Make my own sub box?
Make my own sub box?
Im considering upgrading my audio system, and Im on a really tight budget. I've searched a bit here, and noticed that there are a few places you can buy premade boxes...but they cost usually $120+, which I feel I could spend elsewhere.
So how hard is it to build a custom box? What kind of materials would I need?
Also, are there certain ways the box needs to be shaped?
I have a '97 supercab, and noticed alot of people have to lift the seats...are there any kits for this that have brackets and any hardware needed premade? Is it possible to put a sub in there without lifting?
I think Im going with a single (or maybe 2...) 10" RF Punch Z subs, no idea on what amp yet.
Thanks for any help...
So how hard is it to build a custom box? What kind of materials would I need?
Also, are there certain ways the box needs to be shaped?
I have a '97 supercab, and noticed alot of people have to lift the seats...are there any kits for this that have brackets and any hardware needed premade? Is it possible to put a sub in there without lifting?
I think Im going with a single (or maybe 2...) 10" RF Punch Z subs, no idea on what amp yet.
Thanks for any help...
Johngs, If you are handy with some basic tools, you can build a box. I have the same truck. '97 F250 Light Duty(same as F150). If you raise the seat you will have many more options, but your seat will not flip forward. So, if you need that and don't raise the seat, your options are fewer, but it's still possible. You will have to closely watch the mounting depth of the subs. If you are a beginner, and want to build your own box, I would suggest a basic sealed box for the passenger side of about .5 cu./ft. with an appropriate 8" or 10". Remember, the size of the box must be matched to the sub. Make nice straight, square cuts, and seal the box tightly. It's time consuming, but it's much cheaper. Custom work costs about $50/hour. If you don't need the driver's side for your amp, you could build 2 identical boxes and use 2 subs. If you raise the seat, you could build a bigger box, and have more choices of subs. Raising the seat is very easy. On a tight budget you could use some wood blocks under the seat brackets(painted to match), and use some longer bolts. Nothing to it.
Folding the seat is not really necessary, my only concern is that it will support a full load of 3-4 people in the seat.
What kind of wood do I use for the box?
When the subs list the volume needed, is that inside volume? I assume so...but just checking.
The sub I plan on buying is the Rockford Fosgate Punch Z 10", crutchfield lists the specs as:
Top Mount Depth: 4 3/4"
Sealed Box volume: .375-1.75 cu. ft
Ported volume: .75-1.75 cu. ft
So Im guessing for best results the box would have about 5.5" of inside depth at least? And what do you think the optimal volume would be? Other than that I could figure out the rest of the measurements...
Also, could you send me some pics of the seat lift you did?
Thanks alot.
What kind of wood do I use for the box?
When the subs list the volume needed, is that inside volume? I assume so...but just checking.
The sub I plan on buying is the Rockford Fosgate Punch Z 10", crutchfield lists the specs as:
Top Mount Depth: 4 3/4"
Sealed Box volume: .375-1.75 cu. ft
Ported volume: .75-1.75 cu. ft
So Im guessing for best results the box would have about 5.5" of inside depth at least? And what do you think the optimal volume would be? Other than that I could figure out the rest of the measurements...
Also, could you send me some pics of the seat lift you did?
Thanks alot.
Folding the seat is not really necessary, my only concern is that it will support a full load of 3-4 people in the seat.
What kind of wood do I use for the box?
<> Use MDF of at least 5/8" thick. I personally use 3/4" but 5/8 will give you more internal volume for what you're doing.
When the subs list the volume needed, is that inside volume? I assume so...but just checking.
<> Yes, internal volume that the woofer sees.
The sub I plan on buying is the Rockford Fosgate Punch Z 10", crutchfield lists the specs as:
Top Mount Depth: 4 3/4"
Sealed Box volume: .375-1.75 cu. ft
Ported volume: .75-1.75 cu. ft
So Im guessing for best results the box would have about 5.5" of inside depth at least? And what do you think the optimal volume would be? Other than that I could figure out the rest of the measurements...
<> Most woofers need some room beyond the magnet for cooling and 3/4" should be fine. I'd go for the sealed design just for easy of building and size limitations. As for volume aim towards the middle of the range but err to the larger side. For that woofer I'd shoot for between 1cu ft and 1.2ish. The larger you go the deeper the bass. Personally I'd shoot for that 1-1.2 range and use some poly-fill. No reason to use more space in your truck than you have to.
Kevin
What kind of wood do I use for the box?
<> Use MDF of at least 5/8" thick. I personally use 3/4" but 5/8 will give you more internal volume for what you're doing.
When the subs list the volume needed, is that inside volume? I assume so...but just checking.
<> Yes, internal volume that the woofer sees.
The sub I plan on buying is the Rockford Fosgate Punch Z 10", crutchfield lists the specs as:
Top Mount Depth: 4 3/4"
Sealed Box volume: .375-1.75 cu. ft
Ported volume: .75-1.75 cu. ft
So Im guessing for best results the box would have about 5.5" of inside depth at least? And what do you think the optimal volume would be? Other than that I could figure out the rest of the measurements...
<> Most woofers need some room beyond the magnet for cooling and 3/4" should be fine. I'd go for the sealed design just for easy of building and size limitations. As for volume aim towards the middle of the range but err to the larger side. For that woofer I'd shoot for between 1cu ft and 1.2ish. The larger you go the deeper the bass. Personally I'd shoot for that 1-1.2 range and use some poly-fill. No reason to use more space in your truck than you have to.
Kevin
Thanks.
Just a few more questions:
I had planned on using like you suggested, 1.0 - 1.25 cu.ft or somewhere in that range.
When building the box, is there a certain way to apply caulk/sealer? Is it best to just apply it to the edge, and then place the side and screw it together?
Or should I build all but one side and seal the inside edges? In that case how do I seal the final edge?
Also, is it ok if the box is not exactly square? Im thinking of making the main portion under the one side, then having a smaller part go into the middle of the seat, because it looks like there is not enough room to just put it under the side of the seat.
I hope this makes sense.
How much does polyfill cost? Where can I get it? How do I put it in the box?
Thanks.
Just a few more questions:
I had planned on using like you suggested, 1.0 - 1.25 cu.ft or somewhere in that range.
When building the box, is there a certain way to apply caulk/sealer? Is it best to just apply it to the edge, and then place the side and screw it together?
Or should I build all but one side and seal the inside edges? In that case how do I seal the final edge?
Also, is it ok if the box is not exactly square? Im thinking of making the main portion under the one side, then having a smaller part go into the middle of the seat, because it looks like there is not enough room to just put it under the side of the seat.
I hope this makes sense.
How much does polyfill cost? Where can I get it? How do I put it in the box?
Thanks.
I just went out with the tape measure and I came up with some approximate measurements.

Which, if my calculations are correct, only gets me about .625 cu.ft.
So it looks like a seat rise might be necessary. I looked at the way the seat bolts up, and it looks like I could just get a 2x4, drill some holes (give the seat ~3" lift), put some grey carpet around it, and some longer bolts, and do that, dont think it would look too bad, and would get me some extra volume (about 1.11 cu. ft. after lift if my calculations are right).
thoughts?
edit: I just remembered I did not calculate the thickness of the material so my volume is probably closer to 1 cu.ft or less.

Which, if my calculations are correct, only gets me about .625 cu.ft.
So it looks like a seat rise might be necessary. I looked at the way the seat bolts up, and it looks like I could just get a 2x4, drill some holes (give the seat ~3" lift), put some grey carpet around it, and some longer bolts, and do that, dont think it would look too bad, and would get me some extra volume (about 1.11 cu. ft. after lift if my calculations are right).
thoughts?
edit: I just remembered I did not calculate the thickness of the material so my volume is probably closer to 1 cu.ft or less.
Last edited by Johngs; Oct 29, 2003 at 06:08 PM.
I made my own box, but am thinking of redoing it.... I am considering moving the amp under one of the front seats and making the box bigger and down firing.
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Thanks.
From what I have read, down firing should be louder, but not sure I want to spend the time to find out. Also, polyfill is used to make the sub think the box is bigger. Not sure how well it works though.
Let us know what you decide and how is turns out.
From what I have read, down firing should be louder, but not sure I want to spend the time to find out. Also, polyfill is used to make the sub think the box is bigger. Not sure how well it works though.
Let us know what you decide and how is turns out.
Its going to be a while yet :\
I just bought a new head unit and that soaked up most of my money. That should be arriving here monday, and I should have it installed monday evening or tuesday
Im still not sure if I want to upgrade speakers or sub/amp after that.
I just bought a new head unit and that soaked up most of my money. That should be arriving here monday, and I should have it installed monday evening or tuesday

Im still not sure if I want to upgrade speakers or sub/amp after that.
polyfill
Polyfill is super cheap - a big bag should be $2 or so. You can get it at most fabric stores, as I believe it's what is used to stuff pillows.
I had never done it before, but with the help of some woodwork-handy friends I made a sub box for the back of my 911. Start with a rectangle, squish it backwards so it becomes a trapezoid, and then cut wedges off of the bottom so they rise up. Very complicated shape. I'm sure that there are better sounding boxes, but it works, and it was a good way to spend the weekend.
I put caulking both along the edges and along the seam from the inside, except for the top, where I just did the edges.
Good luck,
Chris
I had never done it before, but with the help of some woodwork-handy friends I made a sub box for the back of my 911. Start with a rectangle, squish it backwards so it becomes a trapezoid, and then cut wedges off of the bottom so they rise up. Very complicated shape. I'm sure that there are better sounding boxes, but it works, and it was a good way to spend the weekend.
I put caulking both along the edges and along the seam from the inside, except for the top, where I just did the edges.
Good luck,
Chris


