I have a sub question
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From: Centex
Timelessr1, Msall150, I appreciate your input on this subject, you guys have been super informative.
I have looked at the ID 10's, and with those I would not even need to cut the box at all. Do you think that I would have to add a riser to the bottom of the face of the box (sub side) for the larger throw of the sub? I am not against it at all. Just want to make sure that if I go that route, which, if I change subs anyways, I will go with a larger throw. By the way, those 10W1's were hitting today, with the non polyfilled box, but again, got the volume up and you could here it hit it's limit, pretty quick. The do sound great though, at a lower volume. But like everyone at one time or another, I want to be able to show off at the appropriate time, and these 10W1's will not do it for me.
I have looked at the ID 10's, and with those I would not even need to cut the box at all. Do you think that I would have to add a riser to the bottom of the face of the box (sub side) for the larger throw of the sub? I am not against it at all. Just want to make sure that if I go that route, which, if I change subs anyways, I will go with a larger throw. By the way, those 10W1's were hitting today, with the non polyfilled box, but again, got the volume up and you could here it hit it's limit, pretty quick. The do sound great though, at a lower volume. But like everyone at one time or another, I want to be able to show off at the appropriate time, and these 10W1's will not do it for me.
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Yes, you will need to add a little space under the box for the increased excursion of the ID subwoofers. I had to do the same with the Kodas when I used them in that box.
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From: North NJ
ID's reputaion has been great from the start so between the two...id go ID
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Dayton builds a lot of OEM speakers for home audio companies. Their speakers are cheap to buy since they are OEM, but they have extremely high build quality (much higher than that of most mainstream audio equipment with marked up pricing).
As far as your question, the Dayton HO10 is a fantastic woofer. It plays best in ~.5 sealed or .7 ported tuned to 30Hz. For your sealed box, the ID will still provide you with more output from increased excursion. If you had just a single 10" box, adding an external port and using the Dayton driver would be a very sweet setup.
As far as your question, the Dayton HO10 is a fantastic woofer. It plays best in ~.5 sealed or .7 ported tuned to 30Hz. For your sealed box, the ID will still provide you with more output from increased excursion. If you had just a single 10" box, adding an external port and using the Dayton driver would be a very sweet setup.
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From: Lubbock, TX
Timelessr1, Msall150, I appreciate your input on this subject, you guys have been super informative.
I have looked at the ID 10's, and with those I would not even need to cut the box at all. Do you think that I would have to add a riser to the bottom of the face of the box (sub side) for the larger throw of the sub?
I have looked at the ID 10's, and with those I would not even need to cut the box at all. Do you think that I would have to add a riser to the bottom of the face of the box (sub side) for the larger throw of the sub?
Brad
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From: Centex
So you have not had to modify the box at all, or the seat mounting position? I am assuming that you just stuck the box where it needed to go, and that's it? If so, then this looks like the way to go for me. The ID's, seem to be highly rated by lots of forums, especially DIYMA.
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From: Centex
So I am going to go ahead and buy a couple of ID10D4's, and I am assuming that running them in parallel, is the way to go. Also, the JL Audio 500/1 setting to start with? What is a good starting point when setting up a sub for the first time, and how do you properly break in a sub, so it's life is long and strong?
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From: Slidell, LA
Marc, come on bro.... I taught you better that that.... 
You can get 2 subs w/ D4 ohm coils and wire it to 4 ohms. It will just be a series parallel config.
A JL 500/1 is NOT stable at 1ohm. It will give 500wRMS from 1.6ohms to 4ohms. Run a search with the Keywords: L.P H.P A.P Gai..ns. Do not include the periods in the words of that. I did that so this thread will not show up in the search list.
You can get 2 subs w/ D4 ohm coils and wire it to 4 ohms. It will just be a series parallel config.
A JL 500/1 is NOT stable at 1ohm. It will give 500wRMS from 1.6ohms to 4ohms. Run a search with the Keywords: L.P H.P A.P Gai..ns. Do not include the periods in the words of that. I did that so this thread will not show up in the search list.
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From: Lubbock, TX
So you have not had to modify the box at all, or the seat mounting position? I am assuming that you just stuck the box where it needed to go, and that's it? If so, then this looks like the way to go for me. The ID's, seem to be highly rated by lots of forums, especially DIYMA.
Caveat: If I really push the sub I the box will buzz against the seat pan. Some folks solve this by hammering the seat pan into submission. Since I am loath to go around whacking the hell out of my truck I solve it by simply pulling the box out a couple of inches (like only three or four. Doesn't take much). For day-to-day stuff it doesn't bother me at all. Plus, all it takes is a few seconds to shove the box back into place if I intend to carry passengers, and I haven't banged big-*** dents into the bottom of my pristine seats.
Brad