speaker size
Raven R3's
Hey DEUS and cgorris,
Imagine... I was nervous enough working around my puny *** 6.5 Focals during the install. Can you imagine a DIY'er's drill slipping and dinging one of those babies. Hats off to the Prof. Installers who handle the high end sh*&%t. Must be nerve wracking. Hard to RMA something with a f*$#@cking hole drilled in the side of it !
Ricksta
Imagine... I was nervous enough working around my puny *** 6.5 Focals during the install. Can you imagine a DIY'er's drill slipping and dinging one of those babies. Hats off to the Prof. Installers who handle the high end sh*&%t. Must be nerve wracking. Hard to RMA something with a f*$#@cking hole drilled in the side of it !
Ricksta
I can understand that feeling. Roughly 12 years of installing and that thought still gives me the heebeegeebees. However, I have to say that you can count on one hand the number of speakers that I accidentally punched in all my years. I take extra caution with that side of it. At least at the shops I worked at I had a cool boss that would just mark it down and sell it as a dent and ding item. Had one shop that would make you buy the speaker if you damaged it. Fortunately it was at dealer cost but I still liked the dent and ding idea better.
Deus,
That is the very setup I am using now. I have the Kicker UMB-8 8" Resolutions in the doors and the BG planar ribbons in the kicks. About the best thing I could tell you would be to get a pair and play with them. Once you get the positioned where you think they image best I would build an enclosure and stuff it with fiber-fill or fiberglass or open-cell foam to absorb as much of the rear wave as possible. They have a fairly good off-axis response so I have not noticed that to be a problem. With a little help from the time alignment on the PXA-H700 I have managed to get them to stage as close to perfect as you could expect to obtain in a car. The depth of image I feel is far superior to any cone available and the tonality is also superb. Transient response is extremely tight with little to no smearing between frequencies. If you can build things from fiberglass and bondo I suggest you give them a try. I personally would prefer my 8" midbass in the floorpan firing up but maybe that is a project for after the truck is paid for. If you want any other info let me know or if you are ever in the Atlanta area and would like to hear them, let me know and I will be glad to let you listen
That is the very setup I am using now. I have the Kicker UMB-8 8" Resolutions in the doors and the BG planar ribbons in the kicks. About the best thing I could tell you would be to get a pair and play with them. Once you get the positioned where you think they image best I would build an enclosure and stuff it with fiber-fill or fiberglass or open-cell foam to absorb as much of the rear wave as possible. They have a fairly good off-axis response so I have not noticed that to be a problem. With a little help from the time alignment on the PXA-H700 I have managed to get them to stage as close to perfect as you could expect to obtain in a car. The depth of image I feel is far superior to any cone available and the tonality is also superb. Transient response is extremely tight with little to no smearing between frequencies. If you can build things from fiberglass and bondo I suggest you give them a try. I personally would prefer my 8" midbass in the floorpan firing up but maybe that is a project for after the truck is paid for. If you want any other info let me know or if you are ever in the Atlanta area and would like to hear them, let me know and I will be glad to let you listen


