Question about Component Speakers
In my experience, components provide much improved highs, mostly due to being able to place the tweeter in a better location. This is most noticed with the front speakers - no real reason to put them in the back IMO.
Also, components tend to be higher quality all around and designed to use more power. While the tweeter does not block the larger speaker as with co-ax speakers, you are still going to want a sub for low end.
I went with the Infinity Reference because they were affordable and were rated from a very low wattage to a higher wattage than I was ever going to use. The low watt rating allowed me to use them with the stock HU prior to adding an amp and aftermarket HU.
------------------
1999 XLT S/C, 4.2 V-6, auto, 3.55 rear, dark torreador red/harvest gold, Ford bed liner
Clarion ARX8570z Head Unit, Sony 10 disc CD, Infinity 610cs components & JBL GTO7520 speakers; USAcousitcs 4065 amp and Polk 8" subwoofer
Edelbrock IAS, Energy Suspension anti-sway bar bushings, Steeda Rear Anti-sway bar, 2" rear drop.
Superchip, Airaid FIPK, Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan
[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 05-09-2001).]
Also, components tend to be higher quality all around and designed to use more power. While the tweeter does not block the larger speaker as with co-ax speakers, you are still going to want a sub for low end.
I went with the Infinity Reference because they were affordable and were rated from a very low wattage to a higher wattage than I was ever going to use. The low watt rating allowed me to use them with the stock HU prior to adding an amp and aftermarket HU.
------------------
1999 XLT S/C, 4.2 V-6, auto, 3.55 rear, dark torreador red/harvest gold, Ford bed liner
Clarion ARX8570z Head Unit, Sony 10 disc CD, Infinity 610cs components & JBL GTO7520 speakers; USAcousitcs 4065 amp and Polk 8" subwoofer
Edelbrock IAS, Energy Suspension anti-sway bar bushings, Steeda Rear Anti-sway bar, 2" rear drop.
Superchip, Airaid FIPK, Flex-a-Lite Black Magic electric fan
[This message has been edited by dirt bike dave (edited 05-09-2001).]
Can someone please help me learn? What is the main difference between component speakers and regular speakers. I understand that component speakers have a separate tweeter and come with crossovers. But what is the difference between a speaker that has a built in tweeter and a component system? Does a component system give you more bass like maybe having a small subwoofer? And if you where to get component speakers would you get them for the front and the back speakers or just the front? Also which component systems would you recommend? Thanks for your help.
What about the audiophiles that state the truest representation of sound comes from having all the speakers on a common axis. Companies like CDT claim this to be superior to seperation of the tweeter. If quality of the tweeters and the mid-bass are the same, would not the truest representation come from both on a common axis. Eclipse and Memphis are also building component grade speakers, with external crossovers, but mounting the tweeters and bass together on common axis. By the way, I'm not debating, just trying to learn more myself.
what Dave said is very true. The fact that you can place the tweeter anywhere for better highs. High frequencies are different from low frequency. You can take subs, place them in a trunk and their sound reaches you fine. Take a tweeter and place your hand over it, all of a sudden it's higher frequencies are blocked, and thats only your hand, not a trunk, rear seats, etc.
Also compnents sound better because each speaker gets only signals in it's frequency range, with the crossover. The mids only have to produce midbass sounds, the tweeters only have highs. Coaxil speakers don't limit this as much.
haze10 - if what they say is true or not who cares. The only thing that matters is if you like the sound you have and are happy with it. Remember trust your ears, not others.
Also compnents sound better because each speaker gets only signals in it's frequency range, with the crossover. The mids only have to produce midbass sounds, the tweeters only have highs. Coaxil speakers don't limit this as much.
haze10 - if what they say is true or not who cares. The only thing that matters is if you like the sound you have and are happy with it. Remember trust your ears, not others.
Haze10, while I'm no expert, my business is high end home audio/theaters....the main reason for home speakers having them on the same axis is 1) the distance you are from the speakers and 2) a relatively freindly environment (a big open room). The varied interiors of cars/trucks break some of the conventional rules (IMHO) making their own set. For instance right now I'm waiting on a pair of Q-logic kickpanels that actually put the tweeters and the midrange in the kickpanel at your feet....conventional logic says "That's absolutely stupid". I called a colleage who's company does high end car audio and he said "Just trust me....come listen to it"...could not believe my ears. Apparently moving the tweeter further away improves imaging....even if it's below your knees. Still goes against all conventional wisdom but it works. My best advice is listen to as many set ups as possible, hopefully in vehicles like yours, before you make the final decision. In the end, you'll tinker/change it anyway right...that's half the fun of it.
FlyfishnBowhunter - Isn't car audio wierd? I still have yet to hear kickpanels, but I'm leary about putting tweeters down there. I've heard what putting your hand over a tweeter does and how much sound it will block. And it doesn't seem like putting a tweeter on the ground will sound good. If you have passengers the right side tweeter has their legs to get through to reach you and the left side has to go through your legs. Logically it would be that alot of highs would not make it to our ears.
Now putting midrange or mid-bass down there would be much better.
Now putting midrange or mid-bass down there would be much better.
I think kick panels really do work for tweeters and mids, but I just can't justify the expense as car audio is about #10 on my list of priorities. First of all, you can aim the tweeters at your head better. Even swiveled tweeters in the doors have some trouble getting the proper angle.
As far as imaging, the kick panels are better because the right and left tweets will be a more similar distance from your ears. With tweets in the doors, the left tweet is maybe 1.5' from your head, and the right is 5' away, or more than 3 times as far. With tweets in the kick panels, the left is maybe 4' from your head and the right is like 5.5', or only 35% further away.
As far as imaging, the kick panels are better because the right and left tweets will be a more similar distance from your ears. With tweets in the doors, the left tweet is maybe 1.5' from your head, and the right is 5' away, or more than 3 times as far. With tweets in the kick panels, the left is maybe 4' from your head and the right is like 5.5', or only 35% further away.
Trending Topics
dirt bike dave - I totally agree and understand that. What I don't get is I know how easy it is to block the sound that comes out of tweeters. And them being on the ground has more potential for them to get blocked then if they were higher up.
You have legs and knees that can be in the way. If you have a regular cab you may throw a bookbag or briefcase on the ground. All that can block the sound of highs with ease.
Thats why I don't see kick panels for mounting tweeters. For midrange or midbass, I think I'm gonna do that. But I will be placing my tweeter in a place where I will be able to here them no matter who's in the truck or where I throw my bags.
You have legs and knees that can be in the way. If you have a regular cab you may throw a bookbag or briefcase on the ground. All that can block the sound of highs with ease.
Thats why I don't see kick panels for mounting tweeters. For midrange or midbass, I think I'm gonna do that. But I will be placing my tweeter in a place where I will be able to here them no matter who's in the truck or where I throw my bags.
What Dave said is true. I had tweeters in my kick panels in a toyota truck years ago. WHen the guys at the shop said that is where they would put them, I thought they were on crack. They sounded great. The imaging was excellent.
------------------
1997 F150, reg cab, 2wd, v6
Eclipse 5341R cd player
Eclipse 3242 amplifier
Eclipse 2101 Eq/pre-amp
JL Audio XR 5x7s
JL Audio 12W3 subwoofer
------------------
1997 F150, reg cab, 2wd, v6
Eclipse 5341R cd player
Eclipse 3242 amplifier
Eclipse 2101 Eq/pre-amp
JL Audio XR 5x7s
JL Audio 12W3 subwoofer
I have been reading this thread and it has finally come up. Imaging is everything. Don't you guys read you crutchfeild catalogs?
GEESH!! Just kidding. Seriously though, try this. sit in your seat and measure the distance from your stock speaker locations to your ears. In the doors there is a dramatic difference. Now measure from your ears to your kickpanels
BY GOERGE I THINK WE"VE GOT IT!!! As for blocking the tweeter, you are correct, if you cover it up with your handyou will block it out, BUTT you are covering the whole thing at the source. When it is at you feet, you will be surpised how crisp the highs are when people are in the truck. You also have to remember that if you are going through the trouble of kick panels and seperates, you SHOULD have a dedicated amp to go with it. Without the amp, it is like putting a stock 4 banger in a funny car (theres no point). Basically it boils down to this. How much time and money are you willing to spend. If you want to get serious about it then do the kick panels, trust me they will sound great!! If you just want a nice stereo, then use the factory door locations. Sorry for how long this is, but it's genetics he he he
GEESH!! Just kidding. Seriously though, try this. sit in your seat and measure the distance from your stock speaker locations to your ears. In the doors there is a dramatic difference. Now measure from your ears to your kickpanels
BY GOERGE I THINK WE"VE GOT IT!!! As for blocking the tweeter, you are correct, if you cover it up with your handyou will block it out, BUTT you are covering the whole thing at the source. When it is at you feet, you will be surpised how crisp the highs are when people are in the truck. You also have to remember that if you are going through the trouble of kick panels and seperates, you SHOULD have a dedicated amp to go with it. Without the amp, it is like putting a stock 4 banger in a funny car (theres no point). Basically it boils down to this. How much time and money are you willing to spend. If you want to get serious about it then do the kick panels, trust me they will sound great!! If you just want a nice stereo, then use the factory door locations. Sorry for how long this is, but it's genetics he he he
F150Degrees - having an amp to components is not always needed. It all depends on the components.
A few years ago I had a set of pioneer 6 1/2 comps, first ran an older pioneer HU, then off a 30x2 amp , sounded so much better. Then I replaced them with a pair of premier 5 1/4 comps and got a new Premier 720 HU. Ran them off the HU for while, then hooked them up to the same 30x2 amp. To tell the truth I didn't notice much of a difference. So I tried a few other amps all the way to 50x2, and I liked the sound of them run off the stock HU the most.
If you buy comps that require high power then yes you need an amp. But lower power comps can run of HU no problem. Alot of HU are very powerfull in terms of pushing speakers.
[This message has been edited by captainoblivious (edited 05-16-2001).]
A few years ago I had a set of pioneer 6 1/2 comps, first ran an older pioneer HU, then off a 30x2 amp , sounded so much better. Then I replaced them with a pair of premier 5 1/4 comps and got a new Premier 720 HU. Ran them off the HU for while, then hooked them up to the same 30x2 amp. To tell the truth I didn't notice much of a difference. So I tried a few other amps all the way to 50x2, and I liked the sound of them run off the stock HU the most.
If you buy comps that require high power then yes you need an amp. But lower power comps can run of HU no problem. Alot of HU are very powerfull in terms of pushing speakers.
[This message has been edited by captainoblivious (edited 05-16-2001).]


