WOW great to hear all the success stories!

I too am SUPER HAPPY with the way mine works now back to 100% cold air coming from where i want it to.

When i did mine i had som extra time so it took really detailed step-by-step pics a little more than the OP put up so if anyone has interest i can try and find some time to get the up here......just lmk if not the OP pics do just fine if you're at all mechanically inclined

THANKS ONCE AGAIN you helped out a lot of people!

 

Devilsrighthand, you are the bomb! And thanks, tampc for the pictures. I have been living with getting A/C out of the vents by selecting Vent/Floor. Well, it just crapped out.This has been one of the most easiest and rewarding fixes I believe I've ever had in my 35 years of working on (my own) vehicles. I think I had the entire R&R within 45 mins. As I was re-installing the unit, I thought, noway could it have been this easy...it was! Not that I have special skills, but after working on Shuttle components for a living, I've learned to follow written instructions. "Devil", those were spot on! I didn't check the entire thread, but I may be the have the lowest amount spent: $.85 on 4 o-rings from ACE Hardware. The only thing that I may add is forget about the home improvement giants. They don't carry the size needed here. ACE's size is, (it may be a standard) #007. Thanks again for a huge savings fro the Ford dealer!

 

Thanks for the instructions. Did the rebuild yesterday and it works like a charm. I had been without floor heat in my truck for 2 years which is difficult in the canadian winter.

Thanks
again.

 

after using my heater this weekend, it got stuck coming out of the defrost vents and I can't get it to stop even in the off position. I also can't get the temperature to change, it is blowing at 90 degrees. I had to drive 9 hours to get back home in this condition, the entire dash was burning hot from the heater blowing so long.

Don't know much about this electronic climate control and have been reading a lot only to be more confused (blender doors, actuators, eatc rebuilds, etc.)

This is an 03' King ranch SC with the electronic climate control

I can't drive in South Florida with this heater blowing, at the very least I need to get it shut off ASAP.

 

The eatc rebuild done when you can't get the climate system to change from defrost, to panel or floor etc.

With you temp stuck at 90 I am would think that is electronic.

Perhaps disconnecting the battery to reset the system might work?

 

where do I get the instructions for rebuilding my EATC...stuck on defrost full time...help. I see the many posts on guys that were successful but where can I find the detailed instructions?

Joe C.

 

read the 1st page the instruction there go to 2nd page you will the picture....

good luck

 

WOW....been living with this crap for two years and seen all the ads on ebay to rebuild mine for $125 but couldn't find any to just buy and replace. googled how to repair these and came across this thread. Spent $2.00 on o-rings and within 30 minutes was up and running. problem solved. THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for this forum. have joined and am now a lifetime member and will support the vendors here as well. As stated above.....Devilsrighthand, you are the bomb!

 

Great thread. Too bad I didn't see this prior to starting my o-ring change over the weekend (found another thread similar). At any rate, I changed all my o-rings. It helped in the sense that it got air to blow out the main vents again. Before it wouldn't even come out of main anymore.

However it once again goes back to defrost vents anytime I accelerate. I let off the gas and the main vents come back on after a pause. Again the difference after o-ring change is that the main vents somewhat work again. It exhibited this problem months ago then eventually just stopped coming out of main vents altogether (unless I put it to panel/floor...but that also started to get iffy).

Any other ideas what may be the cause or other ways for me to check?

Thanks much!

 

I think you need to check where all the hose at behind the EATC (look at picture on page 2) it held on with 2 nuts, it maybe not good fit and you lose Vacuum, that is my 2cent Good luck.

 

THANKS ALOT!!!!!!!! I did this this morning and it works fantastically. I didn't have anything except "default"(lol) I now have everything except FLR, but i can deal with that since everything else works, plus i hardly use it anyway in any of my cars. I had to "rebuild" it twice cause I dumped the plunger and couldn't figure out which way it went. For future reference, if anybody else does it, the solid end of the plunger goes in first leaving the end with the little hole on top. Once again thanks a million that saves all of us a CRAP TON of money and its simple!!! Someone needs to make this a sticky


BTW i do believe i won the price contest! I got the o-rings for FREE at my work lol. just had to throw that in there

 

Yeah the whole hose assembly (all connected via that rubber like assembly) has a good fit to the EATC. Does anyone know how I can check each individual hose? Or I heard about vacuum leaks. How do i check for that?

Thanks!

 

bringing this back up. I haven't tried this yet on my truck as I have a friend that mentioned to try and reset the unit and it may possibly fix my problem.

Mine is only in MAX AC does it go to defrost. Everything else works as normal, even VENT.




On a side note, I bought a bag of 100 of the 007 o-rings from Grainger for $2.39. If anyone needs (4), they can send me a self addressed stamped envelope and I'll mail them back 4 free of charge. PM me for my mailing address.

 

2003 KR SCrew, over 100K mi. I invested $2.50 and 90 minutes of time (1/3 of which was reading and interpretting the directions) to get this job done. My hat is off to you! As a retiree, looking at a potential thousand dollar fix was not an option. Your directions are easy to follow, specific, and complete. I have no issues with your work. Thank you very much.

Just for your info, I smeared a small amount of Dow Corning Silicon Dielectric Matching Compound-4 on the O-rings and Vacuum Manifold tubes. This was to ensure a good seal. One of the old O-rings broke when being removed. They all felt kind of hard, not very pliable, and had significant flats on the outside surfaces. The replacement O-rings were 5/16" OD X 1/16" Thk. With the silicon compound, they slipped into their respective berths with slightly more force than it took to get the old ones out.

 

Cost to repair at garage $850.00... Part from FORD dealer $650.00... Parts from ACE Hardware 0.98 cents....Priceless, Thanks. live in Florida can't live with out A/C.. Followed directions, worked like a champ