Atrend box & Image Dynamics sub - Recommended!
Just finished up getting the system in my 2007 s-crew. After a couple days getting the system dialed in I have some recommendations on sub and box.
I can highly recommend the Atrend b-series (carpeted) box, p/n A371-10CP. It fits just fine. At $55 shipped from Amazon it's darn near the same price I'd have in materrials, fittings, sealants, etc. had I tried to build one. The grey carpet is a nice match to the factory Flint interior color, too.
The Image Dynamics 10", p/n ID10D2, is a definite recommendation as well. I've been driving it pretty hard trying to find any weak spots or loose things. It has yet to clip, buzz, or do anthing other than produce smooth, tight sound in all the quantity I could ever want. I did have to remove the magnet cap to cure a small buzzing problem, but a couple of seconds with a screwdriver is all it takes. My previous setup used a thunderous Crossfire 12" CP1 and I was prepared to be letdown with both the quality and quantity of sound. My concerns were unfounded as it works incredibly well, especially given the $159 price. One of these little monsters will run you out of the cab. I can only imagine what two would do.
One small heads-up on the box. Shoved all the way up under the seat (so it fits flush in the front) the top of the box makes contact with the seat tray. When driven hard it will buzz against the seat. The fix is to simply pull the box out a bit for most daily activities then push it back underneath when you're going to carry passengers. The weight of a person on the seat will keep it from buzzing.
Brad
I can highly recommend the Atrend b-series (carpeted) box, p/n A371-10CP. It fits just fine. At $55 shipped from Amazon it's darn near the same price I'd have in materrials, fittings, sealants, etc. had I tried to build one. The grey carpet is a nice match to the factory Flint interior color, too.
The Image Dynamics 10", p/n ID10D2, is a definite recommendation as well. I've been driving it pretty hard trying to find any weak spots or loose things. It has yet to clip, buzz, or do anthing other than produce smooth, tight sound in all the quantity I could ever want. I did have to remove the magnet cap to cure a small buzzing problem, but a couple of seconds with a screwdriver is all it takes. My previous setup used a thunderous Crossfire 12" CP1 and I was prepared to be letdown with both the quality and quantity of sound. My concerns were unfounded as it works incredibly well, especially given the $159 price. One of these little monsters will run you out of the cab. I can only imagine what two would do.
One small heads-up on the box. Shoved all the way up under the seat (so it fits flush in the front) the top of the box makes contact with the seat tray. When driven hard it will buzz against the seat. The fix is to simply pull the box out a bit for most daily activities then push it back underneath when you're going to carry passengers. The weight of a person on the seat will keep it from buzzing.
Brad
Just finished up getting the system in my 2007 s-crew. After a couple days getting the system dialed in I have some recommendations on sub and box.
I can highly recommend the Atrend b-series (carpeted) box, p/n A371-10CP. It fits just fine. At $55 shipped from Amazon it's darn near the same price I'd have in materrials, fittings, sealants, etc. had I tried to build one. The grey carpet is a nice match to the factory Flint interior color, too.
The Image Dynamics 10", p/n ID10D2, is a definite recommendation as well. I've been driving it pretty hard trying to find any weak spots or loose things. It has yet to clip, buzz, or do anthing other than produce smooth, tight sound in all the quantity I could ever want. I did have to remove the magnet cap to cure a small buzzing problem, but a couple of seconds with a screwdriver is all it takes. My previous setup used a thunderous Crossfire 12" CP1 and I was prepared to be letdown with both the quality and quantity of sound. My concerns were unfounded as it works incredibly well, especially given the $159 price. One of these little monsters will run you out of the cab. I can only imagine what two would do.
One small heads-up on the box. Shoved all the way up under the seat (so it fits flush in the front) the top of the box makes contact with the seat tray. When driven hard it will buzz against the seat. The fix is to simply pull the box out a bit for most daily activities then push it back underneath when you're going to carry passengers. The weight of a person on the seat will keep it from buzzing.
Brad
I can highly recommend the Atrend b-series (carpeted) box, p/n A371-10CP. It fits just fine. At $55 shipped from Amazon it's darn near the same price I'd have in materrials, fittings, sealants, etc. had I tried to build one. The grey carpet is a nice match to the factory Flint interior color, too.
The Image Dynamics 10", p/n ID10D2, is a definite recommendation as well. I've been driving it pretty hard trying to find any weak spots or loose things. It has yet to clip, buzz, or do anthing other than produce smooth, tight sound in all the quantity I could ever want. I did have to remove the magnet cap to cure a small buzzing problem, but a couple of seconds with a screwdriver is all it takes. My previous setup used a thunderous Crossfire 12" CP1 and I was prepared to be letdown with both the quality and quantity of sound. My concerns were unfounded as it works incredibly well, especially given the $159 price. One of these little monsters will run you out of the cab. I can only imagine what two would do.
One small heads-up on the box. Shoved all the way up under the seat (so it fits flush in the front) the top of the box makes contact with the seat tray. When driven hard it will buzz against the seat. The fix is to simply pull the box out a bit for most daily activities then push it back underneath when you're going to carry passengers. The weight of a person on the seat will keep it from buzzing.
Brad
Maybe try some sort of rubber or something between seat and box.
thanks for the great review!
i was going to go with a jlW3 10. any chance you can compare the 2?
i was going to go with a jlW3 10. any chance you can compare the 2?
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Haven't heard the JL in an S-Crew so can't compare. Also, the JLs I have heard recently were in ported boxes. Mine's a sealed so it's not really an apples to apples thing.
Brad
Brad
Both are typical overhung designs, you probably wont see a noticeable difference in sound quality between them. The IDs may have slightly more output due to a bit more usable excursions. Just get whichever you can get a better price on I guess.
i recently installed mine and im pretty disappointed. i had a 10 inch p3 in my jeep. the id 10 cant even come close to the p3. i have to turn my volume at least 3/4 to get a little bass. im giving the sub 500 watts rms also. is something wrong or does this sub just suck?
Also the sub touches the floor when its not even moving (just barely though) i have the same box as you brad. do you have the same problem?
-cody
Also the sub touches the floor when its not even moving (just barely though) i have the same box as you brad. do you have the same problem?
-cody
Last edited by cte0425; Jul 5, 2010 at 07:21 PM.
No, I have plenty of room. No problems with the cone contacting anything but the air it's supposed to.
As for having to turn it up that far to get any bass, sounds like a component mismatch or tuning issue. I continue to make people do a double-take with the performance and overall sound quality of my otherwise simple system.
The amp may be rated for 500, but are you truly making it work? Give us a rundown of your system layout and the how it's tuned. We'll start there.
Brad
As for having to turn it up that far to get any bass, sounds like a component mismatch or tuning issue. I continue to make people do a double-take with the performance and overall sound quality of my otherwise simple system.
The amp may be rated for 500, but are you truly making it work? Give us a rundown of your system layout and the how it's tuned. We'll start there.
Brad
Last edited by Brad Johnson; Jul 6, 2010 at 12:25 AM.
No, I have plenty of room. No problems with the cone contacting anything but the air it's supposed to.
As for having to turn it up that far to get any bass, sounds like a component mismatch or tuning issue. I continue to make people do a double-take with the performance and overall sound quality of my otherwise simple system.
The amp may be rated for 500, but are you truly making it work? Give us a rundown of your system layout and the how it's tuned. We'll start there.
Brad
As for having to turn it up that far to get any bass, sounds like a component mismatch or tuning issue. I continue to make people do a double-take with the performance and overall sound quality of my otherwise simple system.
The amp may be rated for 500, but are you truly making it work? Give us a rundown of your system layout and the how it's tuned. We'll start there.
Brad
alpine power pack 45 rms x 4
4 rockford fosgate 6 1/2'' door speakers
id10d4
atrend box
eclipse xa1200 amp
http://support.alpine-usa.com/produc...%20English.pdf
If that doesn't work, then...
What are the settings / crossover points / gains set to at both the H/U and the amp?
Also, you have double-checked to make sure the sub amp is REALLY connected to the sub out connections on the H/U, right? (the sub connections should be the lowest of the three sets of connections on your Alpine).
Brad
Last edited by Brad Johnson; Jul 6, 2010 at 12:30 PM.



