Installing components in your door.
First Buy a sheet of ABS (<15$)
Next get a stock speaker:
Trace the Stock speaker onto you abs sheet (I used an awl):
Cut the outline out.
Use your templates (supplied with you component speaker) and mark and cut out speaker holes. Also drill screw holes. Doesn't have to be pretty (but it does have to seal)
Insert speakers:
(I used screws and silicone for the 5 1/4" and epoxy for the tweeter)
Hook up the cross over:
Mount the crossover and wire away from window path (I mounted by right near the hinge):
Mount speaker:
There is Insulation in front of the tweeter:
Trace it with a stock speaker, and cut it out:
Sounds so, so, much better. Removing the isulation that is in the way, may improve stock speaker performance.
Stereo Install: More pictures and in true color
Just part of the project, that will continue when I have more funds for stereo stuff.
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Next get a stock speaker:
Trace the Stock speaker onto you abs sheet (I used an awl):
Cut the outline out.
Use your templates (supplied with you component speaker) and mark and cut out speaker holes. Also drill screw holes. Doesn't have to be pretty (but it does have to seal)
Insert speakers:
(I used screws and silicone for the 5 1/4" and epoxy for the tweeter)
Hook up the cross over:
Mount the crossover and wire away from window path (I mounted by right near the hinge):
Mount speaker:
There is Insulation in front of the tweeter:
Trace it with a stock speaker, and cut it out:
Sounds so, so, much better. Removing the isulation that is in the way, may improve stock speaker performance.
Stereo Install: More pictures and in true color
Just part of the project, that will continue when I have more funds for stereo stuff.
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Last edited by IB Nolan; Jun 18, 2012 at 02:18 PM.
This article came just a bit too late. I already installed my 6.5" Boston Acoustic components on some store-bought adapter plates. They were simple plastic. I don't even want to tell you how much I paid. But I did save some money - I installed them myself.
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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP, blah, blah, blah
All the info is at http://www.fordf150.net
Now with How-To Articles!
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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4 SC/SB 4.6L, Auto., 3.55LS, TTP, blah, blah, blah
All the info is at http://www.fordf150.net
Now with How-To Articles!
I successfully used this technique to install Infinty 50.2cs components in my 2000 F150 SC Lariat. I used a 1/4" thick piece of plywood from which to fashion my adapter plates. The advantage of this over ABS is rigidity. I cut the general outer shapes with a scroll saw. I cut the holes for the woofers and tweeters with 4 1/2" and 1 3/4" hole saws respectively. I recommend first drilling mounting holes in the four plates and then using those holes to secure all four plates into a stack. Clamp the stack onto a workbench or drill press, and then employ the hole saws to cut all four plates at once. Remove each "hole" as your saw reaches successive layers and vacuum dust as you go. This will help keep your drill cool and trouble free.
www.fordf150.net has an article called "Speaker Replacement" that was also helpful. Gives great details on how to remove door panels and it also tabulates wiring colors.
Good luck,
zephyr
www.fordf150.net has an article called "Speaker Replacement" that was also helpful. Gives great details on how to remove door panels and it also tabulates wiring colors.
Good luck,
zephyr
I found plexi glass to work well. ANd not look that bad either.
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black 97' x-cab 4x4, 5 speed 4.6, black westin nerf bars, pilot ground searchers, borla SS split rear exhaust, K&N genII, bosch +4 plugs, superchip, flexalite electric fan, v-tech oval side window covers, IAS shocks
premier 720, pioneer 6cd changer, 12 premier sub, premier componets, 2 soso amps
still to come: new spark plug wires, new rims and tires, maybe a supercharger eventually.
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black 97' x-cab 4x4, 5 speed 4.6, black westin nerf bars, pilot ground searchers, borla SS split rear exhaust, K&N genII, bosch +4 plugs, superchip, flexalite electric fan, v-tech oval side window covers, IAS shocks
premier 720, pioneer 6cd changer, 12 premier sub, premier componets, 2 soso amps
still to come: new spark plug wires, new rims and tires, maybe a supercharger eventually.
SilverBullet:
Great technical article and pictures. Thanks very much!
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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4
Great technical article and pictures. Thanks very much!
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2001 F-150 Super Crew Lariat 4x4
- 5.4 engine
- Chestnut w/ gold trim
- Captain's Chairs
- Ford/ Duraliner bed insert
- Six disc cd changer (in center console)
- Fosgate FNP1614 component speakers (front)
- Pioneer TS-A6855 speakers (rear)
- Moon roof
- 98/99 Expedition center console
- Bed extender
- Class 3 trailer hitch
Silver,
Looks real nice, great job!! I do have one concern with reguards to the crossover. What did you do to prevent water from running down inside the door and getting the crossover wet? There is a lot of water that comes through there. I always use speaker baffles when I mount speakers in the doors just for that reason, better sound and vibration dampening is just a bonus.
Whenever I mount components in a door, I mount the crossover somewhere behind the kickpanel and run the wires into the door. It's a little more work but solves the water problem.
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Boss™
Ordered June 29th: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver 4x4, SC, SB, SS, 99L 5.4L, 44E tran, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Planned Mods:
"Protected by the Owner and his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, headers, Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system
Looks real nice, great job!! I do have one concern with reguards to the crossover. What did you do to prevent water from running down inside the door and getting the crossover wet? There is a lot of water that comes through there. I always use speaker baffles when I mount speakers in the doors just for that reason, better sound and vibration dampening is just a bonus.
Whenever I mount components in a door, I mount the crossover somewhere behind the kickpanel and run the wires into the door. It's a little more work but solves the water problem.
------------------
Boss™
Ordered June 29th: 2001 F-150 Lariat, Oxford White/Silver 4x4, SC, SB, SS, 99L 5.4L, 44E tran, 7700# payload, Class III Tow, 3.73LS, Skids, Leather Captains, 4W disc ABS, shift-on-fly, keyless, HD everything
Planned Mods:
"Protected by the Owner and his 2 friends, Smith & Wesson" sticker, Westin Chromed Stainless Nerf Bars, ARE LS II bed cover, Bedrug™, Gibson Swept Side Cat Back, K&N filter w/airbox mods, headers, Superchip, 3" body lift with at least 33's, alarm/pager/auto start system, stereo system
Boss,
How bout some pics of the crossover install? How hard is it to mount them behind the kick panels?
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Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.
Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS, American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, K&N filter, Blaupunkt Houston CD player, Blaupunkt P652c & PCxt573 speakers, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"
Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, Flowmaster 40 Series muffler and stainless exaust tip, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), stainless nerf bars, hood deflector.
How bout some pics of the crossover install? How hard is it to mount them behind the kick panels?
------------------
Stock Stuff:
Y2K SCab 4X4, Chesnut Metallic, 5.4L, 3.55 Limited Slip, Skid Plates, Factory AM/FM/CD, 40/60 Split Bench, Sliding Rear Window, Towing Package and Keyless Entry.
Extras so far:
305/70X16 GY Wrangler ATS, American Eagle Series 146 chrome wheels, K&N filter, Blaupunkt Houston CD player, Blaupunkt P652c & PCxt573 speakers, Catch-All floor mats, tinted windows to match factory rear glass, Bull Ring retractable tie-downs, www.f150online.com sticker below center brake light. University of Georgia hitch cover "GO DAWGS!"
Future plans (the good stuff):
Airbox/FIPK mod, Flowmaster 40 Series muffler and stainless exaust tip, spray in liner (or Herculiner haven't decided), stainless nerf bars, hood deflector.
Trending Topics
ONE,
When I get my new truck, I will take pics of how and where I put stuff and post them. As of right now, my VIN # is still on hold and hasn't gone into production yet. That makes 10 weeks since the truck has been ordered now.
It's really not that hard though. Instead of using the factory speaker wire inside the door to go to the crossover, trace it back where it's at inside your truck. You will find it behind the kick panel on both sides where the wire goes out of the cab into the door. Once you verify + and - wires, tap into it there and hook it up to the crossover. Then run the woofer speaker wire and the tweeter wire through the rubber boot and into your door. Cover the connections on the crossover with tape or something so nothing can short them out and mount it anywhere there is space behind the kick panel.
When I get my new truck, I will take pics of how and where I put stuff and post them. As of right now, my VIN # is still on hold and hasn't gone into production yet. That makes 10 weeks since the truck has been ordered now.
It's really not that hard though. Instead of using the factory speaker wire inside the door to go to the crossover, trace it back where it's at inside your truck. You will find it behind the kick panel on both sides where the wire goes out of the cab into the door. Once you verify + and - wires, tap into it there and hook it up to the crossover. Then run the woofer speaker wire and the tweeter wire through the rubber boot and into your door. Cover the connections on the crossover with tape or something so nothing can short them out and mount it anywhere there is space behind the kick panel.


