the cost (no carpentry skills either) but check out www.supercrewsound.com. They will be able to provide you something you won't be dissappointed. You do need to pay attention to mounting depth and enclosure volume - match them as close as possible. There are also eBay models and most of them will be able to fit decent sized subs w/o doing a seat lift.

As far as subs, look at the Alpine R's, SI BM KIII (what I have), Image Dynamics, and maybe Sundowns. They are all reasonably priced, great reputation and are geared more to sound quality than SPL - though some of these really thump. If you want to stick with a minimal enclosure look at the first two subs which are considered slimlines. The ID's or Sundowns may not fit w/o a seat lift, check out the supercrewsound site for spec's.

Ideally, mount the amps off the back wall. You don't need anything special. A square piece of 1/2" MDF or plywood works. If you can't cut a square piece then getting something installed for you may not be a bad idea. There are installers out there that put in some very nice tunes for under $2K. It keeps your truck looking stock, I believe a cleaner install plus gives you back that underseat storage. Many of us have 2 subs on the back wall, I've seen up to 4 in our MY trucks, it isn't that hard.

As far as LOC's, there are alot of them. Depending on what you are trying to achieve and experience level or desire to tinker kind of steers where you want to go. For most tinkering, adjustment abilities RF3sixty, JL Cleansweep though I think they are not available until next version. These are sweet for time settings and other special functions particularly nice when amping individual speakers, multiple amp setups, etc.

Mid level LOC's, look at LC6i, MTX Req and the Maxxsonics MX-1 (the one I ended up getting).

Lower level there the PAC's and basic ebay versions which frankly stay away from since your budget should grant you something above a base system though some of the PAC interfaces work really good.

Yes, components up front. If you haul rear passengers that are sound newb's, then upgrade the rear speakers. I didn't and the new fronts filled the cab plenty with great sound. I run my fade like at 80% front/20% rear and never touched my rear speakers. If I ever do plan to replace my rears, I might go with some mid's instead and running them off their own amp.

As far as front comp's, many many choices and plenty of price ranges. Ideally, is at least to try and test some out at a store to get a feel of what you like. Also, browse thru a few audio sites to look at what is available. A good sight I used alot was woofersetc. Here is their listing for 6.5" comps:

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-40-65.aspx

So many brands, focal obviously, Hertz, Rainbow, Alpine, Morel, ID CXS's. Just look at the spec's and match them properly to your amp. There are plenty more so don't just get hung up on what I've mentioned. But at least the above is what I would look at spec wise and pricing to get an idea. They make comp's in your price range which I would stick with $150 - $350.

You could get away with just one amp. A strong 4 channel amp w/ 2 channels bridged for your sub will work. However, to get something powerful enough to run a sub and front comp's that is a quality unit will cost you and really eat into your budget. I believe you will be able to spend less on two subs dedicated and have much more available power output. There are just as many amps available that will work. Mounting two subs isn't much harder than one.

I did my own install and spent right around $2K, but all my extra's (wire, wire sheathing, battery terminals, fusing, etc) were over the top. Definitely check out some build threads to get an idea of what other stuff you'll need and start working on a budget. You'll find that they will end up costing quit a bit.

Already mentioned about the CAP, scratch it off the list.

Part of my $2K install was using a dynamat like material on the door skins and rear wall. You can easily spend a decent coin on components but if your install is a hack, those quality pieces won't sound they way they should. I believe you really do need to invest into sound dampening and sound proofing. There are many materials available. Look at Secondskinaudio and Sounddeadenershowdown. I purchased the more expensive versions and likely didn't need go that route.

I'm really only touching the surface and I'm sure others will fill in. I also left my stock HU and w/o noticing the very small sub enclosure under the 40 split rear seat, nobody would know what I have. Hoping others can chime in. Do a little research (check out builds), put together a build list and run it by us - give us the type of music you like, might be able to steer into a preferrable sound direction for type of music. If you want some reading, go to DIYaudio, will be able to read forever.

 

Very nice Storm. That is one of the best recommendations for a complete install I have read on here.

OP
Everything that Stormsearch said is spot on.

I will divulge and breakdown the total cost in my system. I did not buy everything new in box.

Front stage was Focal 165VR = $299
One of the Focal mids spider tore
Sold the Focal mids for - $50.
Someone got a steal on that.
New price for Front stage = $249

Bought Massive Audio Ck6 component set = $180
Kept the mids sold everthing else - $70
New price just for mids = $110

Active front stage is Focal TNB tweeters with Massive Audio Ck6 mids

Total to date for front stage = $359

Rear stage
Focal 165CA1 = $150

Sub stage
Was single Image Dynamics ID10D4 used = $90
Supercrewsound box = $140
Total for sub stage = $230

Sold ID10 for - $80
New price for sub stage = $150

Bought SI BM MKIII for $250
Bought SI BM MKIII for $240
Box build (three times) wood and stuff = $150
Total for SI BM MKIII = $640

Total to date for substage = $790

Amps
Had Kicker 500.1. Broke even when I sold it = $0
Clarion XH5410 around 4x100 (tweeters and rear fill) used = $180
Sundown SAZ-1000D (subs at 1ohm) used = $200
Sundown SAX-125.2 (> 125 to mids) used = $150
Total to date for amps = $530

LOC
Audiocontrol LC6i = $50 "eBay snipe"

Wiring and Misc
Kicker RCAs = $50
Knukoncepts 1/0ga 4ga power and ground = $150
Metra BT-5520 = $39
Stinger 9wire 25ft = $30
Stinger 16ga Speaker wire 150ft = $45
10 and 12ga sub speaker wire = $20
Stinger 1/0ga inline fuse = $40
Stinger fused distro block = $35
Stinger ground distro block = $20
Misc part and pieces = $40
2ft x 4ft 1/2 MDF for amp rack "four times" = $40
Sound deadening so far and I have more to do = $100
Wiring and misc = $609

Total to date on what is currently install is $3057 and some change.

Keep in mind that I have changed things up and spent more than I should have.


Now on to your the fun stuff.
I would say that for the sub stage in a 2010 screw you really have two choices without a seat lift.

Two nice SQ 10 inch subs.
With the supercrews box I would recommend two Image Dynamics ID10D4 subs. No modifications to the box required. You will need to remove the magnet cover off the subs but that is easy enough.

This setup will use the entire floor under that back seat and cost about about $420 for the setup.

Wire them to one ohms and get a nice mono amp that does 1000watts at 1ohm.


This would sound really good but there is better.

Alpine type R slims.
I would like to recommend the Stereo Integrity BM MKIIIs but it is almost impossible to find them now.
With the Alpines you would be better off making your own box. You could fit both of them under just the 60 portion of the back seat still giving a little storage room.

Cost would be $299 per sub and about 50 in materials for the box. So total would be around $650.

The Alpines are single voice 4ohm so two would be wired at 2ohm.
Get a monster mono amp that does at least 1200 at 2ohm and you will not be disappointed.

Keep in mind if you go Alpine type Rs then you will need a really hefty set of front components to keep up with them.

I have done price comparisons on deadener and SecondSkin and Sounddeadnershowdown are really close in price. Don't get the cheap "low quality" stuff.

Check out sounddeadnershow.com and read about what he recommends. You can save quite a bit in using the 25% method in coverage. Although it looks really cool to have a complete sheet of shiny aluminum.

 

awesome! thanks a ton for the input you guys. definitely some useful information without using the capacitor.

i'll throw one more option in here and then i'll stop asking questions until i get back and actually start getting stuff installed...

What about the option of a professionally installed system with sound deadening and no sub(s)?
So the option would be going to a local shop and getting
Front Components
Rear Speakers (I rarely drive people around and listen to music)
Amp
LC6I
Wiring
Sound Deadening

I could stick with the budget but what're your opinions on building a system without subs?

I cannot thank you guys enough for the ammount of time you spent on your responses and the help this gives! Much appreciated for sure.

 

That is definitely an option. If you go that route, make sure they run a big enough power wire for another amp, likely 1/0 or 4AWG (don't let them run 8AWG - that size is fine for a single or two smaller amps).

The easiest to mount the amp is under the seat - you will likely not have enough room for another amp with a sub. Therefore, have them mount the comp amp on the back wall with a big enough board to add a second amp. It will cost more in labor but not that much and give you room to easily add a second amp.

What kind of music do you like and how loud? I don't think honestly you would be happy putting in that kind of dough and not get some base out of it. I have Hertz comps and they handle some decent base, but no where near what my sub offers. There is a lot of music played at the lower frequencies.

One thing a good installer will setup for you are the gains and freq. cut off's. If you put in the subs yourself, keep in mind the previous setup should be changed for ideal sound. Most installers will custom build a box for you about the same price or cheaper as you can buy online - what is nice is it is custom made for your truck and selected subwoofer. I still think you can get something installed with a very decent system for $2K with a sub.

Make sure the installer you use has good references and at least able to check a few of them out beforehand. Just like any other business, there are good ones and hacks.

 

This seems like the best route to go. I'd rather see that it's done right then run the risk of dropping thousands of dollars and then have to spend more fixing my truck haha. Once again I appreciate the advice and I'll update this when I get back to let you guys know what I went with.

 

The problem with letting a shop do your install is the amount of money you are going to spend.

Most shops charge a lot more for installs if you bring your own equipment. Turns out to not be a very good deal.

You could easily run your own cables, install deadner, install speakers, and wire into the stock head unit and save quite a bit of cash. There are plenty of build threads with almost step by step instructions.

Building an amp rack that goes on the back wall is super easy. It is pretty much a rectangle made out of 1/2 or less piece of mdf or plywood. Jigsaw or circular saw is all you need. Unless you are looking for a super clean look route all over cables on the top and make sure they are secured every 8 or less inches.

Running cables from the front to back is also super easy. The sill plates just pop off along with every panel you need to access. The hardest part is fishing power cable throught the firewall.

I would really try to do as much as you can yourself. Then take all the saved cash and get your subs.

As Storm has said 2k will get you a very nice system. Go used on some of the hard parts like amps and save even more. Car audio forums classifieds are your best friend.

I would not buy any high end front components from eBay. To much counterfitting going on.

Here is just a sample system. I am not vouching on how it would sound but the brands are quality. All prices are for new excluding the LC6i.

I used the following sites for research. Better prices are more than likely available.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com
http://www.woofersetc.com
http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com


Fronts = $319
Rainbow SLC 6.5

rears = $135
Rainbow SLC 5x7

4 channel amp = $250
JBL GTO1004

mono amp = $225
JBL GTO7001

LC6i = $100
eBay special on this one.

subs = $280
x2 Image Dynamics ID10 D2 V.3

sub box = $150
supercrewsound.com

power cable = $130
KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge Dual Amp Power Kit

9 conductor wire = $30
20ft Stinger 9 Conductor Speedwire

door speakers speaker cable = $30
x2 Stinger SGW516BC 50FT 16GA Twisted Speaker Re-Wiring Wire Roll

sub speaker wire = $15
10ft Stinger SPW512BK 12 Gauge Black

Rcas = $30
x3 KnuKonceptz Karma SS 2 Channel 1 Meter RCA Cable

Wiring harness = $50
Metra BT-5520

sound deadner = $100
sounddeadenershowdown.com

misc = $50
amp board, screws, cable ties, hold downs.

Total = $1894

 

I'll be soliciting the help of a buddy of mine who used to be a mechanic before he joined the military. He's not a stereo guy either but he knows enough about working on vehicles to keep me from damaging something. We'll put our heads together and come up with the best option. Thanks again for all of the advice gentlemen.

 

You be safe until you get back stateside