Lightes dimming with bass
Lightes dimming with bass
My lights dim a lot with heavy hitting bass , I am using
4 guage wire 16' and a 1K capastor with a Alpine 1K amp and 2 10"s .
I thought the capastor would keep this from happening?
4 guage wire 16' and a 1K capastor with a Alpine 1K amp and 2 10"s .
I thought the capastor would keep this from happening?
Your probably going to get recommended either a yellow top or a powercell. Both kinda similar in that their dedicated power sources that you can add to your system, honestly if its just a minor thing, I wouldnt spend the extra money on it!
Hey Clar....
it's been a long time......
But I used to have a system in a little truck, which used 4 amplifiers. When my bass hit, all the lights in my truck dimmed..... But even more of a problem, was the fact that if I ran my stereo for more than 15 or 20 minutes with truck not running, I'd kill the battery, and need a jump to get it started.
My solution was, I got a second, deep cycle battery, mounted it in the bed, and ran all of the stereo equipment off of it. Then, I picked up a little battery isolater (cheap from any RV center, plus easy to install) and wired it in a "Y" configuration with my alternator, and from the main battery.
No more dimming lights, and I could play my stereo full blast for an hour, before the power would finally drop low enough for my amps to shut off. Then simply fire up the truck, with juice from the front battery... let it charge the stereo battery for a bit, and it was all good :-)
Worked great !
Peace,
Fish
But I used to have a system in a little truck, which used 4 amplifiers. When my bass hit, all the lights in my truck dimmed..... But even more of a problem, was the fact that if I ran my stereo for more than 15 or 20 minutes with truck not running, I'd kill the battery, and need a jump to get it started.
My solution was, I got a second, deep cycle battery, mounted it in the bed, and ran all of the stereo equipment off of it. Then, I picked up a little battery isolater (cheap from any RV center, plus easy to install) and wired it in a "Y" configuration with my alternator, and from the main battery.
No more dimming lights, and I could play my stereo full blast for an hour, before the power would finally drop low enough for my amps to shut off. Then simply fire up the truck, with juice from the front battery... let it charge the stereo battery for a bit, and it was all good :-)
Worked great !
Peace,
Fish
I would recommend getting a seperate battery for the system preffered yellow top, but the problem maybe your alterrnator, I had the exact same problem with my 04 f150 and putting a bigger cap in just decreased the dim but once i put a bigger alternator in the lights were fine and didnt dim at all either way will most likely work but if you wanna REALLY be sure get a bigger alternator
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There is some information on this thread that is inaccurate.
First the best way to wire a battery within 5 ft is to wire in parallel (+ to + and - to -). FUSE BOTH ENDS of +!
If outside of 5 ft: than run a wire from + to + and ground second battery to chassis. Then UPGRADE GROUND WIRE TO BATT 1 FROM CHASSIS!! (Also if both batteries arent identical : same lot, same voltage, hooked together at the same time then a 200A relay MUST be installed between the batteries. All audio then needs to be hooked to second battery.) FUSE BOTH ENDS of +!
Second, a capaCItor needs to be grounded to a > than 1ohm location and have a Big3 done prior to cap being installed.
Third, a capaCItor isnt supposed to be a catch all for any electrical shortcomings, most times its your battery that is low or the necessary upgrades havent been done to why your lights dim. A capaCItor is used for one of two things 1) Letting Low-frequencies pass OR 2) Averaging power drains from a device. But most people get a chit cap that isnt up to its faradic standards and put it on a system requiring more than the cap can supply.
First the best way to wire a battery within 5 ft is to wire in parallel (+ to + and - to -). FUSE BOTH ENDS of +!
If outside of 5 ft: than run a wire from + to + and ground second battery to chassis. Then UPGRADE GROUND WIRE TO BATT 1 FROM CHASSIS!! (Also if both batteries arent identical : same lot, same voltage, hooked together at the same time then a 200A relay MUST be installed between the batteries. All audio then needs to be hooked to second battery.) FUSE BOTH ENDS of +!
Second, a capaCItor needs to be grounded to a > than 1ohm location and have a Big3 done prior to cap being installed.
Third, a capaCItor isnt supposed to be a catch all for any electrical shortcomings, most times its your battery that is low or the necessary upgrades havent been done to why your lights dim. A capaCItor is used for one of two things 1) Letting Low-frequencies pass OR 2) Averaging power drains from a device. But most people get a chit cap that isnt up to its faradic standards and put it on a system requiring more than the cap can supply.
Last edited by Low_e_Red; Jul 12, 2008 at 02:38 PM.
I did laugh.
So words like bass, gasses, crass, harass, etc. make you laugh? Wow, we arent in 3rd grade.
So words like bass, gasses, crass, harass, etc. make you laugh? Wow, we arent in 3rd grade.
Last edited by Low_e_Red; Jul 13, 2008 at 09:41 AM.


