Calling all power steering know-it-alls.
Calling all power steering know-it-alls.
So I've been struggling with a wandering and darting feeling in my power steering on my 97 f150. I didn't want to admit it to anyone because I thought I could narrow it down but.....
After replacing my idler and pitman, checking all my links and joints, adjusting the steering box, four wheel alinement, and a whole slew of other ****, I still had a really ****ty steering feeling. Even the steering wheel won't sit straight, it's like turned to one side when your just going straight.
Then today I blew the pressure hose that leads from the pump to the steering box. I lost most of the power assist because the hose leaks, but right after the hose blew, the steering wheel returned to a centered position and now my truck steers like a Cadillac, No more darting or wandering, just straight as an arrow right on down the road.
What the f#%!? Is there something wrong with the pump? Has anyone had this problem before? Help a brother out.
After replacing my idler and pitman, checking all my links and joints, adjusting the steering box, four wheel alinement, and a whole slew of other ****, I still had a really ****ty steering feeling. Even the steering wheel won't sit straight, it's like turned to one side when your just going straight.
Then today I blew the pressure hose that leads from the pump to the steering box. I lost most of the power assist because the hose leaks, but right after the hose blew, the steering wheel returned to a centered position and now my truck steers like a Cadillac, No more darting or wandering, just straight as an arrow right on down the road.
What the f#%!? Is there something wrong with the pump? Has anyone had this problem before? Help a brother out.
azr101 are you saying your truck steers better with no power assist or did you repair the hose and it still steers better? I have had the same problem on my 01 Screw. Iv'e replaced the whole front suspension including all bushings and the lower steering shaft. I still haven't eleminated the problem.
Steering
The hose is blown, and although the steering is very heavy without the power assist, it does not wander or dart anymore.
I'm replacing the pump and the hose, and I'll see if it makes any difference.
I'm replacing the pump and the hose, and I'll see if it makes any difference.
Let us know if it gets any better. I also have an '01 SCrew (4x4) that steers straight only on flat roads with no bumps on a calm day. I've had it aligned and had the tie-rods checked out (they're good). I haven't done anything with the pitman or idler arms yet, but there doesn't seem to be any slop in the system...kinda been wondering about that steering box or the pump.
If I don't find the problem soon I'm getting rid of it; it's no fun to drive.
If I don't find the problem soon I'm getting rid of it; it's no fun to drive.
You may have a pressure relief valve problem. I would also get the thing on a lift and check again for worn ball joints and worn bearings in the hubs. Try rotating your tires, if front to back doesn't work, cross 'em. The position of the steering wheel can be returned during an alignment. VERY odd that yours recentered itself after losing the P.S.--unless of course the pressure valve is screwing up. That can cause the wheel to feel like it's steering further than you want it to.
SL
SL
This sounds a lot like what I'm experiencing with mine. Is the pressure relief valve in the pump itself, or elsewhere? I have suspected something with the pump or the steering box because of a noise it often makes when I'm steering (almost sounds like air in the lines). It's the same noise you normally get when you turn the wheels all the way to the stops (left or right), except mine will do it often with any steering, not just going all the way to the stops. Fluid level is correct.
From the sound of things, this may be what all three of us are looking for. If this ends up fixing my problem, I owe you a cold one!
From the sound of things, this may be what all three of us are looking for. If this ends up fixing my problem, I owe you a cold one!
P.R. valve
Not sure about the newer trucks. They used to be incorporated in the fitting screwed to the rear of the pump housing(The receptacle for the high pressure hose) I'll get ahold of a guy I know that works for Ford and see if he can fax me a pic of its location.
SL
SL
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steering
Well I replaced the ps pump and it seems to still be driving good, however it's whining now like there is still air in the lines. I'm going to bleed again and then will report the results.
Thanks Guys.
Thanks Guys.
thanks for the update
Thanks for keeping us updated. I plan to look at the relief valve this weekend on mine. I hope my problem can be fixed in the same way, as I'd rather not have to mess with the steering box.
Hope yours continues to drive well.
Hope yours continues to drive well.
steering
Steering still seems to be working great, replacing the pump seems to have made quite a difference, although I have no clue why.
One thing however, I have bled the system repeatedly, but it still makes that annoying whine, I just can't seem to get rid of it.
Any special tricks to bleeding? Or will, switching to synthetic fluid quiet things down?
One thing however, I have bled the system repeatedly, but it still makes that annoying whine, I just can't seem to get rid of it.
Any special tricks to bleeding? Or will, switching to synthetic fluid quiet things down?
PRV update
OK, I talked to my guy at Ford, and he could not find ANY valve in the P.S. system as a separately listed part. He's going to see if a TSB exists on noisy P.S. , and get back to me.
As far as bleeding goes, I recently read, but can't find, a post on proper bleeding of these pumps. As memory goes, you get your truck up on jackstands, turn the wheel all the way to the right and turn the pump by hand until bubbles stop coming through. Take that with a grain of salt.
I am going to contact Cardone's tech line and see what they have to say about the valve, and bleeding.
SL
As far as bleeding goes, I recently read, but can't find, a post on proper bleeding of these pumps. As memory goes, you get your truck up on jackstands, turn the wheel all the way to the right and turn the pump by hand until bubbles stop coming through. Take that with a grain of salt.
I am going to contact Cardone's tech line and see what they have to say about the valve, and bleeding.
SL
tighten and bleed
Let's try this again.
OK, the pressure valve IS built into the fitting at the back of the pump. Ford does not sell it separately, you have to buy the pump.
According to the tech. dept. at Cardone, you need to put the P.S. system into a vacuum to bleed the air out of it. Two ways of doing it:
1) Get an old/replacement cap, drill a hole in it, and either stick a hose through the hole**DO NOT LET THE HOSE REACH THE FLUID**.
2)Install a fitting in the cap and attach a hose to the fitting.
Using a handheld vacuum pump, or an A/C vacuum pump (my preference), put the system under vacuum and start the vehicle. Turn the steering wheel back and forth 4 or 5 times. Do not hold pressure on the wheel once you reach the end of travel. Cardone says:"You can jack the vehicle up, but it's not necessary". I personally would have it up on stands. The less drag the better while performing this repair. This should take care of the air, if not, try the same thing, but increase the number of times you go back and forth.
I was told to make sure EVERY fluid connection was torqued to spec. The tech guy claimed that these fittings can be tightened enough to prevent fluid loss, BUT can still suck air in, if not tight enough(to spec.) I'd never heard this before, but then again, before I came to this site, I had never heard of squeaking pitman arms, clunking transmissions, cruise control fires, etc.
SL
OK, the pressure valve IS built into the fitting at the back of the pump. Ford does not sell it separately, you have to buy the pump.
According to the tech. dept. at Cardone, you need to put the P.S. system into a vacuum to bleed the air out of it. Two ways of doing it:
1) Get an old/replacement cap, drill a hole in it, and either stick a hose through the hole**DO NOT LET THE HOSE REACH THE FLUID**.
2)Install a fitting in the cap and attach a hose to the fitting.
Using a handheld vacuum pump, or an A/C vacuum pump (my preference), put the system under vacuum and start the vehicle. Turn the steering wheel back and forth 4 or 5 times. Do not hold pressure on the wheel once you reach the end of travel. Cardone says:"You can jack the vehicle up, but it's not necessary". I personally would have it up on stands. The less drag the better while performing this repair. This should take care of the air, if not, try the same thing, but increase the number of times you go back and forth.
I was told to make sure EVERY fluid connection was torqued to spec. The tech guy claimed that these fittings can be tightened enough to prevent fluid loss, BUT can still suck air in, if not tight enough(to spec.) I'd never heard this before, but then again, before I came to this site, I had never heard of squeaking pitman arms, clunking transmissions, cruise control fires, etc.
SL
Last edited by snappylips; Mar 30, 2005 at 02:31 AM.


