So my buddy that just got back from Afghanistan asked me if id help him hook up a system in his suburban. I had no problem as long as he was supplying the beer. But the problem was he went out and bought a bunch mix match stuff and not really asking me what he needed. So he ended up with two JL w1 12's and a 200w Jl class a/b amp.

Well I hooked it up for him and to me it sounded good but it was just a little bass not heart stoping, ear popping, death that he wanted. So now he told me to find him a system that will BOOM.

Well Im looking at 2 15" rockford T'1s along with a rockford T1500-1bdCP amp all packaged up nice in a ported pro box (215spb)

This isnt a what if thread or is this a good set up thread. Its my buddy has his deployment cash and wants subs this weekend.

I guess what Im getting at is this is my first 750w + system and I want it to thump right so I have a couple questions about ohms and box size

1) probox says the box has 3.75ft airspace per side but the T1's call for 2.75 per each sub. ???? do I need a different box?

2) OHM'S the Rockford T1500-1bdCP makes the same power at 2ohms as it does at 1ohm so should I get two 4ohm dvc and wire them for 1 ohm or should I get two 2ohms and wire them 2ohm? what about .5 ohm?

Thanks

 

Looks like the box is too big. will reduce power handling. Are the rockfords the only option? Upgrading the w1 to w6 in a ported box will rattle the brain plenty.

 

to small? I thought it was 1cu ft to big? enlighten me please

 

I didnt see per side on your post. My bad.......Quit writing books.. you could put blocks of wood in the box to take down the air space. Wire them to 2 ohm. amp will last longer than at 1/2 ohm

 

Yea that was one of my longer post. haha. I just noticed the T1500-1bdCP doesn't ship till april but the T1500-1bd is out. but for max power it needs to be wired at 1 ohm. Is that still ok? I dont understand the 1 ohm stable thing

 

If the amp is stable at 1 ohm that means it can handle all that current freely flowing through it. Less ohm means less resistence which means more output from amp. The amp has to be built to allow that much juice without going into protect, toasting, overheating, peaking and fading. Those amps arent out till april either.

 

the bds are out theres a couple floating around fleabay but Im going to call my RF dealer here in town today to see what the have in stock.

this should sound pretty good right?

 

Never heard those. All you can do is look at the specs. Check out some classifieds on here....http://www.caraudio.com/forum/car-audio-classifieds/. Look at some dd subs. There are hundreds of spl subs. Its all about the brand you like and budget. I like jl amps and subs. Have owned w3, w6, w7. I dont care for the sound of 15" woofers.

 

How much do you wanna spend? You dont necessarily have to jump to 15's to go boom. What about two alpine type r 12's (dual 4 ohm VC) and a rockford 1000.1bd which is 1000w + rms at 1 ohm.

 

I'm personally a 12's man but my buddy thinks bigger is better. Im trying to get him to go with some p3's in his ported box (that he already has) with a RF 1000-1 or maybe a 1500 but he is set on 15's

 

I've heard the T1500-1bd, it's a mean amp for it's size! A local shop has one hooked up to a pair of 12" T1's and nothing but beef, lol. Like JJHD said, the lower the OHMs, the more current can flow through the amplifier. If the amp is 1ohm stable, I would strongly advise not running it any lower than that. Heat is the enemy of all electronics, the more current you run, the more heat is generated. The T1500-1bd can handle it just fine though, and if you're getting two 15" subs, me sure they are both dual 4ohms, so you can parallel all the voice coils together to get a 1ohm load.

As for the box, that is a BIG box, but you can always stuff it with something solid to eliminate air space. When there's more air space, you need less power. The T1's are rated at 600Wrms, and the amp is rated @ 1500Wrms @ 1ohm, it will be a pinch over nominal handling (keep in mind that @ 40hz or 45hz is the frequency that the amp uses the most power, so in hard hitting bass around that the amplifier may only be pushing 1300Wrms, so it won't be a big worry for overpowering since the amp is rated @ 14.4v).

 

keep in mind too that Rockford almost always under rates their amps power wise. Example...the 1000.1bd is rated 1000wrms at 1 ohm...most of the birth certificates ive seen have been 1300w + rms. They should also all have a birth certificate that gives their actual RMS ratings.

 

exactly devil thats why I love rockford amps. my p3002 pushes as much as most guys 500w (no proof but an ear) as far as the amp being at the limits of the subs im sure ill set the gain a hair low just to be safe.

Have any of you heard of these guys http://onlinecarstereo.com/? They have some rediculious prices on stuff. It says all brand new factory sealed so I dont think its refurbed

 

Yeah you're right, I totally forgot about that. My MTX amp was the same way. Their said RMS rating is more accurate for actual use as a nominal measurement. So yeah you're right, lol. Their birth certificate gives power ratings at 14.4V, but their advertised rating are the more common number being implicated at, per say, 40hz.

 

I have bought three systems from them no hicups Jl subs kicker multi cahnnel amps. I live in california so I order it one day and here the next. So far what they have advertised is what I have got.

Mark