Here's a REAL Sub enclosure suckas!!!
nope they arent in yet and wont be until summer. Still need to get some time and funding for extra amplifier channels and a RF360.2 for extra processing.
But I have heard them in a couple installs and they do sound very very good and get plenty loud. The ones I heard were off 175w per channel (Zuki Eleets) and were crossed 200-6k. Sounded wonderful. Cant beat them for 50 bucks.
See:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...86-review.html
But I have heard them in a couple installs and they do sound very very good and get plenty loud. The ones I heard were off 175w per channel (Zuki Eleets) and were crossed 200-6k. Sounded wonderful. Cant beat them for 50 bucks.
See:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...86-review.html
i was looking at some of the other speakers dayton makes to piece together a 3way up front but wasnt to sure how they would hold up. i have been happy with there subwoofers though theve taken a beating for 6 years now and never missed a beat. just dont know if there smaller components are as durable
Last edited by jrfonte; Apr 23, 2009 at 01:40 AM.
The enclosure will stop just short of the bar and bracing allowing the seatbelts to remain in the factory locations
With a title "Here's a REAL sub enclosure suckas" I was expecting something custom built by the poster that would blow me away (or bring me extreme dissapointment and probablly a good laugh). Its all about attitude man, and that title came off with you thinkin you were hot ****. Just saying. The box does look nice though. Is the bottom of the box on the floor? or is it going to be on a bracket?
I don't have the building capability as a lot of you guys here, so I'd rather have it done right and more often than not that means leaving it to someone who does. I just wanted to show people that there are alternatives to sub enclosures. Giving options and looking at how others have done it is what this forum is all about.
I understand where you are coming from. Some people prefer the high powered ported enclosure, some (like myself) prefer the sealed enclosure with drivers designed for them.
As for Dyn and TC sounds making speakers tweaked to car audio, I really fail to see how these "tweaks" are worth the 1000 bucks you are paying. When I heard $50 Daytons compare to $250 Hybrids, I just dont see why one would spend so much money on those speakers unless they want the name. Sure, they sound fantastic and are the best you can get. But when you can get similar performance out of actual home audio drivers with proper installation and tuning while paying 50-75% less, why not go that route?
Just my opinion, I dont have money to buy expensive stuff so I find alternatives.
As for Dyn and TC sounds making speakers tweaked to car audio, I really fail to see how these "tweaks" are worth the 1000 bucks you are paying. When I heard $50 Daytons compare to $250 Hybrids, I just dont see why one would spend so much money on those speakers unless they want the name. Sure, they sound fantastic and are the best you can get. But when you can get similar performance out of actual home audio drivers with proper installation and tuning while paying 50-75% less, why not go that route?
Just my opinion, I dont have money to buy expensive stuff so I find alternatives.
), a decent knowledge base of how car audio works, and I'm just going off what I have heard personally. If I ever got to listen to your truck, there's not a doubt in my mind it wouldn't sound good. I spend the money because I know how its going to perform because I've heard it...IDK, does that make sense?
how the hell were they running off 175w and not smoking there only 35 40 w rms speakers?
i was looking at some of the other speakers dayton makes to piece together a 3way up front but wasnt to sure how they would hold up. i have been happy with there subwoofers though theve taken a beating for 6 years now and never missed a beat. just dont know if there smaller components are as durable
i was looking at some of the other speakers dayton makes to piece together a 3way up front but wasnt to sure how they would hold up. i have been happy with there subwoofers though theve taken a beating for 6 years now and never missed a beat. just dont know if there smaller components are as durable
See what I mean, that's why I IM you...lol I don't know a lot about Daytons etc, honestly I've never (to my knowledge) been exposed to them. I'm just a consumer who has (IMO) a knack for what sounds good (former SQL car owner and yes my car was built for me
), a decent knowledge base of how car audio works, and I'm just going off what I have heard personally. If I ever got to listen to your truck, there's not a doubt in my mind it wouldn't sound good. I spend the money because I know how its going to perform because I've heard it...IDK, does that make sense?
), a decent knowledge base of how car audio works, and I'm just going off what I have heard personally. If I ever got to listen to your truck, there's not a doubt in my mind it wouldn't sound good. I spend the money because I know how its going to perform because I've heard it...IDK, does that make sense?I understand where you are coming from. Some people prefer the high powered ported enclosure, some (like myself) prefer the sealed enclosure with drivers designed for them.
As for Dyn and TC sounds making speakers tweaked to car audio, I really fail to see how these "tweaks" are worth the 1000 bucks you are paying. When I heard $50 Daytons compare to $250 Hybrids, I just dont see why one would spend so much money on those speakers unless they want the name. Sure, they sound fantastic and are the best you can get. But when you can get similar performance out of actual home audio drivers with proper installation and tuning while paying 50-75% less, why not go that route?
Just my opinion, I dont have money to buy expensive stuff so I find alternatives.
As for Dyn and TC sounds making speakers tweaked to car audio, I really fail to see how these "tweaks" are worth the 1000 bucks you are paying. When I heard $50 Daytons compare to $250 Hybrids, I just dont see why one would spend so much money on those speakers unless they want the name. Sure, they sound fantastic and are the best you can get. But when you can get similar performance out of actual home audio drivers with proper installation and tuning while paying 50-75% less, why not go that route?
Just my opinion, I dont have money to buy expensive stuff so I find alternatives.
how the hell were they running off 175w and not smoking there only 35 40 w rms speakers?
i was looking at some of the other speakers dayton makes to piece together a 3way up front but wasnt to sure how they would hold up. i have been happy with there subwoofers though theve taken a beating for 6 years now and never missed a beat. just dont know if there smaller components are as durable
i was looking at some of the other speakers dayton makes to piece together a 3way up front but wasnt to sure how they would hold up. i have been happy with there subwoofers though theve taken a beating for 6 years now and never missed a beat. just dont know if there smaller components are as durable
When I had my JL XR's bridged I was sending over double power to the set and not once had an issue. (70WRMStherm and I sent approx 160ish to each side). Just ask Jake (BlackF150337), he bought the XR's from me 6months ago.
Many times you can greatly exceed the rated capabilities of a speaker and not see issues. It really depends on a few things: the build quality, the clarity of the signal being sent through it, frequencies played, volume moderation (listening for any signs of struggle), etc.
When I had my JL XR's bridged I was sending over double power to the set and not once had an issue. (70WRMStherm and I sent approx 160ish to each side). Just ask Jake (BlackF150337), he bought the XR's from me 6months ago.
When I had my JL XR's bridged I was sending over double power to the set and not once had an issue. (70WRMStherm and I sent approx 160ish to each side). Just ask Jake (BlackF150337), he bought the XR's from me 6months ago.
While the amplifier is capable of 175rms, i doubt the speakers ever see that. The guy has his gains at zero. As for the 3way, find a nice set of tweeters to pair with the rs100 and the rs225 and with proper installation you will be very pleased.
Totally understand. I was the same way until I actually started hearing installs with these drivers (Peerless, Seas, Dayton etc).
Totally understand. I was the same way until I actually started hearing installs with these drivers (Peerless, Seas, Dayton etc).
Last edited by jrfonte; Apr 24, 2009 at 02:37 AM.
My 3-way front is going to be HAT tweeters, rs100 midrange and Peerless SLS midbass. 8s in the front doors with 9mm xmax =

Just wait to see which amplifiers I have coming soon to push this front stage.
Yeah I routinely have passengers, so I need the extra seating or I would've saved some $$$ and bought a regular cab...lol
As far going back to sealed for sound, I guess people like Martin Logan and Wilson Audio really don't know much about accurate bass reproduction. I wonder how they sell speakers from $10,000 to $150,000...hmmm and they're ported too? Nah...can't be!
As far going back to sealed for sound, I guess people like Martin Logan and Wilson Audio really don't know much about accurate bass reproduction. I wonder how they sell speakers from $10,000 to $150,000...hmmm and they're ported too? Nah...can't be!

It used to be in my 99 ext. cab, which is long gone.
But anywho, your going to tell me that just because some fancy smancy expensive home audio companies use ported applications, that ported is the end be all of enclosures???
Not at all, sealed enclosures have their place and sound really good with a fairly straight forward set-up. I just want people to know that SEALED FOR SQ is not the only option and a properly designed ported enclosure can be just as accurate and sound just as good (as illustrated by high-end home audio) and for more people than not (in my experience) it sounds better regardless of what kind of music you listen too


