Don't make it hard on yourself, just mount one on each side and put grills to protect them.

 

The tutorial on JLAudio's website says to avoid series wiring between subs at all costs.

 

You're taking all the fun out of this Dupuis.

 

The question is why not?

They say to refer to the dvc faq but there is nothing that confirms their statement in that faq.

 

Hey, with as little extra time as I have, doing things easy but right is the only way I can things done.
That's just me.
By all means, go for it and enjoy.

 

Unfortunately for me .. up here in regions barren of any real technology base (moved up to Bismarck, ND marry my wife) .. I have plenty of time. And actually it isn't that hard to do. It's my understanding that a well made isobaric clamshell gives very good SQ and deeper bass. Admitedly it's only got the power of one of the subs .. but in a truck cab I don't think it will be noticable. Besides .. the hardest part about doing it is going to be figuring out if I want to seal it or vent it and if I vent it .. just how much of a vent I'll need.

And if I do it as a custom center console I get the room under the driverside passenger seat to use for my amp(s)

 

It's because of the voltage and current going to the subs. When wired in series, the voltage going to each sub is different enough to possibly cause a noticeable difference in performance between the subs, and thus SQ. When wired in parallel, each sub receives the same voltage.

 

Well it's been a long time since I started this thread and after an series of unfortunate events (hehe) I ended up putting this project off for a long time. As a matter of fact I ended up putting it off until a couple days ago.

You still around Dupuis? Anyway .. I built a box. I had my doubts about using Dupuis dimensions when I measured everything. The seat arangement may look the same when comparing the xcab with the screw cab but the depth just isn't there. But I built it using the same dimensions .. then I took it all apart and adjusted the pieces. My dimensions ended up being about an inch lower in height and about 3/4 of an inch less in depth (all the way around) under the seat.

I decided to try something novel and took the middle seat out of the front and designed to box to thread through the base and the arm console there. That gives me a bit of extra air space by using a "center console" in the back. Enough to give me a total of 1.35 ft^3 of air space (before displacement of the subs). Kicker says that these subs are not designed for a ported design what-so-ever so I will be making this a sealed box.

I will be mounting the amps in forward "center console" area (between the seats and just foward of that).

I ended up using particle board instead of MDF, like I wanted. The local lumber/hardware/home improvement stores only stock 3/4" mdf in 4x8 sheets which I thought was more than I needed. 4x4 particle board (5/8) sheets were readily available though.

I am running into a problem with part of my design though .. has anyone ever dealth with creating a "curved" box? where the console threads through to the front I have the sides of the box curved to allow the arm rest/storage console to rotate while keeping everythign looking nice.

I am also debating on whether I should put the subs in the center console facing out or under the 60% seat facing down (using that 1.75 inch leg on the left side to keep the box off the floor). In the center console gives them plenty of room. Putting them in the 60% seat area gives very little, if any, clearance to the top of the box.

I wont be getting anything done today as it's the Father-in-laws birthday so we're heading out in a bit .. so hopefully you guys can give me your own opinions about this configuration before I continue on with it.

Catch ya later

(I'll take pics of the project and post them later so folx can get a visual on what I've been doing with this).

Seawolfe