99fword

Thanks for the explanation! I know it took a while to type all that, but I read every word. It was very easy to follow and you didn't assume anyone new what you were talking about. This F150online site is the finest I've ever seen....... I've learned so much and with members like yourself providing expert detailed descriptions the rest of us will be a whole lot better off.

THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!


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Joel.......
99.5 White Lightning, all the required options.
Superchip is in the mail!!

 

Hey Mr. Key Man.....

I have a PAtS 2 key I think. My new 99 Lightning was recently totalled. Can I reprogram the keys from this vehicle to work with the new vehicle I am replaceing it with?

[This message has been edited by Twisted99 (edited 08-04-1999).]

 

Twisted99,

Think about it! Are you going to change the tumblers in the lock on the new truck so you can use the old keys and then buy a backup set for the old keys since the new one will no longer work? Naw, just spend the $20 for a new spare.


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'99 WHITE F150 XLT FlareSide SC 4.2 Auto 3.55, Superchip,
Black Westin Nerfs, White Prime Design BugShield,
White Vtech Taillight Covers, White Vtech Sidewinders,
'99 White Styleside Body Side Molding, K&N Air Filter
LOTTA SHOW and SOME GO

 

Twisted99,
To answer your question, yes. But as rmarietta pointed out the locks on the two vehicles are most likely coded differently. If by some chance the cuts on the new keys are the same depth or deeper than the corresponding cuts on the old keys you could have the new cuts transfered to the old key and program them yourself. Keep in mind if just one of the cuts on the old keys is deeper than the corresponding cut on the new keys it won't work. It's worth a shot though. If it's too difficult to tell by putting the keys side by side and eyeballing them yourself (and it can be if you don't do it every day) take it to a *good* locksmith and tell him or her what you're trying to accomplish. They should be able to tell you in a few seconds. If it's a go, great! They can transfer the cuts (I would charge about $2) and you can do the programming yourself as I discribed earlier. If not, you just wasted a trip to the locksmith. Don't get your hopes up though. The odds are not in your favor. This is the only cost effective way to get your old keys to work in the new vehicle. I wouldn't even think about rekeying your new locks just to get the old keys to work. And yes, it is P.A.T.S. 2. *All* F-150's that incorperate the transponder technology are P.A.T.S. 2. But for the record, all Ford 8 cut transponder keys are capable of being programmed into either the P.A.T.S. 1 or 2 systems. There is no difference in the keys (as far as programming goes). The difference is in the vehicle's computer. Like I said it's worth a shot. The worst that can happen is you waste some time. At best it can save you between $18 and $30 per key. Lots of luck!

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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, Airaid, 80/100w German head lamps. Needs one more door and a lot more power. I think I need to talk to Mr. Whipple.

 

When we arrived here in Las Vegas it was a relatively cool day for July (108 degrees). My wife and I were out househunting and made a quick pit stop to where we were staying to pick something up. My wife didn't want to get out of the truck because of the heat so I ran inside. A minute later she decided that she needed something else and she was inside with me, leaving the truck running to keep the A/C going and the truck cool. When I saw her I questioned if the truck was locked she replied "naturally, you don't want it stolen". Then I had to find out that her key was in her pocketbook, and yes, her pocketbook was in the truck "naturally because we we're going back out, what's your problem?".

The good part was that a call to the complimentary FORD Motor Club that I received when I purchased my truck resulted in a locksmith there in about 30 minutes to open my truck free of charge. He tried a Slim Jim, then went through quite a few keys, then a Slim Jim again before he got it opened. And yes, the truck was quite cool and comfortable at that point. The locksmith warned me at that time that the keys run about $75.00 to be made if lost, something I didn't know when I bought the truck.

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99 F250XLT Supercab LD
5.4L 3.73 LS
White/Silver
Graphite interior
6 CD changer/Captain's Chairs

 

Also if you have remote locking key fob, it will not work with the truck running!

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1999 F150 Lariat
Reg cab Short box Styleside
5.4L 3.55ls
Deep Wedgwood Blue/Silver
Lund Interceptor hood shield, VentVisors, Class III hitch, Ford molded mud guards, soft tonneau, factory CD with changer (thanks Dusty), tinted windows

Menasha, WI

http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...ton54home.html

 

Every ford key is unique, with a serial number in the chip inside the key head. you have to program the computer to read the key number, not program the key so to speak. Each computer can store 10 different key serial numbers and in order for you to program the keys, you must register the master, then your spare, then your next spare...something like that. The key itself is not programmed, its the computer inside the engine block which is. The key is not simply a resistor, those are in GM cars, our keys send out a serial number, practially impossible to fool with a foreign key which is why if you lose those keys, you have to get towed to a ford dealer. You'll be happy you have this system when a thief can't drive away with your baby!

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David
'99 F150 XLT SC, STYLESIDE
4X4 ORP 5.4L, AUTOMATIC,
139wb, Rhino, K&N,
BugGuard, RainGuards
Superchip

 

98fword, thanks for taking the time to post that reply. Lotta typing, but we've all benefitted, and appreciate it.
Now - would someone address the problems this causes for fleets? Our cops are having just a wonderful time trying to keep all the keys straight, as each officer normally (at least, in the past) carried at least two keys. And all cars were keyed alike...
I believe this involves the law of unintended consequences.

 

If you have two keys already take the first encoded key and turn it to run for 3 seconds, do the same with the second, then with the unprogrammed key you turn it to run and it will start the vehicle. Also, if you have one encoded key and you don't want to worry about encoded keys you can install the encoded key permanently, never needing expensive keys again. Remove the lower steering column shroud and zip tie the encoded key as close as possible to the key cylinder. The computer will "always" see the chip and therefore you can use "regular" cheap keys. Keep in mind, this does away with the P.A.T.S. system. (It will also allow you to be able to use a remote starter.)

 

Sluggo54,
If your vehicles have the P.A.T.S. 1 system you can actually have it turned off. You'll most likely need to have it done at the dealer or a locksmith that has a Genstar programing devise. That way, all of your keys will work in all of your cars. That's assuming the cars are all keyed alike. The P.A.T.S. 2 and later systems can *not* be turned off. If you choose to go with "Sycoholic's" method, I suggest you cut the shank of the key off (the part that actually enters the lock) with some side cutter pliers or simular tool. Being carefull not to damage the head of the key containing the transponder. You're just getting rid of the key cuts. If someone happens to find it they won't be able to drive off with your car.

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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, Airaid, 80/100w German head lamps. Needs one more door and a lot more power. I think I need to talk to Mr. Whipple.

 

I had an extra securilock key made when I picked up my truck last night, in addition to the 2 that were provided. They only charged me $24.00..so I guess after reading an earlier post..that this price was not bad. It only took them 5 minutes and the spare key was ready. I made sure to check all of the keys before I left and the spare works just fine.

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2000 F-150 XLT, 4x2, 5.4L Supercab, Black with silver two-tone, 3.55, towing package, sliding rear window, keyless entry, dark graphite interior, in dash CD, bedliner, K&N air filter, cabin filtration system

[This message has been edited by Dustoff (edited 10-22-1999).]

 

One more question.

Here's the situation. I lost my PATS key. So now I go down to the dealer and they cut and program two more keys for me. Now I have a total of 3 working keys, right?

What if I somehow find the lost key? Will it still work?? If not,could I "reprogram" it? Or is it trash??

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• 1999 Super Cab XLT
• Windsor 5.4 complete w/ Piston Slap at no extra charge (Thank you very much)
• 3.55 Ratio L/S
• White/ Grey interior
  MODS
• Intake Silencer Removed
• LoJack Anti-Theft System
• Bug Deflector
• Aluminum Tool Box
• 2 Bull Ring Retractable Tie Down's
• Bed Mat
• Class III Receiver Hitch
• CCA Redfish Decal
• TTMB Sheepshead Decal

madams@ev1.net

 

That depends on how they programmed the two new keys. When you go into Security Access to program additional keys, you have the option to erase all key codes and program in new ones, or just to program and additional key. Since you lost your key, they should've erased all key codes and programmed in the new key codes. Which means your old keys will not work unless programmed again (which can be done with the two other keys you have). Most likely, they just programmed the two additional keys, and your old ones will still work. I only say this, because by nature, people are lazy, and it is 2 minutes quicker to just program additional keys, than it is to erase all codes and start from scratch.

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1997 F-150, 4.6, automatic, Dark Toreador Red, Supercab, Flareside, 4X4 Off-Road, Towing Package, Ford hvy dty rubber floor mats, Kenwood 10-disk cd changer, Kenwood am/fm cassette head unit, Ford bugshield, Chrome Grizzly Wrap Around Push Bar with 2 KC 100w Daylighters, Ventshades, Ford bedliner, Lund Premier tonneau cover, cab and bed professionally undercoated, Code Alarm Sure Start RVS remote starter, Ford alarm, Realistic CB with Wilson Little Wil antenna and Astatic power mic, ported MAF sensor, and Lots of TLC!! (Besides being an F-150 nut, I am a Ford auto technician.)

 

i have to say this site and the ppl who post here need praise for a wealth of well presented info. this forum has helped me understand the whole key issue. thanks
mvought

 

I only have one small thing to add to the wealth of good knowledge already posted here. To the poster who was worried about the auto start system, your PATS system "should" only be bypassed while the remote starter is running the vehicle. It should function normally the rest of the time. In the very early days of the transponder systems it was common to totally bypass everything, but there were quickly some very ingenious solutions to this. But, it is often still referred to as a "bypass", when in reality, it is a "integration" with the existing system. (usually the "integration" modules are quicker, easier, and much more reliable than the "bypass" methods, all very important features to most installers worth their salt.)