Adjust timing or chip it?
Adjust timing or chip it?
I wasn't going to modify my truck at all because I didn't like it too much, but now that I got the fan fixed, the truck is literally amazing and I love it!
I went to a local Ford Performance shop here in town and I was asking about a chip. He told me if I let them adjust the timing, not only would it be cheaper (he said like 20 bucks) but it would be comparable to what a chip does.
What do you think?
Pete
I went to a local Ford Performance shop here in town and I was asking about a chip. He told me if I let them adjust the timing, not only would it be cheaper (he said like 20 bucks) but it would be comparable to what a chip does.
What do you think?
Pete
Timing changes and a chip are two different things. Timing changes will help the truck, but a chip can also alter quite a few other things. Shift points, fuel delivery, timing, delays, etc.
Don't pay someone if you want to do the timing. Buy a cheap timing light and do it yourself. For that matter buy a Haynes or another cheap reference book and borrow the timing light or get a loaner. Either way, if you're short on funds get a cheap light and we can tell you how to do it. It's really a simple procedure and you'll have another useful tool around.
Neither will rip you out of your seat, and you'll find people that like both approaches. The chip will deliver more, but it will cost in initial purchase price plus the added operating cost of burning premium gas all the time. Timing is free, but won't firm up your shifts or alter fuel delivery the way a good chip will.
I run 14 degrees on my truck, with regular gas.
Don't pay someone if you want to do the timing. Buy a cheap timing light and do it yourself. For that matter buy a Haynes or another cheap reference book and borrow the timing light or get a loaner. Either way, if you're short on funds get a cheap light and we can tell you how to do it. It's really a simple procedure and you'll have another useful tool around.

Neither will rip you out of your seat, and you'll find people that like both approaches. The chip will deliver more, but it will cost in initial purchase price plus the added operating cost of burning premium gas all the time. Timing is free, but won't firm up your shifts or alter fuel delivery the way a good chip will.
I run 14 degrees on my truck, with regular gas.
Yep, do the timing advance first or have someone else do it, $20 isn't that bad, enjoy that for awhile, then get the chip if you can afford stupid unleaded forever. I don't have a chip because I already have a car that requires super and don't want another. My 5.0 is at 14 degrees also, no ping on regular unleaded, I'm gonna try 15 and 16 some day to see if I can squeek alittle more on regular unleaded.
Timing changes kind of freak me out. The questions that I'd have before I do it are:
1) what kind of gain would I get from it? (Fuel Economy meaning would it be better or worse, speed, acceleration and maybe even a different engine tone?)
2) Whats this valve pinging? It doesn't sound like something I'd want to do too much. The guy I talked to said He'd advance it to about 12 degrees. What would that be like on my 351?
3) I could use regular gas still with timing right? I don't like the chip because gas is expensive! lol
4) Should I go to 14 like you guys, or should I go to 12 as was recomended by the mechanic? I want to do this myself.
Thanks,
Pete
1) what kind of gain would I get from it? (Fuel Economy meaning would it be better or worse, speed, acceleration and maybe even a different engine tone?)
2) Whats this valve pinging? It doesn't sound like something I'd want to do too much. The guy I talked to said He'd advance it to about 12 degrees. What would that be like on my 351?
3) I could use regular gas still with timing right? I don't like the chip because gas is expensive! lol
4) Should I go to 14 like you guys, or should I go to 12 as was recomended by the mechanic? I want to do this myself.
Thanks,
Pete
Hey Pete, fear not, timing is not voodoo! Ford from the factory tends to be conservative with intial timing mainly for emissions reasons (typical 9-10 degrees). You may safely advance your timing up to 14-16 degrees initial depending on your particular engine, gas quality, and elevation (above sea level). I would start with 14 and drive the vehicle, if you experience no pinging (detonation) advance it more. If you start to experience pinging under acceleration or working the engine hard, back off timing a degree or two until it stops under those conditions, that's it! Both 302's and 351's respond well to timing advance, just keep in mind that the quality and octane rating of fuel can be a limiting factor to how much advance you can attain. Also high altitude can limit you as well due to lower oxygen content, but unless you are in "mountain goat land" (like above 4000 ft) this shouldn't be an issue. By the way, pinging is caused from detonation, a nasty thing that can over time destroy your engine. It occurs when the air-fuel mixture explodes violently in the combustion chamber rather than slowly burning as in normal combustion. No ping, no problem. As far as improved fuel economy, well that depends on how heavy your right foot becomes after discovering the little extra grunt you'll have after advancing the timing, it won't snap your neck, but you should feel it in the seat of your pants. Oh yea, don't forget to disconnect the spout connector before doing the timing or you will not get correct readings with the timing light. All this is covered in any Haynes or Chiltons repair manual for your truck. Now go get dirty and advance that timing!!! Remember, happiness is enjoying the results after greasy finger nails and busted knuckles!
Originally posted by Fast Pony
Hey Pete, fear not, timing is not voodoo! Ford from the factory tends to be conservative with intial timing mainly for emissions reasons (typical 9-10 degrees). You may safely advance your timing up to 14-16 degrees initial depending on your particular engine, gas quality, and elevation (above sea level). I would start with 14 and drive the vehicle, if you experience no pinging (detonation) advance it more. If you start to experience pinging under acceleration or working the engine hard, back off timing a degree or two until it stops under those conditions, that's it! Both 302's and 351's respond well to timing advance, just keep in mind that the quality and octane rating of fuel can be a limiting factor to how much advance you can attain. Also high altitude can limit you as well due to lower oxygen content, but unless you are in "mountain goat land" (like above 4000 ft) this shouldn't be an issue. By the way, pinging is caused from detonation, a nasty thing that can over time destroy your engine. It occurs when the air-fuel mixture explodes violently in the combustion chamber rather than slowly burning as in normal combustion. No ping, no problem. As far as improved fuel economy, well that depends on how heavy your right foot becomes after discovering the little extra grunt you'll have after advancing the timing, it won't snap your neck, but you should feel it in the seat of your pants. Oh yea, don't forget to disconnect the spout connector before doing the timing or you will not get correct readings with the timing light. All this is covered in any Haynes or Chiltons repair manual for your truck. Now go get dirty and advance that timing!!! Remember, happiness is enjoying the results after greasy finger nails and busted knuckles!
Hey Pete, fear not, timing is not voodoo! Ford from the factory tends to be conservative with intial timing mainly for emissions reasons (typical 9-10 degrees). You may safely advance your timing up to 14-16 degrees initial depending on your particular engine, gas quality, and elevation (above sea level). I would start with 14 and drive the vehicle, if you experience no pinging (detonation) advance it more. If you start to experience pinging under acceleration or working the engine hard, back off timing a degree or two until it stops under those conditions, that's it! Both 302's and 351's respond well to timing advance, just keep in mind that the quality and octane rating of fuel can be a limiting factor to how much advance you can attain. Also high altitude can limit you as well due to lower oxygen content, but unless you are in "mountain goat land" (like above 4000 ft) this shouldn't be an issue. By the way, pinging is caused from detonation, a nasty thing that can over time destroy your engine. It occurs when the air-fuel mixture explodes violently in the combustion chamber rather than slowly burning as in normal combustion. No ping, no problem. As far as improved fuel economy, well that depends on how heavy your right foot becomes after discovering the little extra grunt you'll have after advancing the timing, it won't snap your neck, but you should feel it in the seat of your pants. Oh yea, don't forget to disconnect the spout connector before doing the timing or you will not get correct readings with the timing light. All this is covered in any Haynes or Chiltons repair manual for your truck. Now go get dirty and advance that timing!!! Remember, happiness is enjoying the results after greasy finger nails and busted knuckles!
What exactly does engine ping sound like? Is it loud, and would I for sure notice it?
I'm going to buy the manual and light tomorrow. I can't wait for this! Lol
Which manual is the BEST for this particular operation? Do different ones cover it better?
I'll start at 14 and if it is ok I'll be happy!
Thanks again,
Pete
I would say go with the chip. It does so much more than just advancing your timing will. It was defiantely one of the best mods I have done, its a toss up between that and the new exhaust. Well as far as gas, after using the chip I get get about 2-3mpg better than I did before, and I drive the truck harder, and even though I am using premium, I am making a few cents everytime I fill up, because my mpg improvment out weighs the $.18 difference in gas.
Trending Topics
Pete,
Haynes covers it fine, and I'm sure Chiltons does to. It's really as easy as disconnecting the SPOUT (easy to find) and turning the distrubutor. There is only one bolt, the distrubutor hold down, and this only needs to be loosened and not removed.
The SPOUT is easy to find. Look near the ignition control module (should be on the driver side inner fender near the rear) and there will be a pink wire with a small shunt in it. All you have to do is pull the shunt out before setting the timing.
From there simply shoot the light at the marks and put it where you want it. I always scribe a reference mark on the distibutor base and the block for stock setting. That way I could change back quick if I needed to.
Haynes covers it fine, and I'm sure Chiltons does to. It's really as easy as disconnecting the SPOUT (easy to find) and turning the distrubutor. There is only one bolt, the distrubutor hold down, and this only needs to be loosened and not removed.
The SPOUT is easy to find. Look near the ignition control module (should be on the driver side inner fender near the rear) and there will be a pink wire with a small shunt in it. All you have to do is pull the shunt out before setting the timing.
From there simply shoot the light at the marks and put it where you want it. I always scribe a reference mark on the distibutor base and the block for stock setting. That way I could change back quick if I needed to.


