Last Saturday I bought a 2010 SuperCrew XLT.

The truck has the standard audio with Sync system (no nav screen) and Sirius sat radio.

Here's the problem. The sound sucks. I don't want a sub, but I need better sound. I've never messed with the audio system in a vehicle AT ALL.

I have done some research and this is what I'm thinking. Some Kenwood KFC-C6893PS front and back and a MTX re-Q5 to fix the bass limit problem with the factory head.

Question: Is that enough? Are there better speakers to use (I don't want to spend a mint, but I want good stuff)? Different/Better speakers to use without a sub? Do I have to have an amp? If so, where to mount the amp TOTALLY out of the way? Am I missing something?

Any and all help will be appreciated.

 

Better question to ask is how to you have your headunit configured? Bass all the way up and cranking the volume? That will make any speaker wether being 5$ or 500$ sound like crap. Stock speakers dont sound bad if you take the bass off of them and let them play what they are designed to play.

I ran stock speakers with a small alpine 200.2 amp and a single 12 for about 3 years and it would get loud and clean because i could take the bass off and let them play more mid/highs.

An amp will allow them to play louder with less distortion from the headunit. You have plenty of room behind your rear seats for amps. Check out some of the builds here. Lots of pics around of amp installs.

A] Best
My recommendation for you would be a 3 or 5 channel amp. Small 8 or 10 under the seat. Nice set of 6.5 components in the front doors, leave stocks in rear. To do it right.

B] Good
You can also go with a set of components and a small 2 channel amp for the front doors. You will get little better midbass.

C] Ok
Go around and listen to speakers and find ones you like the sound of. Make sure they only want about 25w of power because thats all your going to get from a stock headunit. Alpine type R ive heard sound decent, some Polks. Speakers are going to be to a sound of your liking. Running a 2 or 4 channel amp will broaden you options.
But it all depends on budget, new or used.

Holy wall of text batman! I hope this helps and gets the wheels rolling in the right direction.

 

Recommendations for 3-5 channel amp, 8"-10" sub, and set of 6.5" components?

Would I still need the processor for the head unit bass cutting?

 

How much do i have to spend not including box, and wireing?

 

I was hoping to stay around $600-$800.

 

10" Sub Box - $67

JL Audio 10W0V2-4 10" Subwoofer - $75

Kicker ZX700.5 Amplifier - $270

Alpine Type-R 5x7's (Front) $83

Alpine Type-S 5x7's (Rear) $59

4 AWG Wiring Kit for Amp $26

$580 Total. Just threw that together, $600-$800 is plenty for a decent total sound system.

 

Thats fine and dandy, but the question to the OP is, are you going to do the install yourself? You said before that you have no experience changing/installing car stereos. If thats the case, your going to want to set aside $200-$400 for professional installation.

 

Oh yeah that is a biggie. I never think about that when building systems, I've always done my own and my buddies'.

 

High powered 4 channel, front 2 channels powering components up front in treated doors, rear 2 channels bridged on a single 10 under the seat.

Rear fill sucks.

 

I can honestly say I have never, ever heard of anyone doing that or have thought about that.

That's a great idea for a budget build.

 

my X910 is designed to run a subwoofer off of the rear speaker leads.

 

All good info, guys. I hate to say it, but I will probably have someone install the system. I just wouldn't feel comfortable taking seats and panels out or whatever the heck I would have to do. And there would be a moment when all that stuff would be out of my new truck and I can see myself stepping back and crapping myself with fear that I wouldn't get it all back in right. Or worse yet getting it all back in and then something not working.

I'm going to buy the pieces and have a local sound shop install it all.

Thanks for the prices and links, ChrisAU.

I only understand about 1/3 for that. Sorry

 

4 channel amp
front 2 channels used normally, ie.. left and right
the 2 rear channels will be tied together to combine power for the sub.
before doing this make sure you know how to bridge(tie) the 2 rear outs together!

I'm not sure how the ohm load will cross over if it even will though, thats beyond my knowledge, for now...LOL

 

Thanks!

I'm still reading and researching so I may end up doing this myself. I started thinking harder about that after I learn how much the local installation shop charges just for install.

 

Hello All
Thought I would post an update of anyone was interested.

I ended up befriending a guy who is one of the local Best Buy car audio installers and he recommended going with a full set (4) of Infinity Reference without an amp first. This was with the understanting that I wasn't going to get the speakers for Best Buy as they are way overpriced. He also told me how easy it was to get the door panels off and on. I did get some instructions from a member here, but I don't have his id right now.

Anyway, the first door I did was the front passenger door and it took above a hour to figure everything out, but the others only took about 20 minutes each.

The speakers sound absolutely AMAZING! They are crystal clear at least to half way and I can't imagine needing more volume. I think their low power requirement (2+) coupled with their high sensitivity (93) really make these speakers respond. And the bass from these little speakers makes my door mirrors vibrate at resonable volumes on songs with any kind of real bass.

I know this is really not close to following any of the advice you all gave me but I'm happy with the results and in still appreciate the input.

Thoughts? Further suggestions?