Here's my album, but I'll try and cut and paste the photos to this thread:

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=9559

I titled this incorrectly, 'front door' as this is actually a rear door. But it's the same concept for the fronts, just a different template shape.

I use 1/4" MDF since it's easy to cut out with a jig saw and is pretty cheap. Idea here is to bridge over the large space in the door panel with MDF and then to cover it all with soundproofing butyl. You really want to keep the back of the mid bass speaker isolated from the front of the speaker. This begins to achieve that by closing over the very large open space in the door behind the trim panel.

First I use cardboard and scissors to fashion a template:

 

Then I outline it on 1/4" MDF and cut it out with my Jig Saw:

 

Since I don't trust the MDF's thread holding power, I predrill the holes with the same diameter drill as the screw diameter, so the threads freewheel in the MDF as the self penetrating points drill into the sheetmetal.

I use 1/2" long so there's about 1/8" penetration behind the sheetmetal:

 

Next I attach the MDF to the door. Since the door panel is not entirely even, I cut the template to bridge as much of the space as possible and still have even overlap for the machine screws. I torque down to the 6 setting on my DeWalt 14 volt screw gun.

 

Finally I Rammatt over the panel and the door. The Rammatt bridges over the gaps and also serves to further hold the MDF firm to the door. These are the rear doors so I keep the OEM speakers. This treatment really helps the midbass on these OEM speakers.

I'm mostly concerned with front stage image, so I'll run full fronts mostly. I'll just keep these in for rear fill whenever I have rear passengers that don't appreciate imaging, and run them off the Head unit amp

AudioAugs

 

Here's a photo of the finished front door.

 

Looking good Augs. Thanks for the pics

 

I wonder if that provides any addition SQ boost compared to a heavy cover of sound deadening? My doors are done with maybe 2 complete sheets in a single layer. Still sucks that we gotta have all those holes for the panel hooks. Based on that I kinda doubt the MDF has much effect.

 

The MDF is there not so much to effect SQ, but to bridge over the large access hole so as to support the butyl mat, which DOES effect SQ for mid bass and lower frequencies and resonances at integer multiples of the fundamental frequency of the cab.

The RAAMat just doesn't bridge over that large access hole well.

For the tab holes, the best treatment IMHO for SQ is to trim the RAMMatt closely to the hole outline, but then to glue Ensolite over the entire door and trim flaps over the holes (vs removing the ensolite). It's not a perfect seal, but when the tab is inserted into it's hole, it levers back the flap of ensolite.

Better than nothing in my ears, which is really what it depends on. Also depends on how much sound energy you're running. If someone is powering up their subs substantially, it's gonna resonate to the point of distorting even the best mid bass installation. So also depends on one's preferred listening sound levels.

F= c/L Augs

 

Nice job Augs. I'm thinking about MB quartz too. What's the difference in sound going to a 6.5 vs 6x8? Did the tweets come with the speaks?

 

Thanks FX. I got the MBQuart Reference 6.5's together in a package deal along with their MBQ 1 inch Titanium dome tweets and passive crossovers, all for about $500 total including shpping. On sale. I still see a few of these packages for that sale price here and there on line. Can't remember the MB package part number but I'll look it over at home and see if I can find it for you to search on. I've always been a Quart fan, old company and new company.

MAJOR difference over the OEM oval's. Night and day. Mostly in avoided distortions and accuracy, paricularly at the slightly louder levels I like. The OEM's just dont' have the engineering for pushing all the freqs into at anything above conversation levels, and the low bass just resonants poorly. Don't know much about other's 6 x 8's. But most purists say round is better than oval...not sure I could tell the difference at this price point....

That being said, the OEM's sound a helluva lot better in the rear doors now that I've treated the doors properly, but they still distort at moderately high listening levels and aren't accurate. I run the rear OEMs off the HU.

The Crossovers help a lot too, routing the <80Khz to the sub and the >2.5 khz to the tweets would help even the OEM have better accuracy and less bass resonance, but makes the 6.5" MB Reference shine. I have the MB tweets reduced 1.5db in gain at the adjustable crossovers that came with the set as the MB metal dome tweets are a little harsh. I have them in the stock tweeter mounting points and they do a pretty decent job of raising the stage image without being too shrill.

Since my head unit has active EQ I'm going to try and bandpass the OEM rears at 100 to 150, centered at 120 to complement my low passed IDQ 10inch sub and remediating the natural fundamental freq of the Supercrew cab of about 110 hz (3 meter wavelength for a 1.5 meter cab, with speed of sound at about 330 m/sec).

I run the front's and sub off a Macintosh 4 channel. 2 bridged for the sub.

AudiophileAugs

Here's the system I bought. This one's for $300 bucks, 'buy it now'
http://cgi.ebay.com/MB-Quart-QSD216-...QQcmdZViewItem

ebayAugs

 

Wow, thanks for the write up and the link. I'm gonna do the same for the fronts, and i might use the same for the rear. I already have Memphis Audios in all the doors, 6x8's with a 4 channel alpine amp. I just don't like the sound all that well. My friend is going to buy those off me. I bought a JL Audio cleansweep a month ago and i'm going to hook that up too. I just bought a factory nav unit that i need to get reprogrammed. The one thing i'm going to do is the sound deadening. I put leather interior in my truck after i changed the speakers, and now the sound is much different now. The cloth interior absorbed the sound and with the leather, it just bounces around. Plus the tweets are mounted on the speakers and i want those mounted back where the stock ones were.

 

Here's the photo of the ensolite covered rear door with the flaps cut for the trim panel. I'll band pass these Rear OEM's at 120 hz off the active crossover on my headunit to help with the fundamental resonance issue in the S'crew. The sub will be low passed at 80hz.

 

Hey FX4 sounds like a good plan. I've heard that same complaint from any number of audiophile friends. the cloth interior does a helluva lot better job of SQ than the leather....but I like the leather and not sure I've the ears to tell the difference.

Anyhow I do hear the difference by making better enclosures. Whatever you do to the outside, be sure and try and get some absorption/deflection material behind your speakers. The back reflection into the cones off both the metal interior, or even matted interior, do hit the cone and cause distortion at higher sound energies. I've seen installations using 'egg crate' but here's what I did with closed cell foam Ensolite just behind the baffle.

If you decide not to do anything to the door interior, at least get some of this directly behind the speaker.

AudioAugs

 

Augs, did you have to trim the door panels at all for the speaker could fit? I thought read that someone said they had to. Do you have any pics with the panel back on and the grille off/on? Thanks for the trouble...