I've picked up a Probox FSC110DF (Single 10", .6 cu ft, Max Mounting Depth, 5.75"). Downward firing, under rear seat of course. In a 2001 F150 Supercrew, Sony HU, CDX-GT410U
specs here: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GT41...U.html?tp=5684

I have a Alpine MRP-M350 amp to go with it.
Specs on that are here:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPM...ures_and_specs

I'm mostly a metal/hard rock kind of listener, and I'd like to feel the kick drum in my chest, but I don't care if the next car can't hear it.

What would be a good recommendation for a sub? I'd like to stay with the amp I have, as I can't really blow too much money on this right now. Is there any hope for good hard base on the cheap?

Also, what to replace the stock 6x8 stock door speakers (4) for under $200? Would I need yet another amp to drive these? If so, a very cheap amp. I might be able to upgrade everything at one time, again I just need recommendations? What am I looking, highest rms to my XXX brand subwoofer?

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

You need a 2 ohm SVC or a 4 ohm DVC, this would work: http://www.woofersetc.com/p8142/REFT...-Subwoofer.htm

Leave the rear speakers, spend your money on a decent set of components for the front doors and a small two channel amp. Pioneer Premier TS-D720C and Phoenix Gold RSD65CS are some good low budget options.

 

Thanks, I'll check those out, I can get upto 350 watts @ 2ohm of my amp (there are no 2ohm versions of the speaker), and my space is .6 (I think the ID sub wants .75) is that close enough?

 

If you wire a 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil sub in parallel it creates a 2 ohm load.

If the box doesn't come with it, you can buy some poly fill at walmart and stuff it in the box, it'll make the sub "think" the box is bigger.

 

For the time being, I'd go with a pair of 3-way coaxial speakers for the front if you're looking to better your music without busting your bank. My $60 Pioneer 3-ways soung good for the moment. Just make sure you know how to tune the bass out of your doors! You really won't need an amplifier to drive your door speakers unless you want your music to be cleaner at louder audio levels.

As for your subwoofer, go for any slim subwoofer that you can get a deal on. I have Rockford P3 shallows, I hate them but some people love them. I'm a huge fan of the Pioneer shallows, available in a 2ohm configuration for about $90 @ sonicelectronix. It actually retuires about 350Wrms. The thing with those is they need far less space than your box has. If your bass sounds kinda flat, then you can glue blocks in the box the decrease internal volume and give a tighter "thud" to the bass.

 

thanks for the posts/recommendations, a friend actually gave me a 10" sub (planet audio? never heard of them, but he told me it was a good brand). anyway's it a single voice coil, and definitely doesn't sound the way I want it to, but will tide me over til I purchase a DVC 10. Shallow subs (i don't have much experience with ANY audio equipment) just don't look like they would hit very good. I've got a good deal on a set of JBL components for the front, so shortly my setup will be complete.

 

A couple of weeks ago I put a shallow 10" Kenwood in the back of a Mini Cooper S. Trust me, they hit nice! They, like other subwoofers, just need the right power and enclosure. DVC is really nothing more special than a single voice coil. DVC just offers more wiring options. What you want is to run the most power out of your amplifier. If your amp is 2ohm stable, get a subwoofer with a single 2ohm voice coil, or with dual 4ohm voice coil so you can wire them parallel into a 2ohm load. If your amplifier is 1ohm stable, get a single 1ohm voice coil subwoofer (which I don't even think exists) or get a dual 2ohm subwoofer and wire them parallel into a 1ohm load. This way you can run the most power our of your amplifier and tune with plenty of headroom or just feed your sub more power for more volume.