Routing MusicMoose Box

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Old 08-22-2007, 02:05 PM
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Routing MusicMoose Box

Well as many know with the Music Moose box, the sub literally sits on the floor. Can someone tell me exactly what I'd have to do to route out enough to make the sub perform without hitting the floor and making a slapping noise? I have a router (dads) but have no idea what bit to use and what to do after I route. Obviously I'd have to somehow re-enforce the wood? All help is appreciated. Thanks!!

-Matt
 
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:04 PM
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i raised my seat about 1/2 inch using washers, and my sub has a grille to keep it from hitting the floor. my sub has a built in grille, but you can buy grilles for your sub. i also use the musicmoose box. check my gallery for pics.
 
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:10 PM
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Thanks for the reply but I'm using JL 10w1's so as opposed to you, mounting depth isn't really a problem and it seems easier to rout the box. Maybe I'll throw in some washers for about a 1/2 inch lift. is it easy as just unscrewing the seat bottom, placing a few washers under it and rebolting?

but, anyone else got any ideas for routing this bad boy?
 
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MattStrauss
Thanks for the reply but I'm using JL 10w1's so as opposed to you, mounting depth isn't really a problem and it seems easier to rout the box. Maybe I'll throw in some washers for about a 1/2 inch lift. is it easy as just unscrewing the seat bottom, placing a few washers under it and rebolting?

but, anyone else got any ideas for routing this bad boy?
ya its a size T-50 bolt, just use a torque wrench to loosen it up quite a bit, have a friend lift the bracket up and just slide the washers in there. i didnt lift my seat for mounting depth, i did it so the box could be a little higher off the ground, so the sub would have room for excursion (i believe this is your issue).

you could also screw tiny wood blocks or rubber stoppers to the bottom of your box to provide room for your sub's linear excursion, but you may need to lift your seat .5 inches like i did.
 
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Old 08-22-2007, 05:46 PM
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Lifting the whole box/seat might be your best bet.

Im not sure how thick the wood on that box is, a lot of those prefabs are just 5/8ths though.
If you take the router to it to make the sub sit in the box a little more, your not going to have much of a lip left to mount the sub too.

Or if you want to cut a nice large hole in your good box and do some work, pretty much remake the whole baffle, then I have an idea.
 
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bartak1
Im not sure how thick the wood on that box is, a lot of those prefabs are just 5/8ths though.
i thought this too about most prefabs untilll my musicmoose box came. its 100% 3/4 MDF and very sturdy, i was quite suprised and quite impressed.
 
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:03 AM
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Did you call MusicMoose?

Did you happen to call MusicMoose? I am curious to see if he told you the same thing he told me...." I have never had a problem with one of my boxes."

I had to lift my seat about 3/8" and put some rubber feet on the bottom of the box to keep the sub from hitting the floor.

Since then, I bought a Supercrewsound box and an IDQ, IT ROCKS!

David
 

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Old 08-23-2007, 02:00 PM
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No, I havent called. Its been almost a year since I have bought it. The reason it took so long to notice was because I was still saving up for the subs. I bought the box first and then comps, amp, amp, subs.

Anyways, so noone has routed one of these? I'm ready to sell this piece.
 



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