Ive been a forum troll for sometime, just reading up. Ive seen several different ways to wire everything up and get it to rock. I would just like your 2 cents on what I really should be doing.


Ive got a 2 channel 1000 watt amp to power 2 cvr10 kickers, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=230073578649.

Im not sure if I needed it, but I also bought a Line-output converter, one of the Audiolink 2 versions. (6disc mp3 stock hu) The amp I bought say it has all the crossover and adjustable stuff just looking at the link I posted.

And my last question, should i just splice into the rear speaker wiring or just cut the rear speakers out. And there are many different wires running under the door seal in my 05 ext cab. Just wish i knew which wire was which.

Planning to instal tomorrow night, will http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=220068756680 be a sufficient kit to get me going??

oh forgot about my box, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=190070709350
the box fits great under my seat without a seat lift, just curious to if anyone has any experience with this box pros/cons. It looks to be built sturdy and its sealed really well.

Well thats my setup.

Plan on getting a 4 chann amp and some new componets and speakers in the future.

 

Forgot, one more thing, how should I wire my subs? at 2 ohm, 4 ohm?? series or parallel??? My subs can handle 300w rms and 600 peak, will my amp be good enough?? with only 200w rms @ 4ohms?? I posted the link to the amp with the specs, just wana know the best way to set it up for best sound.

 

Yes you will need the LOC. All you need to do is strip a insulation off the wire, wrap the wire leade from the LOC around it, and solder it. If you dont have solder tape will work fine too. No need to cut the harness off.

What coil configuration are your subs (DVC, SVC, 2 ohm, 4 ohm???) that will depend on how you can wire them. Best option is to wire them bridged on the amp, if you can get a 4 ohm load with your subs that is.

 

They are dual 4ohm voice coils.

# 2 x 200 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
# 2 x 500 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
# 1 x 800 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
# 2 x 375 Watts at 2 Ohms

is what the amp says



And I was reading about the remote turn on wire to the amp, is their a specific place I need to wire this?? And if anyone can give me more info on what exactly this does. Thankyou very much for the responses, you guys are great.

 

Dual 4 ohm is good news for you. What I would do is wire each sub up in parallel, then series wire them together. Or series wire each sub, and parallel wire them together, doesnt matter, you will get the same load either way.
Then wire them up bridged on the amp.

I see in another post that the factory amp turn on wire is dk. green/purple. So that is the wire that you need to tap into for the turn on wire.
The turn on wire gets power when the radio is turned on, and sends a signal back to your amp to tell it to turn on. When the radio is turned off, the turn on wire doesnt have any power, so the amp will turn off.

 

My amp has a 800 watt max bridged at the amp, will that be powerful for my 600 watt max subs and im not familiar with the bridging process if you might wana elaborate on that process at my expense . I know how to series wire and parallel wire a single sub, but not quite sure with doing them together. I remember seing a picture on the12volt.com so im looking for that as we speak. Thanks for the help again, just trying to get everything understood perfect for my setup before I begin tomorrow.


I was reading up on the same thing, but there was a problem with the turn on wire always outputting power to the HU for time and what not... They were saying you need to find a line that turns off when the keys come out.

 

I found the image on how to wire them, but with my box being spread across the back of my truck, would I just run the wire of the positive/negative from the amp to one my speaker wiring connectors on the box, and then inside the box I run them from just one sub to the other? with it just ending at the second sub?? thats the way i see it in the diagram, i may be wrong.

 

Yes, you can do it that way just fine.


Bridging is 'combining' the two channels. You usually use the Left channels positive, and the right channels negative, but it can be the other way around depending on your amp. If your amp comes with a manual it should tell you how to do it. Or most amps have a marking on the amp, something like a line connecting a positive from one channel to the negative on the other channel, with the word "Bridge" on it. That means you use those two terminals to run it bridged.

I really cant help you on a different turn on wire, I just dont know a whole lot about the new style trucks. Someone might chime in with the answer. Or you can start back probing the harness to find something...

 

Oh one last question, where is the best place to mount my amp and LOC?





Thankyou very much for the help, ill figure out what I need to do for the turn on wire from looking a little more, but ill see about getting some pics up tomorrow and get my truck sounding good. And mabey in about 2 weeks, a 4chann amp with new speakers.

 

I found a site with instructions to take down the rear seat, but with me using the stock headunit wouldn't I have to adjust the amp?? or can I just use one setting on the amp to make it sound great? And is there any tricks to mounting the amps on the back wall?

 

The back wall is a great place. Just get your amp adjustments right and you shouldnt need to mess with it any more. All that amp probaly has is a gain and crossover adjustment. Set your gains right, mess around with the crossover and set it where you like it, and then put your seat back together and you shouldnt have to mess with it anymore.

In the 04+ models I believe there is quite a bit of room behind the radio for the LOC. Or if you are tapping into the rear speakers, you can tap wire into them by the rear doors and run it back to behing the rear seat, and mount the LOC back there.

As for mounting the amp, try not to screw all the way through to the outside. I did it on mine a time or two, but at the time it was about the only option I had. I didnt like to do it, but it worked.
The best thing is to either screw it into the metal where it is double walled, or else mount some MDF back there to screw the amp into. If you look in my gallery you can see how my amp is mounted on a piece of MDF. On the top it is secured with screws that screw into a double walled part, and on the bottom its screwed into the lower back seat mouting tab things.

 

Well, I did the instal today, everything went prefect!!!

and I dont even know how to say how damn good this setup sounds now, cant wait to finish it with another amp and some componets!!!!!

Thankyou for all the help!!! Now its time to relax



Oh and i havnt mounted the amp yet, but i dont know how im going to fit some mdf board back there along with the amp, its a pretty good size amp. And I think my only option is to drill through to the outside, buts its not big a deal cuz i will use stainless steel screws and just seal it up real good. And i also just wired up the subs to each channel instead of bridging, cuz the first thing that popped out of the amp box was a paper saying not to do that [(>.)>]

 

Good to hear you got it in and going. There are a few guys on here that have up to 3 amps on their back wall...you can fit more than you think back there. Look up some ones galler like Dconder's, Truckin's, or Brypink's and you can see how they mounted thiers.

I did not realize that amp wasnt bridgable. Good think you didnt listen to eveything I said huh

 

Yeah, I've seen those huge amps in those galleries, I'm amazed they don't shake there trucks apart, with my 1000 watt amp, it hits hella hard. Atleast now I can tell how much I need some mid's lol... thanks for all the help!

 

Haha, no problem