Any Help/Suggestions would be appreciated.
Any Help/Suggestions would be appreciated.
Please keep in mind that I am completley new at this. Any suggestions would be welcomed as well.
After reading articles on this forum and around other sites I have decided to stick with my factory head unit at least until a better Double Din non nav/dvd unit comes out. I am going to add a Subwoofer though.
Here is what I have chosen as my amp, and component sub:
Clarion APX1300 AMP
http://www.cardomain.com/item/CLAAPX1300
And either
JL Audio 10W1V2D4 10"
http://www.tweeter.com/product/index...entPage=family
or
Polk Audio MM2104 10"
http://www.tweeter.com/product/index...entPage=family
Now being completly new at this I was just wondering if anyone knows any reason why i couldnt use the JL audio subwoofer with a Clarion amp and if they have any suggestions for what type of wiring products I should buy. I will be building my own box using the suggested specs on the JL audio website. Thanks in advance for any response.
After reading articles on this forum and around other sites I have decided to stick with my factory head unit at least until a better Double Din non nav/dvd unit comes out. I am going to add a Subwoofer though.
Here is what I have chosen as my amp, and component sub:
Clarion APX1300 AMP
http://www.cardomain.com/item/CLAAPX1300
And either
JL Audio 10W1V2D4 10"
http://www.tweeter.com/product/index...entPage=family
or
Polk Audio MM2104 10"
http://www.tweeter.com/product/index...entPage=family
Now being completly new at this I was just wondering if anyone knows any reason why i couldnt use the JL audio subwoofer with a Clarion amp and if they have any suggestions for what type of wiring products I should buy. I will be building my own box using the suggested specs on the JL audio website. Thanks in advance for any response.
You can use the clarion amplifier with the JL subwoofers. As far as wiring goes, I just went down to circuit city (you can go anywhere, I get a discount here is why I went to circuit city) and bought a 4 AWG amplifier install kit. These kits come with a 4 AWG wire to run from your battery to your power distribution block, a 16 AWG wire to run from you stereo's wiring harness to your amplifier as the remote turn on wire, a short 4 AWG ground and a fuse block. I would suggest not using a fuse any larger than 80 AMP, but I would start with a 60 AMP fuse. I personally have 2 Kicker Solo-Baric 10's pulling a total of 300 watts RMS to each subwoofer and the 60 AMP fuse works fine.
If you want to look at some Double-Din head units check these out here:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/L...2&k2=46&k3=173
If you want to look at some Double-Din head units check these out here:
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/L...2&k2=46&k3=173
Last edited by Taiichii; Apr 24, 2007 at 03:32 PM.
Thanks for your reply,
I was just thinking that the Amplifier I want to get runs at 300w RMS @4 ohms while the speaker I was looking at only runs at 150 rms @ 4 ohms. Is that to much power for that speaker? Will I need to upgrade to a 300w @ 4 ohms speaker or downgrade the amp?
Also
JL Audio is designating this as the best way to add bass to a factory system. Do you have any suggestions as to why this is a good or bad idea?
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_11.pdf
I was just thinking that the Amplifier I want to get runs at 300w RMS @4 ohms while the speaker I was looking at only runs at 150 rms @ 4 ohms. Is that to much power for that speaker? Will I need to upgrade to a 300w @ 4 ohms speaker or downgrade the amp?
Also
JL Audio is designating this as the best way to add bass to a factory system. Do you have any suggestions as to why this is a good or bad idea?
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_11.pdf
Last edited by BigBlack27; Apr 24, 2007 at 05:20 PM.
Yes, that is a little much for just one of those speakers. If you know what your doing you would be fine...for a beginner who isnt sure about a lot of things, I wouldnt do it.
Sure, its only 150 watts difference, but thats sending that speaker 200% of its rated power.
That Polk is a MUCH better match for that amp. Personally I would probably go with that Polk over that JL too.
If you are using that Clarion amp you will need to take a difference approach.
First off, youll need a Line Out Converter. It taps into your speaker wires and converst the high signal from them, to a low signal (RCA type connections). Personally I would tap into the front speakers too.
From there you can run the RCAs back to the amp.
You will also need to find a switched wire to use as a turn on wire for the amp.
Sure, its only 150 watts difference, but thats sending that speaker 200% of its rated power.
That Polk is a MUCH better match for that amp. Personally I would probably go with that Polk over that JL too.
If you are using that Clarion amp you will need to take a difference approach.
First off, youll need a Line Out Converter. It taps into your speaker wires and converst the high signal from them, to a low signal (RCA type connections). Personally I would tap into the front speakers too.
From there you can run the RCAs back to the amp.
You will also need to find a switched wire to use as a turn on wire for the amp.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate the help. I just ordered the Qlogic box and the Clarion Amp. Heading over to sound advice to listen to some Subs on my lunch break. Ill be sure to upload some pics when its all said and done.


