Just started ordering stuff, so I figured I may as well start a build/selection thread.

Truck: 2006 Lariat Scab, Audiophile MP3/CD6, Sirius
Goals: Sound Quality, Keep OEM Head Unit, Budget $750

Current Plan (I'll edit to keep it up to date):

Head Unit: Stock Audiophile MP3/CD6 w/ Sirius
Harnesses: Metra 70-5520 (to truck), 71-5520 (reverse) - $15 ORDERED
LOC for Fronts: DavidNavone N-RHL2 - $30 IN HAND
Front Stage: Pioneer Premier TS-D720C 6.75" Comps - $120 ORDERED
Rear Stage: None
Sub Stage: Peerless 830876 10" XXLS Subwoofer 4 Ohm - $125 IN HAND
Sub Box: Qlogic Qcustom Sealed .65cf - $50 IN HAND
Amp: Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X4R - 100Wx2 at 4 ohms to front stage - 300Wx1 at 4 ohms to sub stage - $200 - IN HAND
Wiring: Knuconcepts Kolossus 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit, Klear Kable Blue Speaker wire: 10 AWG - 3 ft and 12 AWG extra 20ft - ~$70 IN HAND
Dampening: Still debating ~ $200
Estimated Total ~$810

Cost Tally (Shipping & Tax included):
Amp $198.68 - Ebay Refurbished
Comps $122.23 - Amazon New
Wire/Acc $71.73 - knuconcepts New
Sub box - $50 Used
LOC - $30.95 - davidnavone.com New
Harnesses - $13.47 - Ebay New
Sub - $123.96 - Parts-Express.com New

Comments/Recommendations Appreciated.

 

The plan looks like you have thought this out pretty well. None of the things listed are bad, especially for a budget minded build. I think it would all work together and sound better than stock. Your amp will be able to let you time-align the sides to get better sound, and a center image.

If I were making changes, this is where:

I dumped my factory 6 disc almost immediately, found a killer deal on a double din. If this is what you need, this sounds fine.

This is a personal thing, but here is my take...
I would be running active. If you are wanting to keep factory locations you will have good luck doing so. This is NOT for everyone, so take that as it is. I say good luck, because you can work with the extreme off axis of your driver side mounting of speakers. Probably not cure-able, but you can make it better.

That said, if I was getting a passive set in this price range I would probably jump to the pioneer TS-D720's, or save up for the PRS set. But really, the ID OEM mids I had were OK, and I hear their tweets arent bad. If you can find a PPI 356CS set, those had a lot of hype for a while.

Seems reasonable. old GTO's are hard to find (I have looked for the shallow ones - have not modeled the new ones) but I doubt the quality dropped.

OR, a perfect active amp to go with a sub amp too...
If this is the copper wire, good call
When you say dampening, what do you mean? I have slowly been using less and less CLD products and have been moving more towards blocking. Check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi and read up a bit. You may find a better way to spend 200 bucks than just on CLD.


If it were me (and again, I have personal preferences, not the right way to do it...)

200 X4r (I have one in the garage for my truck too )
Active running
52 - pair of http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index....b2bffd9a3ffa3d
68 - pair of http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1466
50 qlogic box
60 this sub - take a vacuum to the dust cap and no one will see it anyways.
40 wiring adapters
50 wiring kit
70 US Acoustics USB 2100 for sub

And spend the last 160 bucks on some tiles and foam from Don, and finding some MLV for the doors locally.

Now all of this may not work for you. Knock out the sub amp and separates and spend the money on some components off the 100wpc Kenwood and bridge the other 2 for the sub, etc.

 

I'd look at a JL 10W0 for the sub.

 

I hate to say it, but I really want to stick with an OEM hu on this one, even though I'll be giving up quality at the start. I've been trying to figure out the best way to get the signal to the amp, and I don't know if there's anything I can really do better. From what I've read, the hu crosses the signal around 80hz, and I get high level high pass, and low level low pass. I'd considered trying to trade it for the standard hu, but then I have to deal with the bass roll off (which supposedly doesn't happen on the audiophile signal).

I think it's more fear of the unknown than anything that is keeping me from going active. Do you know of any threads or writeups anywhere that could give me a decent introduction?

Found the D720's for $120 so those are definitely going on the short list.

It's the copper wire, I didn't want to mess with their copper coated aluminum line.

I meant deadening in general, I'll definitely read up some more. Rick had a decent write up on the Raamat website that explained a few different methods.

Thanks for the help.

 

I pulled the trigger on the pioneer comps. I think I'll stick with passive for now, and if I decide I want to go active and buy a separate sub amp in the future, I'll have that option and won't be out much.

Would still like to read up on going active, though.

 

300W RMS is in the "Warranty Void" range for the W0 on their website.

 

I have no issues with the head unit, I just wanted ipod, and found a open box on a pioneer double din.

As far as fear of unknown, that is reasonable. But think of it like this: If you dont like it, go back. First you can start with the same crossovers that the factory one has (so you know you wont blow anything) Then adjust as you go.

Here are some complicated readings to get started with:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...tive-user.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...rossovers.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-part-2-a.html

 

A good place to start, the mids (at least, maybe the tweets too) seem like they are probably worth the price of admission alone. You can always go active with them, and change drivers as you go.

Passives are simply an electronic network to create a rolloff at a certain frequency - unchangeable. You can do the same thing with an active crossover


OR

You can chose a slope and frequency that works in your car(truck) because vehicles are not one size fits all.

Start with the complicated mess that MiniVanMan left on DIYMA and see what you think.

There are a ton more on there (it was much easier to read prior to 2009 or so, a lot of new people with a lot of new questions, older subjects are harder to find with all the new threads)

 

I like this idea. With an active setup, you'd be amazed at the sound you can get for very little money. For car audio I feel the difference in cost between crap and great is minimal. The difference in cost between great and phenomenal is large.

A note about the ID OEMs: i used then for a while too, you need a tweeter that can play relatively low. The OEMs had excellent midbass but extension beyond 2k wasn't pleasing to me. I did get to play around with a budget active setup consisting of those seas tweets mentioned above and the Peerless 7" exclusive mids. A very promising budget combo IMO.

 

My roommate has an extra 250w mono, so I might hook it up and play around with an active set up with just the pioneer comps and see what I think.

I can always sell the Pioneer set and start playing with the separates if I like it.

Any recommendations for subs comparable to that peerless XXLS?

mSaLL150, IIRC you started out with an audiophile, you think I'll do OK with the signals crossed over from the head unit for LP/HP?

Also, is 40' going to be enough for me to go ahead and run both sets of speaker wires to each door?

 

I ran all 4 channels from the amp on the back wall up the center on the floor and tied in to the factory wiring. I bought 50' total and I had about 12-14 left over.

 

The peerless subs are pretty nice. I had the 830952 (the 12" version of that one) and loved it.

I would find a JBL GTO, Dayton HO10 would be my top choices with a shorting ring. Beyond that, the reality is that for most people there will be no noticeable difference. A bit of distortion that most people cannot hear anyways. Most quality subs will be fine.

 

Or try to find an Adire Koda somewhere, although super rare. They pop up on craigslist, forum classifieds, or ebay every once in a while. 4.5" deep armed with shorting rings and XBL^2 motor. Beautiful sounding drivers.

 

I'm liking the Peerless. Is there a significant enough difference between the Aluminum and Nomex cone XXLS's to warrant the $35 increase for Aluminum?

 

Not that I have noticed. I have had both in an XXLS, but different models. Overall I am a paper cone fan, but no issues with the aluminum I had in the car for several months.

The Koda would be nice, if you could find em.