I have to confess: I've never worked on my own vehicles. I've owned a '87 Ford Ranger, a '92 Mitsubishi Eclipse, a '96 Toyota Tacoma, a '98 Mercedes-Benz C230, and now a '99 Ford F150.

The F150 has bitten me with the all-American, I-want-to-wrench-it-myself bug. I'm an educated guy . . there can't be anything under there I can't handle, with the right tools.

I'm looking to just do as much of the routine maintenance as reasonably possible (oil change, filters, other fluids, inspections, that stuff). I'll let others do the heavy lifting (tire rotations and the like).

Can anyone recommend any resources? I've already ordered the Haynes service manual from Amazon.com

Is the "Scheduled Service Guide" adequate? I notice that the maintenance in that guide is less rigorous than what the dealer recommends, but I'd think the dealer was just after the big bucks.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

I think the Hayne's manual will be the only thing you need. I have it and it has worked out well. It has all of the procedures listed, tools needed, the maintenance schedule and a bunch of other stuff. The pictures are good and it is easy to read and understand. I think it's better than the service guide in the owner's manual.

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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4, Regular Cab, Short-Bed, 4.6L V-8, 5-Speed, 3.55 Rear Gears, Dark Toreador Red




[This message has been edited by gearjammer (edited 09-29-1999).]

 

Yes that would be the first place to look but he has a 99 F-150 which means there is nothing in publication You might get away with using a 97-98 book for minor maint. but look real hard at the books and your truck before trying anything

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'99 F150 XLT SC SB 5.4x2
3.55 limited slip trailer towing package/slip on extender mirrors/powerstop brake controller
Harvest Gold
Covermaster 1000 topper w/ wing
BugflectorII

http://members.xoom.com/firezap/truckpage.htm



[This message has been edited by Firezap (edited 09-29-1999).]

 

I got the Haynes manual in today, less than 48 hours after placing my order with Amazon.com (amazing, really, since I didn't even request overnight or second day mailing).

At any rate, the manual looks great. Yes, I have a 99 but from what I understand there aren't that many differences. From a pure maintenance standpoint, I'd say it's close enough. I can use my head for the rest. Thanks.

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'99 XL 2x4 4.2L SC 5-Spd SC Black over Silver
Penda Liner, Chrome Tubular Step Bars, Prime Designs Bug Deflector

 

Doug: One thing I would recomend is documenting your work, dates ect. and keeping ALL receips of anything you put on or in the truck. That way if there is ever a warrenty problem Ford can't get out of doing the work. This is for your protection

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97F150 XLT SC 4x4 Flairside 4.6 V8 5sp Dk Toreador Red, 3.55LS
ARE tonneau cover, p255/70rx16 tires (came w/235), Superchip
Pioneer CD w/4 Polk Speakers & Clarion APA5240amp, skid plates
bed liner, side window deflectors, reese hitch, K&N air filter
40s-2chamber Flowmaster, Bosch +4 spark plugs, rustproofing
Better Built Stainless nerf bars

 

Thanks for pointing that out, Firezap. I don't read the important details as much as I should. Regardless, I think the only changes to the '99 are cosmetic. You should be ok with the one you have. Plus, if you run into any questions or problems, everybody here would be more than willing to help you.

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1998 F-150 XLT 4x4, Regular Cab, Short-Bed, 4.6L V-8, 5-Speed, 3.55 Rear Gears, Dark Toreador Red

 

Ok, I've got more questions:

I guess the best way to drain the oil completely is for the vehicle to be completely level, right?

Therefore, you can't simply jack up one part of the truck to make access easier: the whole thing has to be lifted, or you need access to a pit. I want to do it myself, not for the cost savings but just because I want to do it.

The Haynes manual mentions "Jack Stands," and these are relatively inexpensive. However, they all say "just lift one end of the vehicle", and therefore it wouldn't be level. I would think you would want to lift all four corners so that it would be level.

And yet another question: where's the jacking point in front? The Haynes manual refers to a "welded bracket", but I don't see it on my truck. What gives?

Do any of you lift the vehicle off all four wheels? That'd be great for do-it-yourself tire rotations and brake inspections as well, not just oil changes.

Any insight and wisdom would be appreciated.

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'99 XL 2x4 4.2L SC 5-Spd SC Black over Silver
Penda Liner, Chrome Tubular Step Bars, Prime Designs Bug Deflector

 

I have a 4x4 which helps cosiderably. I don't have any trouble sliding underneath with a creeper.The only thing you really need to get to underneath (at least on my '98, 4.6L) is the drain plug. The filter is in front of the left front tire (behind the mud guard). I'm pretty sure the 4.2L filter is underneath somewhere, though. Anyway, would you have any trouble getting underneath without jacking it up? If you can, I would do that instead of jacking it up. I wouldn't think it would hurt to jack it up, as long as you don't go too high.

As far as the bracket, I've never had to put mine up yet so I couldn't help you on that one.

[This message has been edited by gearjammer (edited 09-30-1999).]

 

Your 4X2 probably does not sit level when on four wheels, mine is about 2 or 3 inches lower in front than rear. That little bit probably won't help getting under, but look at the placement of the drain hole. I don't change the oil on my truck, but on my 86 mustang the hole is positioned at the rear of the oil pan so that when the front is jacked up the oil flows towards the hole.
Jeff

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1999 F150 Lariat
Reg cab Short box Styleside
5.4L 3.55ls
Deep Wedgwood Blue/Silver
Lund Interceptor hood shield, VentVisors, Class III hitch, Ford molded mud guards, soft tonneau, factory CD with changer (thanks Dusty), tinted windows

Menasha, WI

http://www.fortunecity.com/silversto...ton54home.html

 

Hey Doug,

I am a chubby guy and I don't need a jack to get under the truck. My belly rubs a little on the front bumper lower valance but once under there is plenty of room. I have a 4x2 by the way and the best way to do it I think is sliding under the front of the truck instead of the sides. I also have a slight incline on my driveway and I place the truck where it is most beneficial to oil drainage although it is impossible to get all of it out anyway. I did my last change in about 20 minutes and did not even get dirty. I also use one of those all in one drain/disposal pans. Have fun.

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'99 XLT S/C 4.6Romeo, Auto, 3.55 LS, Oxford White, Bla Bla Bla.....it's a nice truck except for this 60/40 seat, I hate it!!!!

ATTENTION: I AM IN DESPERATE NEED OF DARK GRAPHITE CAPTAINS CHAIRS AND CONSOLE IN EXCHANGE FOR MY PERFECT 60/40 DARK GRAPHITE SPLIT BENCH (WITH FOLDING ARMREST WITH CUPHOLDER AND POSITION LOCK) AND SOME CASH (DARK GRAPHITE COLOR FOR 99-00) I WILL COVER ALL COSTS. OR SEND ALL OF YOUR MONEY TO:

SEATS FOR SEACROW
BOX 1674
ONECO, FL. 34264
SO I CAN AFFORD THE DEALER'S PRICE ON THE NEW SEATS. LOL

 

Doug,

Our trucks are similar but I drive my 4x2 up on a couple of 2x8 boards just to gain a little more clearance to change the oil and filter.

One item to keep in mind while doing your own oil changes ...... pay attention to what you are doing. An untightened oil drain plug or oil filter leads to disaster very quickly.

Paying attention to detail is important .... clean the seating area for your filter and drain plug and coat the rubber gasket with a light film of clean oil, use a box wrench on the drain plug, not an adjustable wrench.

Otherwise, go to it!

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Dunbarton "The Middle Aged Kid" '99 XLT SC SB 4x2 4.6 auto 3.55 ls The occasional Z-71 Eater! Wedgewood & Denim, SuperChipped, Airaid FIPK, Rhino Liner, Mobil 1, leaky rear slider. Man, I got it all! (New Jersey)