I have an '89 F-150 XLT, 4x4, 5-liter, manual
transmission. In the past 3 or 4 weeks I have had a problem starting the engine. It turns over fine but just does not seem to get a spark. The next 3 or 4 days it will start without a problem, then, it'll do as before and not start again.

Could this be a problem with the ignition module and if so is it difficult to change? If it is not the iginition module, what are some of the other possible reasons for the problem?

Jack

 

I feel bad, because I know whats happening and I can quite get it out of the back of my head!

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1999 Ford F150 XLT 4x2, Cloth Seats, Amazon green, 16" All season tires, Soft Tonneau Cover, CD Player, 4.6 liter Triton V8, 3:55 ls, towing package, 4 speed auto, K&N Airfilter
Future Mods:
1)Superchip
2)Airbox Mod
3)Flowmaster Exhaust

Fast46Triton

The Terminator!

 

Have you tried changing your distributor cap and rotor? What about moisture in your distributor? I had a 5.0 liter in an '83 Mustang GT and both of the above caused similar problems to what you are describing.
I hope this is of some value:-)

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MarkS
1999 F-150 XLT, 4x4, ORP, SC, SB, 5.4 Liter, 3.73ls, Husky Truck Box, Westin Chrome Nerf Bars, TOFF Spray-in Bedliner, FORD Blue-Oval Hitch Cover, & Superchip.



[This message has been edited by MarkS (edited 07-14-1999).]

 

When it's in one of it's non start days, when you try to crank it does it make a grinding noise? Or any kind of noise's???

 

Thanks for the replies! Here's more info:

I changed the distributor cap, rotor and spark plug wires about 2 weeks ago. I've had the problem both before and after this change.

During those times when the engine won't start, there are no unusual noises and I don't smell any gas. I've always made sure that the clutch was pressed all the way!!

Thanks for helping out...hope someone can come up with something.

Jack

 

I'm not expert mechanic, actually I'm not even a mechanic but I have had your problem on vehicles before. I know, I'm starting with the basics but those are the easiest. It could be a number of things but an engine needs three basic things to run - fuel, air and spark. On the occasions when it won't start have you tried taking one of the plug wires off and inserting a spare to see if it sparks? Also, what about the fuel rail? Is there gas going through it? I don't know if I have been any help - probably told you things you already know or have tried.

I feel for ya. Intermittent problems are the worst. Good luck!

 

Daws: Well it does sound like you have some kind of electrical problem. Like a loose or broke wire that is making contact occasionally. It could be your ignition switch or your starter relay. I think the starter relay is under the hood, on or near the firewall, near the battery. Have you got any mechanic friends??? This is about all I know about this aspect of the engine. Let us know when you get this fixed and what it winds up being.

 

You mentioned making sure the clutch was all the way in, I'm assuming it has a contact switch that won't let you start it without the clutch being in. You might check the switch.
If you've got fuel pressure ALL the time, it's probably ignition. You could replace the coil (or have it checked first) or try this: on "non start" days have somebody tap the ignition module with the handle of a screwdriver while you're trying to start it, it MAY have a bad connection internally.

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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B.
5.4L, 3.55 LS
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone
Mods: A leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust
Otherwise, bone stock.

 

Hey Mark S.
I had the same car, LOVED IT, that 302 was bulletproof. Ah yes, the day's of the 4BBL carburetor ... sigh.

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1999 Lariat Super Cab, S.B.
5.4L, 3.55 LS
Bright red w/ gold 2-tone
Mods: A leeetle chrome tip on the exhaust
Otherwise, bone stock.

 

If the truck is turning over when it doesn't start I dont think it is the clutch switch. Most of them won't even turn over without that being tripped.

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'97 F150 Lariat, Flareside, SC, ORP, 5.4, Mods: 305/70/16 GY ATS, AR Baja wheels, dual exhaust, Smittybilt nerf bars, fog light mod and Big Bird mirror toy.



[This message has been edited by kkirt1 (edited 07-15-1999).]

 

Here's one of those little ones that might help someone. Could be moisture, but the old question of what to do. There's a product called LPS sold at some hardware & autoparts places. There are 4 kinds, one being a water dispersant, that's the one you want. I had someone try to submarine a Triumph Spitfire I used to own (water washed over the top of the engine when he hit a 12" puddle), it had standing water in the bottom of the distributor. I sprayed this stuff around inside the distributor & cap, reassembled it and drove it out. It's worth keeping on the shelf in case you need it. It's great stuff.

 

Daws,

The first things I would look for are loose electrical connections or corrosion at the coil (primary and secondary side). You've already replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and wires which is good. You can purchase a spark tester to test each wire. It is a sparkplug with the grounding attached with an alligator clip. The sparkplug is attached to a good source of ground and you can actually see the state of the arc across the plug gap for each wire end. If you've got a bright blue/white arc, you've probably got a fuel/air mixture problem. I'd check for a disconnected or leaking vacuum leak.

 

Thanks for all the advice. It's been about 3 weeks since I was in here and I have not had a problem starting the truck in all that time. I've been waiting for it to go "haywire" again, but damn it, it keeps on starting!! If anything happens and I find something definate, I'll be sure to let you all know.