Okay, before you start telling me what to get, I have the following already and will be installing it (underpowered or not):

- Kenwood DDX-7017 w/ DV4100 Navi
- Kenwood Satellite Module
- Kenwood IP500 Module w/ Antenna
- Infinity Kappa 6x8 Components (2ohm) Front
- Infinity Kappa 6x8 2-Way (2ohm) Rear
- JL Audio 6 Channel E6450
- Q-Logic 10" Custom (for SCAB)
- *** Subwoofer...need some help choosing it now!

Heres the specs of my amp:

# RMS 45WATTS x 6CH @ 4OHM / 12.5V
# RMS 75WATTS x 6CH @ 2OHM / 12.5V
# RMS 90WATTS x 3CH BRIDGED @ 8OHM / 12.5V
# RMS 150WATTS x 3CH BRIDGED @ 4OHM / 12.5V
# S/N RATIO : 104dB
# FREQUENCY RESPONSE : 10 ~ 25,000Hz
# DIFFERENTIAL NOISE CANCELLING INPUT
# ABSOLUTE SYMMETRY CIRCUIT CLASS AB
# ON BOARD CROSSOVER

Its a 6 Channel amp and Ill be using the first 4 Channels obviously for my Front Components and Rear 2-Ways @ 2 ohms. For the sub, how should I do this since I wont be running massive power to it? I can bridge the amp on the 5th and 6th channel...the question I guess is which of the two speakers below would work best?

I see two subs I like that will fit in the box and hopefully will be powered enough to produce decently clean bass. I know it might be under powered, but I dont mind as long as it make more bass than my 6x8's.

Sub Choices:

- Infinity Perfect 10.1 (4 ohm single voice coil)
# 10" 4-ohm subwoofer
# aluminum cone with high-roll butyl-rubber surround
# massive cast-aluminum basket
# suitable for free-air use (handles up to 175 watts in free-air applications)
# recommended power range: 75-350 watts RMS

or

- Infinity Perfect 10.1D (Dual 4 ohm voice coils)
# 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
# aluminum cone with high-roll butyl-rubber surround
# massive cast-aluminum basket
# dual 4-ohm voice coils
# suitable for free-air use (handles up to 175 watts in free-air applications)
# recommended power range 75-350 watts RMS (175 watts per coil)

HELP ME!!!!

 

With the specs listed, you need to go with the single 4 ohm coil. It will see 150 watts bridging channel 5 and 6, correct. If you go with the dual 4 ohm coil, you would have to wire each coil to its own channel, 90 watts total, or wire it is series, 90 watts total, or wire it parallel, which would be a 2 ohm load and not recommended bridged. 150 watts may not seem like a lot but, in the small space of a pickup, it will sound really good. I run 190 watts to my ED sub and it sounds awesome.

 

I agree with dconder in that 150 watts of legitimate power(which you will get from JLAudio) will be plenty in a truck cab. And just because the sub will handle 350 watts RMS does not mean that 150 watts is not enough for your taste. There seems to be this thinking that every piece of gear has to be run to the ragged edge of its limitations to work to its optimum. This is not true. Driving the sub with a true 350 watts will certainly give the potential for more loudness, but that's not necessarily a good thing in every case. You will have those who will disagree. They will be the ones who somehow believe a properly balanced system means that you can hear the bass from 6 blocks away, and the hell with the midbass, midrange, and high frequencies. The single voice coil sub is what you want to use on the bridged channels, as they are only rated to drive a 4 ohm set up in the bridged mode. A single sub with dual 4 ohm coils won't allow this set up. With the Kappas and a nice 10" sub, this system will sound REALLY good. Do not let anyone talk you into cutting any corners in your installation. If you are laying out the green for nice equipment like you have mentioned, install it properly AND after that, USE it properly. You will be glad you did. Almost all problems with equipment of the quality mentioned here will be caused by misuse or abuse or both, either knowingly or unknowingly. By that I mean that some people have such limited knowledge of equipment that they ruin it and don't even realize it, while others are just knuckleheads.