Tried it one more time.... Got this... 668 [8] Transmission range (TR) sensor -above maximum voltage Wiring open circuit/short circuit to positive, TR sensor, ECM

 

The transmission range sensor also acts as the neutral safety switch. Does that help you find it and chase the wiring? Here's what it is:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearc...artnum=sw-5977

If it is in fact a bad OD button, Rockauto.com has a replacement kit for $7.21. Dorman P/N 49299.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearc...&partnum=49299

What you could do is disconnect the battery to clear all the codes, then see which ones come back.

 

Do you think a bad OD button would cause all this? It would just kick out of OD and take multiple tries, sometimes over days to have OD back, now it doesnt come back at all... its was intermittent for some time... Doesnt sound like a pressure switch to me,.... I inspected the neutral safety switch and the speed sensor for damage or corrosion and they both appear to be fine.... I have no idea how to test either with an ohm/volt meter...I was contemplating simply replacing both, especially the Neutral safety switch/range sensor.... About $40 to $50 for the sensor, $15 for the speed sensor... And that switch? that's a drop in the bucket... I haven't cycled the battery to clear the codes but was planning to tomorrow morning to see what pops up... Start the beast and run it up to 2k RPM then review the codes again... Once i hit that 600 series code I didn't bother to go no further till I looked it up... I was looking at that neutral switch before thinking it may be the culprit... Cheapest trial and error step is the OD switch I suppose. cant pick one up at Advance I'm guessing... Just finally fixed the front tank now this thing pops back up after months of quiet, this time with a vengeance... it never ends...
Im thinking;
1. clear the codes and re-read....
2. same code and no others? Replace the OD switch
3. no change, replace the range/nuetral sensor then speed sensor possibly...

Keeping it under a $75 and not pulling the pan would be ideal... cheaper the better...

 

What is making you think there may be a problem with the speed sensor?

 

I was reading something that mentioned the possibility.... Im more focused on the neutral switch.... I disconnected the Batt, then tested without a start, then with a start, then running down the road a couple miles... Each time I was unable to recreate that 600 series code.... I got 556, 558, 565, then repeated a second time.... Then following the three digit codes, I got a string of single digits with a pause between each.... 1,3,3,2,3,3,2???? What the heck are they? Didnt get that before... It did clean out all those bogus codes... man? i had a whole string of them.... Just the three 500 series now repeated a second time then these single codes... Im still gonna replace that OD button, then the range sensor next.... I'm suspecting that range sensor as I got a code directly pointing to it. OD is still illuminated and attempted several times to turn it on to no avail... Dam I miss the days when I could afford new vehicles under warranty... used to have a career.... Bout to take a 8 lb sledge to that dam thing... I think those 500 series codes are air intake... need to look them up and find out what those single digit codes are... Longer pause between each of those and add up to an odd number???

 

I think that string of single numbers are 332, and 332 again after reviewing the three digit codes... I wonder if my #2 relay is bad... fuel pump... Both work??? I just replaced the pump in the front tank and repaired the float. hadn't worked in years before me... The inside of the tank was nasty... Aint worried about the... I want this dam transmission to go into OD... None of these 500 and 300 series codes could possibly creating this OD issue could they? They had to go and complicate things with all this electronic crap dependent on other stuff??/