Fuel pump info
Fuel pump info
I've got a dieing fuel pump in my front tank so I'm going to attempt to replace it my self. Has anyone done this or could any provide a good description on what to do? I beleive I have all of the neccesary tools.
Just simple labor. I had to drop and replace my rear tank due to rust causing a hole.
Once the tank is down it has a simple lock ring. Make sure to get a new one, they are thin and easy to destroy when taking them off.
I haven't done the front, but the biggest problem on the rear was getting to the fuel line connections with the tank still part way off. They don't leave a lot of slack so you might have to rest the tank on some blocks and get your arms in there somehow.
Other than that the only problem I had was one line. I had the crappy plactic tool. Called my buddy and he came over with his metal tool and got his butt kicked also. Different type of metal fuel tool popped it off the first time. Lesson learned - they are cheap buy 'em!
It is simple labor for the most part. Snaking the fill tubes between the frame rails and such was a PITA, but nothing too bad.
Once the tank is down it has a simple lock ring. Make sure to get a new one, they are thin and easy to destroy when taking them off.
I haven't done the front, but the biggest problem on the rear was getting to the fuel line connections with the tank still part way off. They don't leave a lot of slack so you might have to rest the tank on some blocks and get your arms in there somehow.
Other than that the only problem I had was one line. I had the crappy plactic tool. Called my buddy and he came over with his metal tool and got his butt kicked also. Different type of metal fuel tool popped it off the first time. Lesson learned - they are cheap buy 'em!
It is simple labor for the most part. Snaking the fill tubes between the frame rails and such was a PITA, but nothing too bad.
cool thats for the info...so if I understood you correctly the fitting to get the fuel lines off of the tank are different then the fuel filter fittings? I"ve got the metal tool for the fuel fittings...is the tool needed for the tank fittings similar?
i think taking off the bed is its own bitch but does make life easier but i had to replace my tank (i only have a rear mount) and he is right those lines are a bitch! but i had the plastic tools too and had to walk to the store and buy them cause my tank was halfway on the ground but the lines on top of the tank are the same coupling style that is on the fuel filter but much harder to get to so lets hope you have some little arms and hands you should do just fine the hardest part other than the lines was getting the spare off
hmm, looks like only 6 bolts and the bed is off....might go this route then...but than again I was blessed with my mothers arms so that might make it easier than taking off the bed.
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The problem with taking off the bed is the ever present risk of scratches, dents, and dings. It's not light either (always take off the tailgate though!). You have to take off the other fuel fill tube, and undo the tail lights. you have to pick it up about 12" off the frame and walk it out the back of the truck. My guess is four guys. I did it with 3 on an old beater of a truck, but wouldnt reccomend it if you dont want those dings. Getting to those fuel lines is tricky, but better to knock around a gas tank then your bed.
Originally posted by spaceman12321
course you guys have those girly short beds LOL,
JK
course you guys have those girly short beds LOL,
JK
Anyways I'm just going to drop the tank...it's the front tank so I don't have to worry about taking the spare off or anything.
Thanks guys.
I did it in my last 93 F150, it too was the front tank. It was a breeze to drop the tank. I dropped it and replaced the pump and reinstalled it in under 2 hours. Only downfall was the tank was full of OLD gas...
Pump was only $144.00 from Autozone.
Justin
Pump was only $144.00 from Autozone.
Justin
Thank you Justin for saying that! No really I needed that because everyone was making it sound so hard and bad(on other sites too) so I was putting it off...so thanks!
Sprocket,
On my truck the tank fittings were two different sizes. If I remember correctly the smaller fitting was the same size as the fuel filter fitting..... 5/16 or 1/4" I think.
I know the line tool I had to get for the stubborn one is a 3/8" tool. Anybody know the size of the filter line tool?
I'll post a pic if I get a chance. The tool make a complete 360 around the line. The metal one with the slot wouldn't work so if you have to buy one get the one like I got. I'll get you a part # and name..... and Pep Boys had both kinds.
On my truck the tank fittings were two different sizes. If I remember correctly the smaller fitting was the same size as the fuel filter fitting..... 5/16 or 1/4" I think.
I know the line tool I had to get for the stubborn one is a 3/8" tool. Anybody know the size of the filter line tool?
I'll post a pic if I get a chance. The tool make a complete 360 around the line. The metal one with the slot wouldn't work so if you have to buy one get the one like I got. I'll get you a part # and name..... and Pep Boys had both kinds.
Justin,
I went to autozone and for 10.00, purchased their fuel/AC line disconnect tools. They are plastic and one line used the red one and the other used the blue. I just wiggled my arm around the dirty tank and disconnected them. Not hard, just dirty and you can't see much, so close your eyes and envision what you are doing.
I took the nuts off the straps a little at a time to lower the tank evenly. I used a floor jack to rest the tank on. Once you get the nuts (two) off the straps, you can remove the straps and then lower the tank.
The fuel line from the filler is two rubber hoses. One is an outer sleeve. I disconnected the three bolts that hold the filler in the fuel door and the worm clamp on the inside of the bed. This allowed me to move the tank down to the ground without disconnecting the fuel filler line.
Once the tank is on the ground under the truck, use a flat head screw driver and a mallet and knock the twist ring to unlock the cap (just line up the notches with the tangs). Removal is not hard, just watch the float gauge. It can get bent real easy. You will unscrew a few bolts that mount the pump to the unit, and replace your new pump on the unit. You will have to "splice" the new wiring from the new pump to the old housing unit. Your pump should come with shrink wrap, but I was told to use cremp on fittings and not to apply heat to the fuel area. I agreed and used cremp on fittings to splice the wires.
When reinserting the pump, make sure you have it lined up just like you took it out, You can bend the float or get it turned around and it will not read 100%. Not hard, just watch what you are doing.
Reapply the lock ring, and hoist the unit back on the floor jack and put it back in place. I had the wife at this point help he, she just made sure the tank would not roll of the jack while I reinstalled the straps...
Make sure you have the straps back in the factory place on the tank, and if you have some of that tar or something similar to help reduce metal to metal friction, it can wear a hole in the tank.
Easy, and I wish you luck....
I went to autozone and for 10.00, purchased their fuel/AC line disconnect tools. They are plastic and one line used the red one and the other used the blue. I just wiggled my arm around the dirty tank and disconnected them. Not hard, just dirty and you can't see much, so close your eyes and envision what you are doing.
I took the nuts off the straps a little at a time to lower the tank evenly. I used a floor jack to rest the tank on. Once you get the nuts (two) off the straps, you can remove the straps and then lower the tank.
The fuel line from the filler is two rubber hoses. One is an outer sleeve. I disconnected the three bolts that hold the filler in the fuel door and the worm clamp on the inside of the bed. This allowed me to move the tank down to the ground without disconnecting the fuel filler line.
Once the tank is on the ground under the truck, use a flat head screw driver and a mallet and knock the twist ring to unlock the cap (just line up the notches with the tangs). Removal is not hard, just watch the float gauge. It can get bent real easy. You will unscrew a few bolts that mount the pump to the unit, and replace your new pump on the unit. You will have to "splice" the new wiring from the new pump to the old housing unit. Your pump should come with shrink wrap, but I was told to use cremp on fittings and not to apply heat to the fuel area. I agreed and used cremp on fittings to splice the wires.
When reinserting the pump, make sure you have it lined up just like you took it out, You can bend the float or get it turned around and it will not read 100%. Not hard, just watch what you are doing.
Reapply the lock ring, and hoist the unit back on the floor jack and put it back in place. I had the wife at this point help he, she just made sure the tank would not roll of the jack while I reinstalled the straps...
Make sure you have the straps back in the factory place on the tank, and if you have some of that tar or something similar to help reduce metal to metal friction, it can wear a hole in the tank.
Easy, and I wish you luck....
Thanks Justin I printed your reply out as directions, and notified the g/f she's going to be getting dirty
Thanks signmaster, I already bought the metal fuel line fitting remover...it's got 2 sizes on it but I don't know what they are. I know the smaller size worked for getting the filter off.
Thanks signmaster, I already bought the metal fuel line fitting remover...it's got 2 sizes on it but I don't know what they are. I know the smaller size worked for getting the filter off.


