I'm running an infinity 1211a, the 2 solo's are 2ohm L7 12's is there a way to wire these subs to keep them both at 2ohms? I getting confused on it for some reason

Oh and if the ohm load is higher would this make all 3, 40amp fuses blow on the amp?

 

aren't the L7's duel 2 and 4 ohm coils? Basically you should wire so that you don't blow your speakers. I think your amp puts out 1300w (bridged) at 2ohm, right? That's more than you subs can handle. Go with the 4ohm. Check out this link: http://www.subthump.com/subtech.htm#...e%20my%20subs?This has some nice diagrams on it.

 

Is the L7 DVC? If so, yes..look at this:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161

 

brypink2 your diagrams are easier to read

 

When ever I get confused on sub wiring (and I do...LOL) I like using JL Audio's or Rockford Fosgate's. Both are easy to read.

 

cool thanks, yes the amp is 1300 watts @2ohms they are also DVC as far as them blowing they might might not thats the risk i take lol, i hear they wont blow so as you dont have any distortion in them i've had them on this amp for about a 8 months now still putting out some deep bass, if they blow i'll upgrade

 

You can never have too much power on hand, IF you know how to use it AND use your common sense. Just because an amp is rated at 1300 watts does not mean that you are using anywhere near that at a reasonable listening volume. RMS ratings are all about CAPABILITIES, and are simply a tool to use for setting up a system. I know of a competitor who used to have 8 Linear Power amps, each CAPABLE of over 1000 watts RMS, and each running to single speaker, none of which was rated at more than 100 watts RMS. Even each one of the tweeters was using an amp CAPABLE of over 1000 watts RMS. Were they actually getting that much power at any time? Of course not.

While on this subject, it is a myth that RMS ratings of speakers and amps MUST be matched up. While there is nothing wrong with that practice, to say it is mandatory is not true. Knowledge and good sense are the key.

 

It's pointless to have a 1000 watt amp driving a 100 watt speaker unless you are planning on driving more speakers or bigger speakers in the future. But you make a good point in that you can never have enough power.

 

It's all about noise floor and headroom and such things that are seldom mentioned. It's also seldom mentioned that having an amp and speakers that are rated the same, such as 100 watts RMS, is a recipe for running a system on the ragged edge of its capabilities, especially with gear of mediocre quality, which is far and away the biggest selling area of quality. The tendency is to run that amp to its limits to get as much out of it as possible, to the point of the performance suffering drastically. While my example is a bit of overkill, it's just an example I happen to know of, and those cases are quite common. The fact is, the vast majority of people know very little about audio equipment and how it works, and are more concerned that their amp says "2000 WATTS" in huge letters on the heat sink than anything else about it.

 

Ill agree with you on that. Most people just think it's more about what you have. Not wether it sounds good, or is right.

 

Not to derail too much off topic here, what's the best size sub for a s'crew cabin? Because of the cabin volume, is it a waste to go with 12's or 15's?

 

It's too easy to make generalizations about questions like this. There is no one answer. With the cabin opened up, the length of the low frequency waves would come into play more. That's why you notice a big difference in bass response by rolling down windows or opening doors. So, in that case, the difference between a 10" and a 15" may be noticeable. Under "closed" cabin circumstances you may not be able to tell any difference. There's way too much involved in doing this properly to just say a 15" or a 12" is the best. You can be lazy and botch an installation and make the best sub sound like a frog fart.