I will be taking delivery of my 2010 F150 Harley Davidson Edition soon and was thinking about changing my stock speakers to aftermarket components. The truck comes with the 10 speaker system and has the front tweeters in the A posts on either side of the windshield and the woofers are in the doors. My delema is that aftermarket components use a crossover to seperate the high and low frequencies and there is no way to feed speaker wires into or out of the front doors because Ford now has plug in pin connector style front door wireing which does not allow for the running of wires through it. Because of this I cant think of a way to use the crossover and was wondering if I could just replace the tweeters and woofers with aftermarket ones (not using the crossover). I wonder if the stock speakers are already getting the correct frequency therefore the aftermarket speakers would also.

Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated

 

My wifes car is the same way. You're thinking too hard. :P Simply do all your wiring behind the radio. Define which color wires go to what and splice into them from behind the radio. Then just run them to your amplifier.

Cheers!

 

the way we do it is drill the door jam. with the factory radio aftermarket speakers are a waste,unless you amp them, the factory speaks are paired with the factory hu, which means they sound best with it...

 

I appreciate your help but there is some info I forgot to mention

First please know that I have been installing stereo systems in my own cars for 20 years now and I am very knowledgable at doing it.

My problem with this setup is that I do not want to swap the HU. I also was not planning on amping the speakers because this system has a center channel and I cannot think of a way to amp the doors AND the center. The only 5 channel amps I know of amp a sub freq as the fifth channel and not a full range channel. The HU controls the signal to the center and no amp setup I can think of can do this.

If the head unit itself is how the speakers are crossed over then just swapping the actual tweeters and woofers should be a nice improvement. I know this is not optimal but I cant think of any other way to keep the factory 10 speaker system working. I do plan on changing the factory sub and amp to an Alpine amp and JL Audio subs as this is a pretty straight forward.

 

installing a system and knowing about stereos are two completely different things. you will most likely blow the components if you do it the way you are talking about, you will be underpowering them which is worse then over powering them...if you want simple speaker replacementget a coaxial speaker or just a plain speaker which will have very little improvement, now if you add an amp that would be best

here is what i would do, use the stock hu with a converter to run the rca's to an amp to power the component speakers replacing the stock speakers and the stock tweeters with the aftermarket stuff using the crossover. then if you want to amp your center channel get an aftermarket speaker for it then a small one or two channel amp to power that

 

Not sure if you meant to insult me but let me just say as politely as I can..... I "know" about stereo's just as much as I know about installing them. This setup is new for 2010 is new any ideas of how to do it are just specullation. Obviously amplifying the speakers is the best bet but since I have a center channel finding a 5 channel amp with a full range 5 channel output is probably not going to happen. amping one speaker is also not the best way to use the center. I am looking for a way to use all of the factory speakers and do not want to delete the center and just use the other four.

 

Why dont you just make your own door boot? All you need is a soft rubber sleeve (the door actuator kits we sell come with them, so i know they exist) and a unibit to make a whole in your door and in the kick panel.

There is also a member here who drilled out the extra empty pins in the molex plug and ran his speaker wire that way.

I would not run comps without an amp. What comps are you thinking about running?

For your center channel problem, get a 4 channel for your fronts and your center, and either leave the rears off the HU or get a separate two channel if your planning on replacing them.

 

new truck with ten speakers......sounds nice, i would just leave it alone....imho. also to each is own, sounds like you have been around,although, the guys on here offering advice have experience with audio in these trucks, its solid advice..here is a pic of my door jams here is a link to my album..https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...o-install.html

 

Delete the center channel and amplify the rest of the front stage. You will get better imaging without the center speaker.

 

Jmeo why even bother to replace the speakers?

>IMO< Factory speakers sound better than aftermarket when powered by the factory head unit.

anyways..
If you are an experienced installer you have to know there is always a solution. JJDH's pic shows what you have to do. Put the crossovers inside the doors or behind the dash.

You said your system is factory with a center channel so you should be set to do the center channel as long as it's a true 5.1. Otherwise you never heard good stereo in your truck. Odd thing is I never heard ford using a center channel in these trucks.

I love my center channel and I have a 5.1 DSP head unit. You amp a center channel with a small amp that can bridge or simple use one side of a 2 channel class A amp . The later is what I do. When I play music that isn't 5.1 the DSP plays center channel audio when both left and right speakers are playing the same thing. When the music goes stereo signals the left and right differences are still very evident. But as I said the DSP still plays the "mono audio" through the center channel.

 

Thanks guys. This is why I posted the question in the first place. I wanted to get some different points of views from you. I was trying to avoid making holes in the doors & jambs simply because its my first brand new vehicle and its the rare lava red Harley Davidson Edition so thats why I was thinking alterior methods. I like the idea of drilling a hole where there are no pins in the connector (this way it's not visible) so I will have to see if this is the case on my truck when I get it. Also, the tweeters are on the A post and not in the door so I think I will put the crossover inside the truck under the dash and take the front door output (should be full range) and send it into the crossover. Then if I was able to make a hole in the stock pin thingamabob I will run new wires to the woofer in the door and a new set of wires up to the A post to the new tweeters. If I cannot make a hole in the thingamabob I will just come out of the crossover (woofer out) and attach to the factory wire running to the door and use the stock wires in the door to connect the woofer and all should be fine. When and if I decide to amp the speakers I will just have to replace the input to the crossover with the wire comming from the amp. I think I am going to try the Rockford 3sixty then into 4 channel amp for doors and mono sub amp for subs. The center channel I am guessing will be mostly for DVD operations and maybe navigation volume (just a guess) so I may try just leaving it powered from the HU. If it turns out not quite loud enough I may add a small 2 channel amp and just use the left output of it to power it. I am not sure if the 2009 F150 has this center channel so I dont know if anyone else has had a chance to mess with this setup.

Thanks again everybody for you ideas and if you have any more I am all ears.

 

I found a amp, new in box that has six channels. 1-4 for each door speaker, channel 5 for the center channel. and channel 6 for the sub. It is a Cadence z6000 ultra drive.
1-4 can be set to full range or high pass and channel five can be set independently to full or high pass independent of 1-4. channel six can be set to full range or low pass as appropriate. I am installing this weekend.

 

Wow that sounds promising. Please let me know how it works for you. I assume you have a 2010? Are you mounting it to the back wall? I hope it fits.

 

Actually, I have a 2001 supercrew. I stumbled across this amp by chance but I was really looking for a five channel. I just could not pass on this nib amp. Given that I now have an additional channel to account for I am feverishly looking to add a center channel speaker to my setup but I have not found someone who has done this in a pre generation supercrew. If I do not find a five channel from someone I will have to switch to a different setup. The thing is, if I can get this to work I will get really close to the SQ I have in my 2003 S500 mercedes but have it in the f150 (I love to drive the truck over the mercedes but I love the sound system in the mercedes). I do plan on mounting it to the back wall and I just ordered my color keyed sub box from supercrewsound, without the lift. Cheers! Here are the specs on that amp:

MODEL Z6000 - 6 CHANNEL STEREO AMPLIFIER
4 Ohm Power 5 x 75 Watts
2 Ohm Power 5 x 150 Watts

SUBWOOFER CHANNEL 6
4 Ohm Mono 1 x 250 Watts
2 Ohm Mono 1 x 450 Watts
Frequency Response 10Hz - 40KHz
Signal/Noise Ratio >100dB
Damping Factor > 200 @ 100 Hz
Minimum THD <0.044%
Channel Separation >65dB
Input Gain Control 9V - 200mV

CROSSOVER CHARACTERISTICS
12 db per Octave Slope Channel 1-5
Channel 1-2 Crossover Frequency Adjustable 50Hz - 1KHz
Channel 3-4 Crossover Frequency Adjustable 50Hz - 500Hz
Channel 5 Crossover Frequency Adjustable 100Hz - 500Hz
18 db per Octave Slope Channel 6
Channel 6 Crossover Frequency Adjustable 40Hz - 120Hz
Channel 6 Subsonic Frequency Adjustable 10Hz - 40Hz
Dimensions 21" x 10.75" x 2.4" (LxWxH)