Hey Guys,

Well where to start? I have a 2000 Ford F-150 (duh) single cab. I want to install a S18X Kicker sub, but obviously have no cab space, i therefore want to cut throught the bed, and through the cab, and mount this sub in the bed. Does anyone know what type of box would i have to build? I want the sub to face the tailgate, so the sound would have to come out of the back of the sub box, into the "tunnel" that connects the bed with the cab, and into the cab. So please, if anyone knows anything about building boxes, I need to know the measurements of the box that I need for this sub, the type of the box Ported, vented, etc... the materials I need, and the size of the port/blowthrough that i need to cut in the bed and in the cab. Im going to have a hard tonaeu(?) cover, and im goint to cover alll of the bed with sound deadining material. I'm powering this baby with 3 JBL 1200.1.

All the help I can get is really appreciated

 

If I could find some specs on one Id make up some plans, but Ive searched everywhere and cant find jack on them. Plus the Kicker site isnt working for me (damn Flash sites).

Does your truck have a stepside or styleside bed?

Since your getting a 18 Solo X, Im assuming you want loud as he!! (its an SPL sub, why else would you get it lol) so your probably goin to wanna go ported (same as vented, or bass reflex)

MDF to make the box(medium density fiberboard). Or if you know how to use fiberglass, that might be something else to try. Id probably use 1 inch mdf, and ALOT of bracing or that box will more than likely flex like a ****.

The Kicker site is workin for me. After I get some specs Ill try to make up a few plans and post them back here.

 

ALRIGHTYY!!!!

I have one plan now, lol.

Box's outside dimensions are-20 inches tall, 40 inches wide, and 22.5 inches deep.
Using 1 inch MDF, this will give you 8.11 Cu. Ft.
Using a port that is 17.5x9 inches (157.5 sq. in.) and that is 9 5/8ths inches long will give you a tuning frequency of right around 35 Hz. After port displacement (.87 cu ft) and driver displacment (.13 cu ft.) you will have a final box volume of 7.11 cu. ft.
The WinISD graph wasnt the best when I punched it all it, but it will sure work.

This box is narrow enough to fit in a stepside box. However, with either bed, unless you just want a box sittin there, your might want to make some panels covered in vinyl or carpet or something to make it all flow and blend in with the bed.

I would have the port shooting out of the back of the box, and have a rubber boot type thing to connect the cab and bed. Then put the boot so the port is firing right at it, into the cab.

And right now I just remembered I forgot to factor in some bracing. Some 1 inch dowels or 1x1 inch peice of wood, about 4 running vertically (2 on each side of the sub) would probably work fine. Or something like that. And it wont affect box size or tuning freq. enough to have to refactor it.

Might want to check over all my math. Its been a long day. Im liable to have screwed something up.

Another thing to consider is it a 20 inch tall box will fit under your cover. Some covers bottom is flush with the top of the rails, which will work, but some covers, like my Undercover, sit down in the bed some, and I only have 18ish inches between the cover and floor.

 

Since you have a whole bed to work with , i would make the biggest possible ported box, and i guess the tuning is up to you, but just give it plenty of port area for more output. Like Bartak said use 1 in mdf, but i would make a 4 or 5 in baffle for the face of the box. That will secure the sub better and something about the depth of the cutout around the sub adds even slightly more ouput (it may be unnecessary but all the db draggers do it). Also, all of the blowthroughs i have seen have two ports connecting the box in the bed to the cab. Also, are those amps strappable? I dont know if you can strap 3 together (I doubt it), but that may be something to look into, since these subs can take alot of wattage.

 

Hey man thatnks a million. Couple more question though, what size should I make the port?

Oh, and also, the subwoofer will be aiming towards the tailgate? Could the subs bounce on plexiglass? If not, do they have could i aim them? Towards the cab? What I'm thinking is that you can see the subwoofer when i open the tonneau cover and the port to be behind the sub box.The kicker guys wrote to me and pretty much told me to open a 19" squared hole in both the bed wall AND that cabin. I was like what?!?! 19" is pretty much what I have! He also told me that the SOLOX doesn't work well in a bandpass design.

This is my truck...



This is what I want to have, except that with a SOLOX. Is this a bandpass box? if it is i dont think it'll work with the solox.



This is my drawing (lol)

 

*****, I totaly forgot about this tread. Sorry.

Anyway, port size depends on box size. But if you are just talking about how big the opening of the port is, you can make it whatever size you want, and then make it the proper length to tune the box to your desired frequency.

I would only make the hole in the cab a couple inches bigger than the port face on the box. The size of the rubber boot you put between the cab and bed will probably limit you before you can get as big as your port.

Yes, that box is a bandpass. It has a sealed chamber connected to a ported chamber with the sub inbetween

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/661517/2

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/661517

Maybe these pics can help you out some way. I know the box is different from yours, but in general its a blowthrough.