I'm going to be running 200W's to my comps, was wondering if I was going to need to run a different wire or could I just simply plug and play?
-Ben

 

Use stock wiring you mean?

Not with 200 watts...

 

Upgrade it to 12 Gauge.

I went with this: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KAR12BLS

Going in this weekend.

 

How many feet did you need to wire that sucker? It'll also be my first time, wondering how hard it would be to rewire the entire stock system.

By the way I've been looking to do some sound deadening. Probably going to go with some raammat BXT sound deadener.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
(For those who are curious)

How many sq ft did you need to deaden your car? I plan on doing outer wall, and both sides of the interior, stick in some egg crate foam (if the window allows it ) than claying the MDF.

I'll have my hands full, with 50 hours of work, midterm week, I'll be lucky to even take the panels of the door off. Cheers
-Ben

*edit*
For those intrested in sound deadening, I recommend this link!

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925

 

My Replies:

How many feet did you need to wire that sucker? It'll also be my first time, wondering how hard it would be to rewire the entire stock system.

I am actually doing the wiring ths weekend. Sunday to be exact. I posted everything I ordered here: https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=271883 just incase someone asked ths question. I ordered 100'. I doubt I will use it all, but it seems like I am working on one of my friend's rides every weekend, so it'll get used. I am using the bi-wire speaker cable inside the doors to the Rainbows. From what I understand the hardest part about replacing the stock crap wire is the door boots and getting the wire through them. I am going to research that around here before I jump into it. I am replacing the crap RCAs that my HU installer put in when he installed the deck as well.

By the way I've been looking to do some sound deadening. Probably going to go with some raammat BXT sound deadener. I went with the Damplifier, but the Raammat was going to be my next choice. We did a buddy of mine' chevy in damplifer and it was awesome, so I went the same route.

How many sq ft did you need to deaden your car? I plan on doing outer wall, and both sides of the interior, stick in some egg crate foam (if the window allows it ) than claying the MDF.

I bought 80' for the back wall and doors. If you listen to others, you will need twice that at a minimum because you will put on more than one layer, but I am going to use some great stuff on the hollow areas then apply the damplifier, then on the doors I am going to add some of the over kill pro. This should work well for me. I hear the egg crate is a good idea. I also heard that it could get nasty in there, so I went ahead and bought the speaker Kit while I was ordering from Second Skin.

I'll have my hands full, with 50 hours of work, midterm week, I'll be lucky to even take the panels of the door off. Cheers
-Ben

Good luck with all that. I'm and old fart and hearing the word midterm makes my brain hurt. This is one occasion where it's nice to be old and have college behind me.

*edit*
For those intrested in sound deadening, I recommend this link!

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925


Great read and site. I lurk around there like crazy. You can find some nice deals in the classifieds over there.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the great info. A question to pick your brain, what are the difference in the wires? I see you used 3 different types and are running the KAR124BLS Karma 12AWG Bi-Wire Speaker Kable instead of the Karma 12AWG Speaker Kable. Which wire is going where?

I've decided to go with second skin myself. If you ever head to the second skin forums (Im a forum junkie! ) they recommend a minimum of 40sqft PER DOOR! Same route your heading, ordering the 80sq ft of it, planning on doing each door with 40sq ft than layering it with overkill. Still debating whether Im going to order spectrum sludge to slap on top of it all, with the use of the eggcrate and all.

By the way, I've heard you can use a wirecoat hanger and just pull it through, thats what I'm going to do when I install the wires. Speaking of which I missed my fedex man, rainbows have to wait till monday to be picked up!

For anyone who wants to sound deaden, this is the stuff to use. Want to save a little money? Than use rammat, great product for its value. Of course this is me just squawking whatever the guys at secondskin told me so take it with a grain of salt
www.secondskinaudio.com/forum
-Ben

 

A question to pick your brain, what are the difference in the wires? I see you used 3 different types and are running the KAR124BLS Karma 12AWG Bi-Wire Speaker Kable instead of the Karma 12AWG Speaker Kable. Which wire is going where?

I am basically going to use the 12 gauge throughout the truck. I am going to make a run to each door then use the bi-wire for my Rainbow Crossovers. They have a + and - for both the woofer and tweater for the power in from the amp. I am going to use the bi-wire there. I will run the same 12 gauge from my HU to the rear fill (I am powering them off of the HU). I am going to run the 10 gauge from the sub amp to the sub. I got the Karma for one reason. It was they best wire they had in stock in those gauges. They have been out of the Kasa for a while or I probably would have measured more carefully and gotten what I needed for my truck in that model of wire.

 

Sounds good! Thanks again Dave.
Hopefully when I have time to do a write up and post pictures there will be no questions on; installing a W200, deadener, amps, rear view, rewire...basically the whole nine yards.

Thats The Vision!

Heres to The Vision

 

Jeeze sorry Dave but here’s some more questions to throw your way.

I assume your going to wire your battery to amp with the 10gauge as well? And wouldn't an 8gauge perform better? Only assuming this because I don’t see an amp kit in your purchase sheet.

Also what’s the purpose of a distribution/ground block?

Thanks again Dave, your my hero. If you're ever in San Diego / Riverside I'm buying you some brews.
-Ben

*Edit*
I might have been able to answer my own question! Got to love forum lurking on CA.com!
If you don't mind taking a look at this setup, or should I say byoon001's purchase list

(1) KLM 1/0 Amplifier Installation Kit -using fuse block and 250a
(1) KonFUSED Ground Distribution System '' "
(1) KonFUSED 2 Way Distribution System -switch the 1/0gauge to two 4gauge(No idea what size fuse I need any help?)
(2) KRY2-6M Krystal Kable 2 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable - From HU to Amps
(25') KAR12BLS-100 Karma 12AWG Speaker Kable - From amps to speakers (hopefully that’s enough wire!)
(8') Kolossus Kable 4AWG Black/Silver Power Wire - From distro block to amp
(12') KAR10BLS Karma 10AWG Speaker Kable -Amp to sub (sub not going in but I don't want to pay for shipping twice)
(10') KAR124BLS Karma 12AWG Bi-Wire Speaker Kable - For the crossovers

Whew that was extensive. Let me know how that looks, if you want to know what its for:
6.5 Rainbow SLC 265 comps
JL8w7 (still under debate, any recommendations?)
US-Amp MD22
JL 250/1
-Ben

 

wire: current flow: total amp power: RMS power

0 awg 334 amps 2763 watts
1 awg 265 amps 2193 watts
2 awg 210 amps 1740 watts
3 awg 167 amps 1381 watts
4 awg 132 amps 1096 watts
5 awg 105 amps 870 watts
6 awg 83.4 amps 690 watts
7 awg 66.2 amps 548 watts
8 awg 52.5 amps 435 watts
9 awg 41.7 amps 375 watts
10 awg 33.1 amps 273 watts

11 awg 26.3 amps 217 watts
12 awg 20.84 amps 172 watts
13 awg 16.54 amps 137 watts
14 awg 13.13 amps 109 watts
15 awg 10.42 amps 86 watts
16 awg 8.27 amps 69 watts
17 awg 6.56 amps 54 watts
18 awg 5.21 amps 43 watts
19 awg 4.13 amps 34 watts
20 awg 3.28 amps 27 watts
21 awg 2.60 amps 21 watts

 

First, don't apologize. Helping is what this forum is about. I couldn't possily contribute a third of the knowledge I was able to get from this forum.

Actually, you don't see my main power wiring on my order sheet because I already have 4 Gauge from the battery to the dist. block on the back wall. If I had it to do again, it would be 1/0 and not 4 Gauge. I may replace this at some point, but for now this works. The 4 Gauge that was used was Stinger Brand. It was about two and a half years ago when I originally put the system in this truck.

1/0 to the back really provides you with as much flexibility as you would want. With a good battery, it should provide you well over 13v. I think I get between 11.5 and 12 now.

The purpose of the distribution block is really to keep things neat and tidy while providing a good source of power all around. From what I read, they really help keep the noise down as well.

The purpose of the ground distribution block, which I do not have installed at the moment, is for a similar reason, I am going to have ground wires out of both amps. I am going to run them out of the amps and into this box and then have a 4 Gauge Ground wire to the frame/body.

On your list....

I ordered 40 amp fuses with mine. You can always change these easily. You can get the fuses anywhere.

100 feet of speaker wire should be plenty.

Love the 1/0 choice from the battery to the distribution block. I may redo this run myself with the same kit. I feel the same way about the choice of 4 Gauge from the dist. block to the amps. Use 4 Gauge to ground as well and be sure to ground to bare metal. Bust out the dremel and a wire brush "bit" and get that paint off.

The 12 Gauge bi-wire is completely optional. You could always use some connectors and solder to achieve the same thing and save a few bucks. I did it mostly to experiment to see how it works.

On your speaker/amp choices...
Obviously, the choice of the Rainbows is a fantastic one.

Subs.... I am running the JL Stealth box that is made for our trucks. The version 1 of that box, which has th 10w3v3 in it. It sounds good and fits perfectly. The new version is actually in a smaller box and is sealed. With it sealed, it might provide a deeper sound than mine. I am kicking the idea of replacing this around at the moment, but I have no idea what I would change it out with. I my wait until the fall, when the new JL TW5 Thin-Line subs are available and experiment with those. I would likely put in two of those. Whichever you choose, if you go the JL route, your 10 Gauge Sub wire should work fine. If you do decide to go with more power to the sub, you are talking about less than a dozen feet of larger wire, which wouldn't be that much money. The chart that rustyzipper posted tells you what kind of power you can push through the wire by size. Great reference rusty!

I like the JL 250/1. They are rock solid. I would tell you that I would give your subs as much power as they can handle with those Rainbows on the US Amps Merlin. The Rainbows have made my Sub seem a bit weak. It's still there and sounds great, but I would like some deeper bass.

About your US Amps MD22. You may have trouble finding the MD22. They are now on the MD23. The specs are quite similar. I would PM a guy that goes by Flacko on this forum and talk to him about your US Amps needs. He can hook you up.

Dave

 

Thanks again Dave. I believe I have that statement hot keyed to my keyboard.

Unfortunately I ran into a little wall, my amps input are listed as an 8gauge. Would there be any problem running a 4gauge to it?

Once I get all these questions answered the system install will REALLY begin. Didn't really want to deaden my doors and block off the holes only to have to try to install wires through it.
-Ben

 

>>>I like the JL 250/1. They are rock solid.<<<


I would totally agree regarding the JL Audio amps. While some do not put a lot at stake in damping factor, JL's are the highest I've seen, specifically at their price point. Same can be said for their slew rates.

Slew Rate: This is a term used to describe how quickly the output of an amplifier can track its input. Slew Rate is usually measured in V / usec. The higher the value (up to a point), the better the amp is at potentially reproducing the subtle nuances and dynamics associated with music reproduction.

Damping Factor: This is a quantity which defines how quickly the amplifier can stop a reproduced frequency such as a bass note. The higher the damping factor, the better the amp will control the woofer and help reduce overhang distortion (again to a point). The damping factor of an amplifier is mostly dependent on the output impedance of the power amplifier and the ability of the power supply which feeds the power amp.

 

First, Rusty is the man! The guy obviously knows his stuff.

4 Gauge will likely not fit in the amp. You could run 8 Gauge out of the distribution block. What amps are you talking about? I ask because both the JL and the US Amps will accept 4 Gauge.

I just put in my speaker kit, built the new baffles for the Rainbows, and started to tighten up the doors. I did some investigation on the wiring. Rewiring is indeed going to be a b!tch because of the door boot and it's location inside the cab. There is also a lot going on in that boot. Far more than I thought.

Dave

 

Rusty,
Great info, although I will admit about 33% of it flew right over my head the first time.

I have a question. I have the original stealth box for the 2004 and up F150. It's ported. The new on is a sealed setup. Do you think that the new one, given the same amount of power, will put out a deeper sound?

If you don't know, that's cool. It looks like you know a lot about this stuff, so I thought I would ask.

Ben,
Sorry for a bit of hijacking here.

Dave