Image Dynamics ID10D4 V.3 or JL Audio 10W3v3-2

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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Brad Johnson
Chupo,

Computer modeling is great. There's only one small detail... modeling is not as real world as, well, the real world. You can model all day long to get a close approximation of actual performance, but the best "model" is still first-hand experience with a real-life install. You can tell someone they are wrong based on the computer models, but when they've heard the diff in real life it makes the validity of your models bit suspect.

In other words, theory sometimes doesn't perfectly equate to performance. Sucks, but that's the way life is sometimes. That's why this thing called "experience" is such a good thing to listen to.

I learned the hard way modeling engines with dyno software. I put up the good fight, giving all the theoretical reasons why my way was the right way even though the builder involved had about twenty years experience on me. Guess what? I was wrong. He was right. I continue to use the software and can get very close, but real life still intervenes on occasion to let me know that all the modeling in the world can't replace good, old-fashioned hard test data and the opinion of someone who's been there and done that.

Brad
That is all fine and good, but you seem to think there is real world experience involved, when in fact, there is not. There is ONE person that has heard them both (although he mentions the MOMO version, when the model listed appears to be the newer MM sub series, not the MOMO version from a couple years ago) in different installs, presumably in different vehicles at different times. That is no where near your example of an engine builder with 20 years experience...

Modeling is only as good as the specs and program used. Win ISD is not perfect, and I guarantee the T/S parameters are off for at least one of those woofers. But even with that the modeling will give us the most honest and accurate picture of the two woofers based on what we do have.

I am not arguing for or against either woofer. In all honesty, I would not buy either, but given a choice without any further info, I would have probably gone with the ID. But that is not the case, and I am simply trying to provide the closest thing to objective information available to provide the OP with all information.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by el_chupo_
I am not arguing for or against either woofer. In all honesty, I would not buy either ... I am simply trying to provide the closest thing to objective information available to provide the OP with all information.
For someone with only five posts under you belt you're taking a pretty elitist tone. I'd suggest backing off a bit. There are a bunch of folks on the forum with much more experience than you and your computer shareware. There's also a lot more information on subs in this forum than is contained in this one thread. You've chosen to take the position that your freeware version of reality is better than the all that information and experience. Continuing down this path will get you ignored in pretty short order.

Brad
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Brad Johnson
For someone with only five posts under you belt you're taking a pretty elitist tone. I'd suggest backing off a bit. There are a bunch of folks on the forum with much more experience than you and your computer shareware. There's also a lot more information on subs in this forum than is contained in this one thread. You've chosen to take the position that your freeware version of reality is better than the all that information and experience. Continuing down this path will get you ignored in pretty short order.

Brad
Be careful when calling somebody out on post count..

Ever heard of DIYMA.com?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Brad Johnson
For someone with only five posts under you belt you're taking a pretty elitist tone. I'd suggest backing off a bit. There are a bunch of folks on the forum with much more experience than you and your computer shareware. There's also a lot more information on subs in this forum than is contained in this one thread. You've chosen to take the position that your freeware version of reality is better than the all that information and experience. Continuing down this path will get you ignored in pretty short order.

Brad
I think you are misunderstanding. I am not trying to downplay anybodies opinion of their gear, but I am stating that no one *in this thread* has said they can accurately make a recommendation based on experience.

While I acknowledge your example of a guy with 20 years experience knowing what he is doing, that is not the case here.

I note that you quote me stating I would not buy either woofer and that I am trying to provide objective data. I dont know why this would come off badly, as I have no ties to either company, nor any reason to bad-mouth either company. I am simply stating personal opinion (about not buying them) and provide data to the OP (which was the point of his post)

Would this opinion be easier to swallow if msall150 (and I hate to pick on you, I apologize) stated that these were typical average quality subs? Note that he is using some well known DIY drivers (with much better technology in their build than what is being discussed here) and his current and previous sub setup has both had XBL^2 motor technology. It is obvious he is on board with quality products.


Originally Posted by MOford21
Be careful when calling somebody out on post count..

Ever heard of DIYMA.com?
Thank you. I would hope that the presentation (or implication) of knowledge would not be dictated by the number of post you have. Fact is, I just got an F150 in Jan. I signed up because I think this forum has more info and knowledge than the others I was looking at.

I am a member of DIYMA, along with various other car and home audio forums, have been for a while. I am far from an expert on anything audio, and still have questions myself. I am also comfortable saying that I probably have quite a bit more knowledge than you are able to discern by my post count on this forum. I am not claiming in any way (and if it appears so in my post, I apologize) that I know more than anyone, but I stand by my previous statement that modeling is not perfect, specs are not perfect, but based on the discussion in this thread it is the most objective thing available.

Subjective opinions are just that, and since there is very little, if any, subjective reviews of the MM series (if, in fact, it is different than the momo woofers mSall150 has heard) then all we have is objective date.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MOford21
Be careful when calling somebody out on post count..

Ever heard of DIYMA.com?
Haven't been there.

If the person in question is a mogul on some other forum, state it (an be prepared to show examples of that experience and authority). If not, be prepared to be called out on post count. Simple as that.

Brad
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #21  
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I'd like to hear msall150 and el chupo's recommendations on which sub (not limited to the three in the OP's post) would be best given the OP's constraints (qlogic box 280-400W RMS). EDIT: ALSO IN THIS BUDGET RANGE ~$150 online

El Chupo, on a side note, I know a lot of people have benefited from msall150's build threads on here, any chance we'll get to see an install from you?
 

Last edited by GATORB8; Apr 1, 2010 at 12:13 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:10 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jjdh
shiat these be slammin..
u all best be gettin summa dees
u BEST BELEE DAT!!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #23  
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LOL, all F150 owners bow before the all mighty msall! LOl j/k.
Being a member of both sites and many others there are many people out there that can help. While the dimya community has a broader spetrum, to where we are focused here to 1 particular vehicle. If your arent members over there, it wouldnt be a bad idea. Lots and lots of great info to read if your into SQ setups. RealmofExcursion.com is more for making lots of noise.

While msall is very helpful and has helped me many a time, opinions are like *******s, everyone has one. And 95% of the time car audio is about opinion and personal taste. What i like you might hate.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by GATORB8
I'd like to hear msall150 and el chupo's recommendations on which sub (not limited to the three in the OP's post) would be best given the OP's constraints (qlogic box 280-400W RMS). EDIT: ALSO IN THIS BUDGET RANGE ~$150 online

El Chupo, on a side note, I know a lot of people have benefited from msall150's build threads on here, any chance we'll get to see an install from you?
Yes, I will do an install. It wont be until I redo the trunk in my car and work on the wifes Mini, but probably this summer or fall.

Recommendation - need more info. based on what we have in this thread, I would leave well enough alone. He says he is happy.

If a change is desired, a JBL GTO 10 (old style) would be my first choice sealed based on depth (I dont know what the box will support) and what I remember about its airspace needs, coupled with the high quality of the sub, or a Dayton HO10 with an external port would be nice too.

There are a lot of "good" subs. The depth and space is a killer here.

Originally Posted by PorkCereal
While msall is very helpful and has helped me many a time, opinions are like *******s, everyone has one. And 95% of the time car audio is about opinion and personal taste. What i like you might hate.
True, to an extent. Quality is quality. Quality is not opinion. I like the 95% is about opinion (the competitions are not, of course - but then I dont compete, and it sounds like not many here do) and to each his own. I have no problem with someone simply stating "I bought this, I like it, I am happy". I may not agree, but who cares...

I am not a proponent of either sub listed, it does not mean that neither, or both, would not satisfy the OP.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #25  
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From: R
Originally Posted by el_chupo_
No, in fact, I did not miss the information. The fact is, I have actually modeled both, and found that the difference is minimal, at best. A 1db difference at 30 hz (lower wont matter for music, as a general rule)

Also of note, its optimal enclosure (based on a .71 qtc) is .636. when you put the ID in the same sized enclosure the differences are even smaller.



and "boomier" can be controlled by the enclosure and tuning, although, it is far from boomier based on specs and modeling.

I am simply pointing out that the "ID RULZ" line of thinking may not be correct, if you take the time to look. Other options may be more suited to an application.
Good stuff. I didn't think they'd model so similarly, I simply assumed the ID would work better given the space. I wasn't able to/haven't been able to model drivers for awhile now (no software for Macs ).

The OP didn't specify why he didn't like the Polk sub. Sometimes all a sub needs is a little more power to come alive... I'd also try a low-tuned ported enclosure before springing the money for another sub.

I forgot all about Dayton subs. I've had very good results with the Titanic MKIII subs. How do the HO/HF lines compare?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 01:37 PM
  #26  
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The Dayton HO and HF lines are very nice. Same look with the black aluminum cone, but the HF seem to have a bit lower FS and are more suited to HT apps, with the HO being the smaller box/higher power (suited for car) lines. The HO10 models out great in .6-.7 cubes tuned to 27-32. I am toying with a FOX ACOUSTICS box for a pair and porting it for my setup.

I hope to try one or two HF 15's in my house, but dont know if the wife will go for it. hope to get a Behringer EP1500 for the house this weekend, so power a'plenty!
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 02:04 PM
  #27  
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From: R
How do you plan on modifying the Fox box into a ported box? You'll need a relatively long port to get tuning in that range. The HO sounds like a great option for these trucks with it small box requirements.

I ran a Titanic MKIII in 3.5 ft^3 tuned to 20hz, powered off a Dayton 250 watt plate amp, in my HT for a while. Sounded great when playing music and was awesome for movies. After corner loading and using a BFD I was able to get a nice house curve down to 18hz.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 02:53 PM
  #28  
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From: jax fla
Originally Posted by el_chupo_
True, to an extent. Quality is quality. Quality is not opinion. I like the 95% is about opinion (the competitions are not, of course - but then I dont compete, and it sounds like not many here do) and to each his own. I have no problem with someone simply stating "I bought this, I like it, I am happy". I may not agree, but who cares...

.
Quality was never asked, only sound and output. I wouldnt say any of the companies mentioned put out total junk.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by el_chupo_
The Dayton HO and HF lines are very nice. Same look with the black aluminum cone, but the HF seem to have a bit lower FS and are more suited to HT apps, with the HO being the smaller box/higher power (suited for car) lines. The HO10 models out great in .6-.7 cubes tuned to 27-32. I am toying with a FOX ACOUSTICS box for a pair and porting it for my setup.
I hope to try one or two HF 15's in my house, but dont know if the wife will go for it. hope to get a Behringer EP1500 for the house this weekend, so power a'plenty!
Chupo, on the foxbox site it states that the box is "undivided", well mine has a divider, which I like better"divided".. If you find a way to port it let me know. At this point it doesnt seem possible. I tried to ask fox bout this and havnt received an answer. I did try some aperiodic vents, couldnt make it work properly.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #30  
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Just to throw salt in the the thread.... Jl ftw
 
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