I am gonna do some audio work to the truck even though I swore I never would. I am tired of my stereo's being jacked so I am keeping my stock 6 disc but replacing the stock speakers with Infinity Kappa 6x8 components in front and Kappa 2way w/ x-over in the back. I am gonna run the Infinity Referance 656W x 4 amp with 12 - 14g wire. Should I throw in the cheaper infinity reference 6x8's in the rear so I dont take away from the fronts? I was also thinking about getting just a 2 channel amp and only amp the fronts and leave the rears on stock HU... All adding up ~ 450.00 off ebay and installing myself...

I know in my 3 previous ford's the stock HU's didn't have RCA outs to I assume the same thing in my newer truck... I will have to get the converter deal...

I have had my eyes wandering on ebay finding myself looking at subs and dual 10 boxes, but may go with the bazooka or something similar just to be able to take in and out as I wish... The speakers are my focus now though... Any additional help appreciated...

 

Yes, you will need the line output converter if you stick with the stock stereo because there aren't any RCA outputs on the factory stereo.

And regarding the Infinity References, I put the 6812cf Infinity speakers in my truck (with about 60 watts per speaker) and it is just stupid how much they were lacking bass. I mean, I can't even describe how pathetic it was. The highs were ear piercing and the lows weren't there. It only took me about 2 weeks to just spend the extra money and get the Polk Momo's. Now those are some serious speakers. That's what I would recommend all the way around. I wish that I had of cut and went with the 6.5 instead of the 5.25, but maybe later....

 

Is that 12-14 awg your speaker wire or power wire? If power, run bigger. At least 8 awg and 4 awg would be better and 1/0 would be best if you plan on upgrading down the road.

 

I agree with 0-4g for power wire/ground. The infinities are cheap, but i actually prefer my stock speakers over my roomates infinities. Hes got the ones just above reference, i think its power series or something like that.

Once you put subs in you wont like the sound at all without, so dont worry about making it convinent to take out. Maybe you could consider hiding an aftermarket HU somewhere other then stock place, just to maintain factory look, without cutting corners on SQ

And to me its easier to make your own custom box, tuned the way you like it, then spend 250-300 on a prefab box, with at most 40 bucks of materials.
-Patrick

 

If you run Infinity AMPs you need big wire. They suck alot of power. I'm running 2 in my F150 and I'm running 4 Gauge it seems to be the best choise.

 

I like my Infinity's.

 

Sorry about the misunderstanding with speaker/power wire. I was refering 12-14g for speakers and I normally run 6g for power. I will look into polk momo's, I had a set of 6.5 adapters to make them fit in my 6x8 holes in a ranger so I may go that route. I believe my 6.5's were a 2way non component and they stuck out too far, so I should be ok with components.

Thanks for the help, I will do more research before buying infinity stuff... I have been out of the audio loop so long that I guess infinity isnt a popular brand anymore...

UPDATE!!!
I am going to go with Polk MOMO 6.5" components up front, and Polk MOMO 6x8 Coaxials in the back now I believe... I read more on the polk vs infinity and I am sold... Now, I need to search for a decent amp to push ~ 50w to each speaker. I think because I am not replacing stock HU, I will amp the back but not as high as the front. I found a 5 channel hifonix amp (not familiar with this brand either) and it would be ideal incase I do get the itch for a sub later on...

 

Update!!
I am stickin with the above speaker and gonna go ahead and get a new JVC HD Tuner Head unit. It will push these speakers with 50wX4 Max. I thought about alternate install locations to keep my 6 disc as a theft decoy, but I will just install the JVC in the place of the 6 disc. How does this set up look? I wont be installing an amp afterall unless I go with a sub or two later on. I may even get a bass tube or something similar that I can installl and uninstall with ease. The headunit is JVC KD HDR1 if anyone wants more info on it. Its the only Hi Def built in radio I could find. Any advice appreciated.

 

Remember that is only about 15 watts RMS. A little more than the factory HU, still not a lot of power though...you CAN get by with using the HU for power still, but a decent amp will still make a hige difference. Not to mention, if you do go with the components, I would REALLY look into an amp. Components just dont fair to well off of HU power. If you are still not wanting an amp, I think I would drop down to the coaxial version. You could just get a nice 2 channel for the front comps, and run the rears off the HU though...assuming you really want to stick with the components up front. (which is what I would personally do...)

Just some food for thought

 

I would stick with the amp and the factory head over the jvc. The 50x4 is peak power and wouldn't compare at all to even a 30x4 mid quality amp. The amp will keep it stealth and give you better sound.

 

AKK!!! I am just not gonna get away from the hassle of an amp for new speakers am it? I am eventually wanting to install subs, so I was trying to limit my system to one amp. I have been searching for a way to do this with a 4channel amp, using 2 channels for the front comps and the last 2 channels bridged to a 10" sub...

Any other options?

 

A 4 channel is a nice affordable way to do it. You can get a bigger one so you have some decent power when you bridge it for a sub, and then just turn the gains down for the fronts if its to much, or else get something that matches you comps good, and be a little lower for power on the sub.

If you got something like a 50x4 amp, that would match your comps quite well, you will GENERALLY have 200 watts for a sub. Perfectly fine if you just want a little bump, mainly just for SQ. Move up to 75ishx4 and you comps should still be able to handle it good, plus youll usually have around 300 watts for for a sub. Or maybe even bigger like 100x4, keep the gains low for your comps so you dont fry them, and still have in the 400 watt range for a sub.

Not saying thats how its always going to work out power wise, but thats how you will see it a lot of the time.

Heck, there are even some nice 3 channels out there with a POWERFULL sub channel if thats what your looking for...

 

3 channel would be nice. I honestly don't think I will use 2 subs, I listen to texas country so I'm not looking to be heard from down the block. I even thought about using the Kenwood dual 6.5" powered sub unit (shhh) just to increase sound quality. But If I am gonna go ahead and install an amp, I am gonna use a 10" sub setup instead.

 

I would definately consider that. If I ever get my other projects finished and get my amp installed thats basicallt what I will have. I have a rockford power1000 5 channel that I will be using as a 3 channel. About 250 watts x2 for the 3 ohm fronts and 800 mono for the sub.

 

This is more amp related, but I already have this thread going...

I am looking at some alpine 2/3/4 multichannel amps. I am confused as to how much power I will actually be pushing to components and a sub... So, below I listed an example (probably need something bigger). Now I would think I could use 2 channels to my front comps @ 75W each @ 4 ohm then to bridge the sub to the other 2 channels wouldnt it 150W brigded?? I am not getting how they are pullin 75x2 + 300 x 1 in a 3 channel set up. Thats 450W RMS total at 4ohm... Doesn't sound right to me...

ALPINE MRV-F345 V-12 4/3/2 CHANNEL CAR AMPLIFIER
Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (@14.4V, 20 Hz to 20 kHz)
Per channel into 4 ohms (0.3% THD): 75W X 4
Per channel into 2 ohms (1% THD): 150W X 4
Bridged into 4 ohms (0.3% THD): 75W X 2 +300W X 1