Well you guys are probably getting tired of me asking questions about boxes, but I still don't know what to do.. I've been doing some looking and thinking and I've decided I don't want a box to sit it in the back seat.. I want one under the rear seat.. But I have no room at all.. I know I'll have to get a seat lift, but there's no one who makes boxes under the rear seat for a '95.. So how would I be able to do a box under the seat on mine? Do it myself? 'cause we're gonna make the seat lift for it..
Thanks again guys..

I tried to post some pics I took, but they wouldn't upload.. So I'll get 'em up soon.

 

Yes, I would just make one yourself. With my buddy's '93 we just made a big rectangular box that slid under the seat. Nothing fancy or hard at all...

 

Thanks for the help! So his would be the same body style as mine since it's a '95 right? Also, would you mind posting a pic of the box ya'll made to give me some ideas? I'm not looking for a real expensive box or nothing real nice, just something to go under there.. Would down firing or up firing be better? I havn't decided if I'm going with 2 Kicker CVR 10's or the DCVR 12's.. Probably one of the 2.. Anyways, if you could get the pics that'd be great!
Thanks

 

I dont know if I will be able to get a pic or not. If so it wont be till Monday, and even then I might not be able to. Ill see what I can do. Yes its the same body style.

I always go with downfiring.

The 12's ,might stick out from under the seat a little to far and take up some leg room...Im not positive on that.

 

Alright that's cool.. If you can please do, if not it's cool.. Also, if you have the demensions of the box that would help too.. I just wanted to see a pic of what the box looked like..
I might go with the CVR 10's then.. One of my friends has them in a downfire box in his Z71 and they sound real good.. Or I might look at the Alpine Type E subs.. I think that's what they are.. Those any good?

 

Overall Id say the CVR's are better than the Type E's. The CVR's will probably have more output, give the SQ to the Type E though...

 

Yea, I'll probably wind up going with the CVR 10's.. So do you have the deminsions of the box? 'cause some of my friends say I can build a box for hardly anything.. What size seat lift do I need to get so the box will be able to fit?

 

Hey, sorry I was not able to get a picture or dimensions of the box. I havent had the chance to at all, and I probably wont see him for some time now. I apologize for that.

His subs are roughly 5 1/8 inches in depth, so we probably made the box about 6.5 inches tall. Depth is probably around 12 inches. Not sure on width. I remember we ended up with about .66 cu ft. per sub (three subs).

We lifted the seat 3 inches, BUT, we had a sub in the middle of the box right above the driveshaft hump, so we had to lift it more than usual to clear that. If you are only using two subs, you can put a sub on either side of the driveshaft hump you can probably get away with a smaller lift. With his lifted 3 inches, there is very minimal headroom. Im 6 foot, and I cant sit back there to long without getting a neck cramp because I either have to have my head tilted to the side, or looking down.

I looked on crutchfield and see that the 10 inch Kicker CVR is 5 9/16ths inches deep. Add roughly 3/4ths of an inch between the back of the sub and the box and you have 6 1/4 inches. Add 3/4ths for the wood and your up to 7 inches. So your box will need to be 7 inches tall. You could probably maybe get away with 1/2 inch between the sub and box and reduce the box height to 6 3/4 inches if you wanted too.
Now, your also going to need a little space between the sub and the floor. The sub has an Xmax of 13mm, which is pretty much 1/2 an inch. Add the subs mounting flange and a little more for space between floor and sub at full xmax, and youll probably want about 1 1/2 inches between the box and the floor.

SO, looks like your going to need around 8 1/2, maybe 8 1/4 inches under the seat...

 

Alright thanks man! That doesn't sound to bad.. I think maybe this weekend me and my dad are gonna make me a seat lift, 'cause he knows how to do it and it'll be alot cheaper.. So you think I should get a 3" lift then? 'cause that's what I was thinking about.. And yea, I'm 6' too and I know that it'll be harder for taller people to sit in back.. But oh well, least it'll sound better.. lol.. What do I need to make the box out of? and how much do you think it'll run me? I know it will be cheaper then buying one already made..
Also, I know I've asked this before.. But I have a Pioneer GM-520T amp.. Will that work with the Kicker CVR 10's? It doesn't have a deal where I can put a **** up front to adjust the bass level, it just has a deal on the amp that's goes 0-6-12.. And, what's the point of bridgeing? 'cause it's a bridgeable amp it says... Sorry for all the ?'s, but I have like no clue about this stuff.. lol..
Thanks again man!

Here's the amp link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pioneer-2-Channe...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Since you are custom making the lift, I would make it the minimum amount you can. Say you have 6 inches under the seat already, then I would just lift it 2 1/2 inches so you can get your 8 1/2. Just enough to make it fit, and no more. Otherwise, you will be sacraficing head room.
I cant remember at all how much room is under there already, so I cant say exaclty how much you should lift the seat.

You will need 3/4 inch MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) to make the box out of. You can get a 4x8 ft. sheet of it for about 20 bucks. You will also need a tube of Liquid Nails to glue all the joints, and a tube of silicone to smear along the joints on the inside of the box to seal. You will want something to hold the box together as the liquid nails is drying, and you can either use screws, or else clamps to hold it. If you use screws, dont forget to predrill the holes or else you WILL split the wood.
So, total cost, your looking at 20ish for the wood, and 10ish bucks for the tube of liquid nails and silicone, and screws if you want. Then whatever the cost is of the material you want to cover the box with.

Yes, that amp will work.
Bridging is when you 'combine' the left and right channels of the amp to form one channel, to get the most power out of your amp. You will only want to bridge the amp if you can wire the subs for a 4 ohm final load (you would need the Dual 4 ohm version of those subs). That amp bridged will put out 380 watts RMS, so you would have roughly 190 watts going to each sub.
The 0-6-12 is most likely a bass boost. It will boost the bass at a certian frequency. You can just play around with that and put it whereever you like, I always have mine on 0 if I have bass boost though. Much flatter response, and cleaner sounding.

If you need anything else or further explanation, just ask!

 

Ok thanks, that's not that bad of a price to build it.. Will I need 1 or 2 sheets of the MDF?
And I understand bridgeing now.. I've seen everyone talk about it, but I never understood it..
Ok, well I went out and was just messin' around mesuring stuff and I came up with this:

Length: 52 1/2
Depth: 12"
Floor clearance for subs to hit: 1 1/2
Subs are 6" deep
Seat to floor clearance is 6 1/2
3/4 for the wood
3/4 between the back of sub and box
Box height with everything around 8 1/2
Seat lift: 2 1/2

So does that sound ok or what needs to be changed? Also, 1 1/2" will be enough for the subs to clear the floor at max right? And when you say the driveshaft hump was in the middle, I have 2 humps under the seat, and both of them are right where the subs would be mounted.. But I think it should be easy to miss that.. idk.. under the back seat in my truck's all wierd.. lol.. But thanks for all the help man! Everything I've asked you answered I and get it now.. Thanks! I'll probably have some more questions soon.. lol

 

One sheet of MDF will probably be more than enough.

If there is 6 1/2 inches between the seat and the floor directly below the subs are, and you need 8 1/2 inches clearance total, then you will only need a 2 inch lift.

Are you positive those subs are 6 inched deep? Crutchfield says 5 9/16ths, and if they are right, then 8 1/2 inches will work. If they are 6 inched deep though, you might want to add another half inch to get 9 inched under there total.

If those humps are right where the sub is going to be, your going to need to get your 8 1/2 inches of clearance between the high point of those humps, and your seat bottom. If not, you might end up sliding your box under there and having the subs sitting right on those humps.

You wouldnt happen to have a picture would you?

 

Ok thanks.. I was just rounding the subs off 6" though.. But my dad said what we're gonna do is buy the subs first, then build the box and decide on how much of a lift to go once that's all done.. But yea I'll be able to get a pic up, maybe tonight.. We've already taken the back seat out for it..

 

Sounds like your dad has the right idea.

Good luck with everything, definatley get pics when you get it done

 

Everything so far is correct....
i went with kicker 10L7, loudest and hardest hitting sub for the money...i made my box for my back seat and just pulled out my seat, untill i make the seat lift...in that case noone will be able to sit back there...haha oh well.

Good Luck and hope it/will turn out good.

NICK